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Customer Questions and Answers for Thermistor Kit by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM12027516
Manufacturer Part Number: 12002355

The Thermistor Kit is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators and freezers. This component plays a role in monitoring and controlling the temperature within your appliance. A thermistor is a type of resistor whose resistance changes with temperature changes, allowing the refrigerator's control system to accurately maintain the desired cooling levels based on the readings it provides. 

Causes of a bad thermistor can include wear and tear from constant use, exposure to extreme temperatures that can damage the component, or electrical issues such as short circuits.

Symptoms of a bad Thermistor Kit include:

  • The refrigerator or freezer is too cold or not cold enough
  • The appliance cycles on and off more frequently or for longer periods than normal
  • Unexplained changes in temperature settings

This OEM Whirlpool part can also be used on Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore/Sears brand appliances.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Thermistor Kit (Part Number: OEM12027516)

1 Answer

Reggie, at 50°F the resistance should read 199K ohms, 40°F should read 266.8K ohms, 30°F should read 343.5K ohms, 20°F should read 445.8K ohms, 10°F should read 616.3K ohms, 0°F should read 815K ohms, and -5°F should read 968K ohms.

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1 Answer

Paul, Yes, the thermistor is located in that area by the damper. I will send you a sheet of disassembly.

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1 Answer

Kristen, you may have a bin sensor issue or a control issue. If you could provide the model number for your appliance, this will allow for the most accurate information to be provided.

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1 Answer

Brian, what you will want to do is to check the freezer section to make sure nothing is blocking air flow to the refrigerator. From there, you will then want to check to see if the damper is opening and letting air flow through. If you open the refrigerator door and press the door switch in, the lights should go off and everything should be running air through. If there is no air flow, then you will want to check the freezer evaporator to make sure that it is not congested with ice and then do an operations check on the fan assembly. The evaporator fan should be rotating.

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1 Answer

Amanda, First, remove power to the refrigerator, Clear and remove the top shelf(s). Squeeze the tabs on each side of the clear light cover /lens and pull the cover down to release it from the holding tabs. Remove the light bulb, Use a flat blade screwdriver to release the 4 tabs, insert the the blade into the slots and carefully pry out on the retainer clips. Use a clean or taped putty knife to carefully pry along the front edge of the housing, to release it from the front of the cabinet liner. Once out, disconnect the wiring harness from the cabinet wiring and set the assembly aside. Cut the wires at the thermistor and unclip the thermistor. Splice the two wires from the replacement to the cut wires and reverse the procedure.

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1 Answer

Rob, I sent you a tech sheet to test the thermistor in the refrigerator and the damper. Make sure the damper opens and closes. The thermistor reads the temps and tells the control what it needs,[more cooling or not]. And the damper supplies freezer air to cool the area.

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Leonard for Model Number MFW2055YEM01

We've been dealing with a regular frosting up of the rear wall and coils in this bottom freezer Maytag. As the coils frost up it eventually reduces air flow to upper fridge. What surprised me was this: I placed a bluetooth thermometer in the fridge area. Every 3-4 hours the temp spikes (good because the cycle is working) -BUT- each after defrost cycle the fridge temp is a bit higher! After about 6 days the inside temp is up to 50 degrees! This happens in steps between the defrost spikes in temp. It's only on the last day that the frost is severe enough to hit the fan in the freezer! Is a part cutting off the defrost cycle too early??

1 Answer

Leonard, you have a defrost problem where the heater is not coming on and melting the ice that forms on the evaporator, it is either a bad heating element or defrost control board, you can ohm out the heater but more than like likely you will need to replace the main control, part number is W11035836

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1 Answer

Jack, If you grab the light shield you would pull it toward the rear of the unit. Then on the backside of the control there are 2 slots you put a flat blade screwdriver in and push the clips for the control to drop down.

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1 Answer

Rodney, If the freezer is icing over it would be recommended to make sure that the freezer door seal is sealing properly. If it is not then check for a issue with the rails for the freezer drawer being damaged.

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1 Answer

Hello James. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the evaporator coils in the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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