Customer Questions and Answers for Timer by Whirlpool

Bryan, You will want to check the thermostats to make sure that they are good and check thermal fuses. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

Hello Kevin, From the description of the issue, the timer WPW10185982 will need to be replaced to correct the problem.

Hello Bill. If you ordered the timer listed above, you ordered the wrong timer. You need part number WPW10185971. Thank you.

Vicki, It's probably not a timer or heat issue. You didn't supply a model number so we're not sure of what "type" dryer you have. You will want to check inside the tumbler area for a sensor assembly, check to make sure the metal sensor bars are both present and clean them off using rubbing alcohol or similar non flammable cleaning solution. If the bars are coated with debris or residue from the softener sheets, softener or certain types of detergent, it stops sensing the moisture in the clothes and the dryer will shut off early.

Travis, If there is no light in the unit you will want to check the power supply to make sure that there is 120 vac at the wall where the unit is plugged in. If there is then check where the power cord comes into the unit to make sure that there is 120 vac where it connects to the unit.

Tommy, When testing for a possible timer failure in which there is no heat then you would want to disconnect one wire off the heater. If able to take the one that goes to the thermostat loose. You will then turn the dryer on and test from the disconnected wire with one lead and then touch any metal surface with the other to complete the circuit. If there is 120 vac then this means that the timer is sending power through the thermostats and to the heater. If there is not power then you will want to test each terminal on either of the thermostats to ensure that they are not bad. If you find power on one side of the thermostat but not on the other then the thermostat is faulty. If there is no power getting to the themostats then this will be a timer issue. If there is power at the disconnected wire, you will then want to take the lead off that wire and touch it to the elements empty terminal. If there is not 120 vac then touch the other terminal on the heater that still has the wire connected. If there is 120 vac at the wire that is still connected but not at the terminal with no wire then this would be a bad heater. If there is no power at either location then this would be a faulty motor. The motor has a switch in it for the heater that is built in and cannot be replaced separate of the motor.

Adam, You will want to check the venting of the unit to make sure that the venting is clear, which is the primary cause for long drying times. If the venting is clear then you will want to check the heating element to make sure that it is not grounding out to the housing.

Hello Heath, This sounds more like the shift actuator WPW10006355. You should be able to locate the tech sheet in a plastic zip lock bag fastened to the inside of the front main panel. This will instruct you how to run a diagnostic model that will give you the fault codes. This will point you to the problem circuit.

Rob, If the timer was in the on position and you are testing red to black you should have 240 vac. If not then test from black to white on the timer for 120 vac. If there is 120 vac present then test the thermostats for continuity. If they have continuity then they are good. Also test the thermal fuse for continuity. If this checks ok then test the heater for continuity and check at the heater by disconnecting 1 leg and testing the disconnected leg for 120 vac and the connected leg for 120 vac both to ground. If there is voltage to ground on both legs then the issue will be the heater. If there is not then trace back to the point of origin for the wire that does not have 120 vac and that would be the part to replace.

Scott, There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad and if there is 120 vac then the heater would be the issue. If there is 120 vac at each point then the heater is faulty.