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Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Thermostat (Bi-Metal) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18030144
Manufacturer Part Number: WP61005254

This defrost thermostat is the temperature limit switch for the evaporator. It lets the defrost heater run when coils are icy and opens as they warm to end the cycle, helping stop frost buildup and restore steady cooling.

  • Monitors evaporator temperature; closed when cold to allow the defrost heater to energize
  • Opens as the coil warms to terminate defrost and protect components from overheating
  • Failure may cause heavy frost on the back wall/evaporator and weak airflow or a warm refrigerator section
  • Can also lead to long run times or cooling that returns only briefly after a manual defrost
Includes: One defrost thermostat Install notes:
  • Unplug the refrigerator or disconnect power before servicing
  • Located behind the freezer's rear panel on the evaporator; remove shelves/ice bin and panel to access
  • Reinstall in the same position/clip for firm contact with the coil or tubing
  • Make secure, insulated wire connections and route wiring away from sharp edges and moving parts
Troubleshooting tip: At room temperature the thermostat should read open (no continuity); when chilled below freezing, it should read closed (continuity).

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Thermostat (Bi-Metal) (Part Number: OEM18030144)

Liz Again for Model Number MTB1956BEW

Hi. Its me again. I posted about the Maytag refrigerator back on 6/3/14 and 6/4/14. Well the condenser motor fan was fine so I tried to find someone to give me a quote on a new compressor -- long story why I am trying to keep this fridge going. Any way no luck so I was about to pay $800 for a new fridge and decided instead to give a try to taking the freezer back apart myself and see what I see with the idea of replacing just the defrost thermostat. I took all the food out and unplugged. When I pulled away the back panel, there was solid ice built up all around the defrost thermostat in the upper right hand side - it was covered solid with ice ball that was about the size of 1/2 a large grapefruit. There wasn't any ice built up on the evaporator itself. It was high up so I am not sure how water would have collected and froze up high in the corner like that. I am letting the fridge sit over night and when the ice is all melted, I was thinking I will replace the defrost thermostat. Does it sound like it might be something else based on this new info?

1 Answer

Hello Liz, The ice ball is formed when there is insufficient Freon in the sealed system so this condition is normally caused by a low Freon charge.

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Liz Again for Model Number MTB1956BEW

Hi I am the one with Maytag issue posted on 6/3/14. I will check as you suggested, but want to offer some add'l info. So last night before bedtime I checked the Freezer and the fan in the back has stopped and the back wall of the freezer was warm - almost giving off heat. I am thinking the evaporator coil heater maybe was on too long??..Could that be the problem? It is heating up the freezer which is why it isn't staying cold enought to freeze the stuff in it? This morning the fan in the freezer was working again and blowing cold air. The fridge was still cold last night during all of that and is cold this morning. Would this additional info change your diagnosis?

1 Answer

Hello Liz. It is suppose to get warm on that wall during a defrost cycle. You need to check the fan motor suggested and clean the condenser coils if they are dirty.

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Liz for Model Number MTB1956BEW

My Maytag started acting up last Fall. I had a technician come. He spent all of 10 mins and told me the compressor was going bad. I was skeptical and as the weather outside got colder the freezer seemed to work better. Ice cream with still soft, but ice and other stuff was firm. The fridge continues to keep stuff cold and in a few times we have had stuff freeze on the back top shelf of fridge. Now that that weather has warmed up, the Freezer is doing the same thing again. Now the ice maker makes the ice, but it all freezes together in the bin. And other food is not staying frozen. The fan in the freezer is blowing cold air and the compressor is humming along (no change in noise, etc). I have an odd space for replacing the existing fridge and would rather try to change out a few parts before I throw in the towel! If I replaced this fridge, I would have to get a smaller one due to the opening measurements. I have a second fridge in the basement so I have a little flexibility on time to experiment.

1 Answer

Hello Liz. Check and make sure the condenser fan motor 833697 is running on the unit. If not, replace the fan motor. If it is running, then you do have a sealed system failure and will need an HVAC tech.

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1 Answer

Charlene, If the fan in the freezer is not operating then you will want to check to make sure that there is 120 vac going to the fan. If there is then the fan is faulty and would need to be replaced. If the fan is not getting 120 vac and the compressor is running then either the defrost timer or the thermostat is faulty and would need to be replaced. You can check the blue wire going to the fan to chassis ground and if there is 120 vac then the issue would be in the defrost timer.

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1 Answer

Tom, Temperature has nothing to do with the voltage. There should be 120 VAC into and through the entire circuit. (unless the defrost thermostat is an open circuit, due to it being warm). There should be 120 VAC into the thermostat on the blue wire, out of the thermostat on the white wire, into the heater, through the heater and at the yellow wire out of the heater to the defrost timer, as long as the temperature control is a "closed" circuit and the refrigerator is cooling. With the voltages you posted, there's a loose connection or damaged wire in the harness. The neutral portion of the circuit is accomplished through the yellow wire(terminal 2) and white wire(terminal 1). Do all of the voltage checks to chassis ground, on all the connections, this will verify wether you have a loose connection, or and issue in the neutral circuit at the timer. Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Dan. If the thermostat WP61005254 is not closed and passing voltage to the heater, yes it is bad and needs to be replaced in the unit.

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