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Customer Questions and Answers for Cold Control by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18019401
Manufacturer Part Number: WP2200859

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Cold Control (Part Number: OEM18019401)

Sean D. for Model Number ET18NKXFW04

I noticed the ice cube trays in my freezer have melted and the refrigerator would not feel as cold as it should be. I cleaned the coils underneath and cleaned the compressor/fan area as well. There are no blockages, no ice build up, evaporate fan is working normally. The refrigerator control would get stuck sometimes but I am not sure if it is the plastic knob sticking or not as when I removed the control it would turn fine. I am not sure what the problem is. It seems as it is just not getting cold enough.

1 Answer

Hello Sean, If both fans and the compressor are running and there is no frost build-up on the rear freezer wall you could have a sealed system issue. You should remove the rear wall of the freezer and check for an even frost pattern on the evaporator coils. If there is an iceball or the pattern begins halfway down the evaporator coils, there is either a Freon loss, a sealed system restriction, or you have an inefficient compressor. In any of these instances, a Freon certified technician will need to be contacted to complete the repair.

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1 Answer

Bryan, This issue sounds like the unit is sticking in defrost causing it to warm up. This will most likely be caused by a faulty defrost control board WP2304099.

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1 Answer

Roman, You may not need a part at all. First check and make sure both doors are closing and sealing properly, Check and make sure the temperature control is set in the mid range area (4 or 5) and check the end of the temperature bulb hasn't been knocked loose or dislodged from the holder on the back of the control panel. When you open the freezer door, make sure you can hear and feel the evaporator fan motor running and the air flow is moving fast enough. Check the freezer back wall for a heavy build up of frost or ice on the wall, this could indicate a defrost problem.

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Dominic for Model Number Kitchen Aid KTRP21K

We use this as a 2nd refrigerator in the basement. Its only on only a few days a year for holidays or parties. It was purchased new in 2001. The problem is it takes the fridge about 2-3 days to get to 38 degrees. The freezer is working fine. The motors are all running OK and only cycles on and off once the fridge gets down to temperature. I use a few buckets of ice in the fridge to help cool it faster. Once the fridge stabilizes it hold the temperature and it cycles normally. I don't want to order parts in the blind but I'm leaning towards the cold control #AP6006464. I dropped the top panel and took a look at it and it looks like an easy DIY repair.

1 Answer

Dominic, It is good that you are putting ice in it to help it get down to temp but also put some in the freezer to help as well. If the unit is in a basement that is overly hot then it would take longer for it to cool but it does sound like it would be a cold control issue that is causing this to occur. You could also put some jugs of water in the refrigerator to help hold the temperature.

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Glenn K for Model Number ATB2232MRW01

The freezer cycles to defrost too often. I had repair service come by and all they did was replace the fan and motor. I filled ice trays on Sunday night and on Monday morning they were partially frozen with temp in freezer around 38. When I returned from work, ice trays were in same condition. later in the evening the temp was 28 and it is still 28 this morning. I believe the defrost switch may be giving me trouble, but should I replace the cold control and defrost timer also? I already sank 200 into fan replacement and though I would replace the next part myself.

1 Answer

Hello Glenn. That is not a defrost issue. The problem is the sealed system on the unit. You will need an HVAC tech to come out and repair the unit.

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Schau7 for Model Number ET18GKXGW02

Hello. The freezer is fine but the refrigerator is not cold enough. Already took apart the freezer section to check for ice - none found. Also, the fan in the freezer section is running. Kept seeing on the Internet that I should check the damper next. However, I do not know how to access the damper. I could not find a picture nor video about dampers for my particular refrigerator model. Manufacture date of my frig is Oct 1998. Is it too old to try fixing? Thanks for your advice.

1 Answer

Hello Schau7. Turn the freezer down to the middle setting. This will open the damper so the lower section can cool. If freezer is turned up, it turns off air to the bottom. Damper is attached to the freezer control.

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Marcf for Model Number whirlpool ER2CHMXPL04

I have an issue with my refrigerator being too warm. There is also some condensation making shelves wet, and water dripping from vents but this may be the condensation. Freezer seems to be OK. When I took the back panel of freezer off (after one hour after the defrost cycle) I noticed that only a small section of fins freezing over, not the whole grid. I don't know if it should all have frost after 1-hour? The condenser is also very hot to the touch... normal? Wondering if I have some switch or thermostat going bad. Wondering what parts I can try replacing. Any thoughts?

1 Answer

Marc, All your descriptions and information would lead us to believe you have a sealed system failure. Within 10 to 15 minutes of starting the refrigerator, there should be an even build up of frost on the complete evaporator coil in the freezer. Any area without frost would indicate a restriction in the system or a loss of refrigerant. The condenser coil will be very warm or maybe slightly hot, this is where the heat from the system is exchanged so it'll be warmer than room temperature, but not extremely hot unless there's a system failure. To test or repair the refrigerator, you'll need a certified refrigeration technician with the proper tools and equipment to test and repair the sealed system properly.

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1 Answer

Keith, The cold control will operate the entire unit. You will want to check the evaporator fan motor in the freezer to see if it is running. Check the drain in the freezer behind the wall to make sure that it is not clogged and subsequently causing water to get into the air ducts causing them to freeze. Check for a defrost system failure. If coils are impacted with ice check the heater and the thermostat to make sure that they are good. You would check them for continuity. If there is no continuity then you would replace the part. If both check ok and the coils are impacted with ice then the defrost timer is faulty.

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Jenn for Model Number ET1CHKXKQ03

My refrigerator is cycling on and off, but stays off for too long, when I tap the control box the compressor comes on, but goes off within a minute or less (when I don't tap it and allow it to finally come on on its own, it runs for longer). Fan is working in freezer, cleaned the coils underneath the fridge, and a repairman told me the coils were good in the freezer. I do feel some air blowing into the bottom from the top via the vent. It gets cold just stays around 50-60 in the bottom, top goes back and forth from freezing to not. Is this the part that I need to replace? Thanks.

1 Answer

Hello Jenn, I would replace the start device WP2225929 on the compressor because it sounds like either a poor connection or a bad overload.

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