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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Thermostat (Bi-Metal) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030144
Manufacturer Part Number: WP61005254

This defrost thermostat is the temperature limit switch for the evaporator. It lets the defrost heater run when coils are icy and opens as they warm to end the cycle, helping stop frost buildup and restore steady cooling.

  • Monitors evaporator temperature; closed when cold to allow the defrost heater to energize
  • Opens as the coil warms to terminate defrost and protect components from overheating
  • Failure may cause heavy frost on the back wall/evaporator and weak airflow or a warm refrigerator section
  • Can also lead to long run times or cooling that returns only briefly after a manual defrost
Includes: One defrost thermostat Install notes:
  • Unplug the refrigerator or disconnect power before servicing
  • Located behind the freezer's rear panel on the evaporator; remove shelves/ice bin and panel to access
  • Reinstall in the same position/clip for firm contact with the coil or tubing
  • Make secure, insulated wire connections and route wiring away from sharp edges and moving parts
Troubleshooting tip: At room temperature the thermostat should read open (no continuity); when chilled below freezing, it should read closed (continuity).

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Thermostat (Bi-Metal) (Part Number: OEM18030144)

1 Answer

Hello Mike, There are only three components in the defrost circuit not counting the wiring harness. On this model, I would say you probably have either a bad defrost heater or a bad defrost thermostat. The defrost timer is the other component. You can use the defrost timer to assist you in the diagnosis. If you look straight up at the control box, (ceiling of the fresh food compartment), yo should see a hole that has a large plastic screw looking device in it. If you use a small screwdriver in this hole and turn it clockwise, you will hear it clicking as you turn it. It will then make a loud click. If you stop at this point, you have forced the unit into defrost. This will put voltage to the defrost thermostat. Testing at the defrost thermostat, you should read 120Vac on both sides of the device. If not, the defrost thermostat is at fault. If so, the defrost heater is open. If there is no voltage on either side of the defrost thermostat, the points in the defrost timer are at fault. Once you have found the device at fault, you can go ahead and defrost the unit with a hair dryer. This will cause the unit to cool properly for about 5 to 7 days normally while you wait on the part. When you receive the part and put it in, you will need to defrost the unit again because the defrost cycle can only melt away the amount of frost build-up between normal defrost cycles. Not defrosting the unit will cause an air circulation deficiency that you will most likely notice in you milk, (milk will spoil quicker than normal without the unit cooling at full efficiency).

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1 Answer

Dan, With the defrost timer in the defrost mode, you should read 120 VAC from blue(#3) to white (#1) this is power in, and from yellow(#2) to white(#1) this is power out, to the heater 120 VAC. The defrost thermostat, should have a closed circuit below 38 dgrs.F. and an open circuit above 38 dgrs. ( put the thermostat in a glass of ice water for a few minutes then check the circuit). The heater element should have a resistance reading(approximately 20 to 30 ohms, on that unit), it sounds more like a defrost timer issue, based on your post.

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1 Answer

You can test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat with a multi-meter. Both of these should read closed or 0 for continuity. If one is open, then that is your bad part. If both are closed then you have a bad timer.

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