Jimmy Dudley March 23, 2020 for Model Number WED4800XQ3 on my dryer the timer switch is bad, part # is 3979618. i habe a switch part# 3976576 that looks almost like it, will that switch interchange!!
1 Answer Jimmy D, I am sorry but these parts are not interchangeable, the mfg. part# WP3979618 is our part# WP3979618 Read More...
Steve January 08, 2019 for Model Number wed4800xq3 Timer on Whirlpool model WED4800XQ3 has a white jumper wire connecting the W and BY terminals. It looks like a factory constructed jumper but is not shown anywhere on the wiring diagram. Wiring diagram shows an optional "guard switch" but does not show any wires connected to any of its terminals. This model has no guard switch on the control panel, only buzzer on-off/push to start, temperature control, and timer switch. I'm wondering if it caused a brand new non OEM operating thermostat from China to malfunction and melt down like a welding rod with sparks and flames shooting out of it.
1 Answer Steve, if your model does not have the wrinkle guard setting on the timer, I would go ahead and move the jumper wire to our new timer. Based on the wiring diagram, it closes the open switch from BY to W, without the jumper, there would be an open circuit. Read More...
Paul October 05, 2018 for Model Number WED4800XQ1 On my old dryer timer there was a white jumper wire that went from white to ? Where does it plug into? Timer P/N 3979618 This machine does not have the WB(white/black) or the BY(black/yellow) wires coming to the timer
1 Answer Paul, According to the wiring diagram the white wire would run to the 5M on the motor. We are showing there should be a BY and a WB. Read More...
Rcubed April 18, 2015 On old timer there was a white jumper wire that went from white to ?. Where does it plug into? P/n 3979618
1 Answer Rcubed, To properly assist you we will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx Read More...
Pedro February 21, 2015 for Model Number LER8620PW1 What causes the heating element to keep burning? I've checked the thermal cut off fuse thermostat, and it still burns the coils within the heating element.
1 Answer Hello Pedro, This is usually caused by the heating element 279838 being shorted to ground. The centrifugal switch in the motor 279827 being stuck in th4e closed position can also cause this. Read More...
John January 28, 2014 for Model Number Whirlpool LER8620PW0 My dryer will start and run ok, but the timer will not run, it just stays where you set it and runs continuously. Am I right to assume this is the timer motor gone bad, or should I check a few more things before ordering a new timer?
1 Answer John, If you place the timer dial in the timed dry selection area and start the dryer, if the dial doesn't advance in a few minutes, then replace the timer WP3979618 . If the timer doesn't advance in the "auto dry" selection(s), then this is an indication of a heating issue, and you'll need to check the exhaust venting and vent hood for clogs, kinks and restrictions. Read More...
Jeff November 11, 2013 for Model Number ler8648lwo My dryer cuts off after a few minutes of running. You can start it back up again without having to wait for it to cool down. I've cleaned the vent and disconnected it. still having problem. Then I removed the vent chute from the back and cleaned it out. problem still exists. I've tested the cycle t-stat on the blower chute. It ohms out at zero for the red wires which are the bigger wires. The purple wire which are the smaller wires ohm out at 7.3 ohms. according to the other guy on the chat line is should have some resistance. I've tested the hi-limit and the thermal cut -off switches, on the heater chute, also and they zero out. I've checked the door switch just in case but it was at zero ohms also. Any other ideas on what the problem could be? While typing this I changed the setting of the temp switch to medium instead of high and it's staying running. Could it be the temp switch or is it a thermostat going bad? Thanks Jeff
1 Answer Hello Jeff. Either a wiring issue, or the house hold breaker is failing. You will need to check both. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Billy H April 10, 2013 for Model Number LEB6200KQ0 I have replaced the heating element and thermal fuse and hi limit thermostat and still unable to get any heat out of my dryer.
1 Answer Hello Billy. You will need to trace the power for the heater and see where you are losing the power at. This will determine the bad part on the unit. It can even be the timer or the motor causing the no heat issue. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Al December 12, 2012 for Model Number whirlpool # LEC9000PWO My electric dryer stopped in mid cycle. It seems that the start switch is working fine but I do not have a manual for the dryer so I trouble shoot the system. Any suggestions?
1 Answer Hello Al. You need to test the thermal fuse WP3392519 and the door switch WP3406107 on the unit. Both should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Wesley M October 12, 2012 for Model Number WED5700SW0 My dryer will not start at all. I have checked all of the switches, thermal cutoffs, thermostats and wiring. I believe it might be the timer. I have checked between terminals T and W. According to the schematic this should be the contact that supplies power to the start circuit for the motor. It ohms out at around 2K ohms. Being a contact I would think that it would be much less. I ohmed the drive motor start circuit and it was 2.6 ohms. (in tolerance according to schematics). Is it a safe bet that the timer needs to be replaced? Can I jumper the tan wire from the "T" terminal to the white wire from the "W" terminal to see if the motor will run? I put a jumper on these wires and it ohms out at 3 ohms. I wasn't sure if that was enough to put power to or if 3 ohms would effectively be a short.
1 Answer Wesley, You checked the neutral leg of the motor circuit. The power leg at the timer is BK to BU, through the start switch and thermal fuse to terminal 4M on the motor . The timer contcts on both checks should be "closed" circuits(with your meter set on the lowest resistance setting). To jumper the tan and white wires will close the "N" circuit, you'll also have to jump the BK to Bu wires to get 120 volts down to the motor and press the start button, for the machine to start. You may want to start at the blue wire on the motor with the start switch jumped and power to the dryer, no 120 VAC to chassis ground, check blue wire and components, back up to timer until you find the voltage. If you have the voltage then check 5M termianl and wire for voltage, no voltage faulty motor winding, if voltage OK, will need to trace white wire back up to timer until voltage found. Thanks Read More...