Vindobonau June 05, 2013 for Model Number RSD2000 My side-by-side Maytag was suffering typical symptoms of defrost cycle failure: refrigerator stopped cooling and then ultimately the freezer stopped freezing. I pulled the panel off the back, coils were frozen solid. I verified that the timer was advancing on its own. I pulled the thermostat and ohmed it in a glass of ice water. No continuity. So I purchased a new thermostat locally, because I wanted to get it fixed right away. I decided to ohm the new thermostat before attempting to install it and was dismayed to discover that it also shows no continuity no matter what temperature it's at. I can test it at room temp, float it in ice water, or freeze it solid in a cup of water. The ohm meter never budges, flickers, or otherwise shows any indication that it detects anything. It's a new digital ohm meter and it does detect continuity in other things (for example the metal serrated edge of an aluminum foil box). It's set to 200. Is there something I'm not understanding about what an ohm meter should show with a functioning defrost thermostat?? Is it really that likely that a brand new thermostat would be bad from the get go? I admit I'm not that savvy about electrical stuff, however I am usually quite mechanical/techie in other ways, so if anyone can at least verify I'm on the right track with troubleshooting this problem, I would really appreciate it. Thanks much!
1 Answer Hello Vindobonau. Set to 200 is ohms test, not continuity test. You need to read the manual sent with the meter and find the continuity beep test. When set to this, if closed, the meter will beep. Then use that test for the thermostat. Read More...
Matt Manz May 24, 2013 for Model Number CNNS208KA We recently had a power surge which impacted our Norge fridge. It was getting cold only at the bottom of both compartments. I replaced the evaporator fan motor and both compartments are now good and cool, but the unit keeps running and not shutting off. Could the thermostat in the freezer also be bad, or maybe the defrost timer?
1 Answer Matt, Wouldn't expect the defrost timer to be at fault, the unit wouldn't cool at all were that the case. There's a remote possibility that the timer contact could be stuck and the heater and compressor could be on at the same time, but that's not all that common. Make sure the interior light goes out when the door is closed and the door closes and seals properly. Remove the light shield, and check that the freezer control damper opens and closes and the assembly is not blocked with ice. Check the shelves, make sure there are no articles hanging over the edge, against the walls blocking the air flow. Check the freezer back wall for a build up of frost or ice on the wall, this would indicate a defrost issue. Read More...
Chuck October 23, 2012 for Model Number radiant , heater HI. I was wondering about how long it would take to recieve and also how much shipping cost would be if I ordered your radiant heater for my RSD2000D REFRIG. Thank you.
1 Answer Hello Chuck! The radiant heater is part number WP61001846. Please see the following link to view the available shipping options. Thanks! http://www.appliancepartspros.com/customerservice/shipping.aspx Read More...
Mark December 05, 2011 for Model Number RST-2200 Maytag side by side refigerator What is typical root cause of defrost heaters burning out? I replaced heaters 2 years ago and it looks like they are out again. Can these " big resistors " be burned out if too much voltage is applied to them? How much voltage should I read when the defrost cycle is "on" ?
1 Answer Hi Mark. On your maytag model the defrost heaters have red or orange caps that the wire pass through on each end of the glass enclosure. The issue is that they upgraded to a different type of rubber end that seals against the glass and still remains flexible. The newer style are a gray color. Is it possible that you had replaced it with the older style? They are a fragile part. Since they are a dual type of element, the upper melting ice will drop off onto the top glass of the lower placed one- if- they are not properly clipped in place with the top of the element covered so the water drips on the metal cover first and off to the side missing the heater altogether. They may have been placed incorrectly - thus failing prematurely. The defrost timer part # WP68233-3 passes the 120 vac to the defrost thermostat. As the thermostat is closed below 14°, it will pass the voltage (120 vac) to the heater. Usually the defrost closes the neutral side of the power. The 120 vac supply positive is at the other side of the heater awaiting the completed circuit (neutral feed). The Defrost thermostat is part # WP52085-29. It may have sticky contacts and only feed a partial supply. of voltage starving the element. If you test the element and the heater they need to be a closed circuit or 0-ohms. In defrost ,the timer will give 120 vac on the orange wire feed to the thermostat and the brown wire to the heater. Thank You. -- Read More...
Rodney October 15, 2011 for Model Number MAYTAG RSW22A side by side Fridge &Freezer not cooling. Defrost heater 24ohms,defrost therm.0-ohms unless in high scale. Would like to know if therm. is within specs?
1 Answer Hi Rodney. If The back wall of the freezer is frosted up you will need to replace the defrost heater part # WP61001846. Defrost thermostat part # WP52085-29. Defrost timer part # WP68233-3. Are the fans running as the compressor is running? Thank You. Read More...
Mac October 09, 2011 for Model Number CS20Y6A My freezer won't defrost. About every 3 or 4 weeks I unplug the unit for 10 hours then plug it back in and it works for 4 more weeks then I have to unplug it again. I replaced the defrost timer but that didn't help. think it might be the defrost thermostat ...?
1 Answer Hello Mac. Test the heaters WP61001846 see if they read closed for continuity. If not, you will need to replace the heaters. Hope this helps. Read More...