James March 18, 2022 for Model Number GFG464LVB1 The broiler is turning itself off. When observing the flame we notice that in the area of the igniter/flame sensor, the flame is detaching itself from the burner and flickering all around the burner which causes the flame sensor to turn it off. This detachment is only in the first several inches of the burner. Also the entire burner flame seems to be too intense with a lot of long yellow tips. Checking the bake burner, everything seems normal with nice blue flame about 1" long. Is it possible for the gas valve to be faulty and supply a higher gas pressure to the broiler than to the bake burner? As a side note, both burner air shutters are set wide open.
1 Answer Hello James, the oven door needs to be closed for broil on this model or the control will turn off the burner after a few minutes. the burner air shutters are full open if on LP gas and 3/4 open for Natural gas. Check for any obstruction in the orifice by removing the burner tube first also check if anything has gotten into the burner tube. The pressure regulator is the same for all the burners. Read More...
Will October 10, 2021 for Model Number GS563LXSB0 Good afternoon! I have a problem with my Whirpool oven (working on L.P.) model GS563LXSB0. My oven stop working suddenly (it was working fine), I also notice the broil feature doesn´t work neither anymore. When I try to start the oven I only hear 2 clicks but no flame or spark are visible. I´ve replaced the oven spark igniter...same thing (and the broil doesn´t work or makes any sounds at all). The 4 burners on top are working perfectly fine still. What could be causing the oven problem: the gas valve or the oven spark module?
1 Answer Will, with the bake cycle turned on, the spark module WPW10331686 will need to be tested at connection J1 pin 6 for 120VAC. If there is voltage, the DSI spark module has failed. Read More...
Darvin March 08, 2021 for Model Number Whirlpool MOD. GFG461LVB1 Replaced Gas Valve WPW1093048 after oven burner failed to ignite, even though oven ignitor worked correctly, and surface and broiler burners worked normally. After installation of new Gas Valve WPW1093048 oven burner ignited with long yellow flames, causing CO2 alarm to be triggered, while surface burners and broiler burner show reduced volume of flame. Can these conditions be corrected by adjusting the bake valve orifice at their various locations? Is it possible that the gas valve is defective?
1 Answer Darvin, Based on the information provided It sounds as if the bake valve gas and air mixture should be adjusted for proper flame height and color. Read More...
Saba May 21, 2020 hi,i just bought a used whirlpool gas range and when I connected the gas line and turned the gas valve on (main valve that is sticking out the wall)oven started flowing the gas like crazy and I didn’t even touch anything,everything was off.burners,oven,everything.you could smell the gas in the whole house.i quickly put the gas valve off and open the door and waited half hour and tried again and same thing happened.it sounds like the gas line is not connected to anything inside the oven and is just open,so once you turn the main gas valve on,gas starts flowing into the oven with all the pressure in the pipe.any idea what part has failed in the oven that I’m facing this issue?thank you
1 Answer Hello Saba, this would be considered a safety problem , suggest you turn off the gas supply to it until a service technician is able to check this appliance first, it could be a part problem or a leaking gas line. If a part is needed we will need the model number to find the correct part. Read More...
Jay April 11, 2020 for Model Number jlad09@gmail.com I am trying to fix a Whirlpool gas oven (SF362LXTB1). The stove top works and the broiler works but the oven baker wasn't working. The oven baker igniter would click 4 times and gas would come out but it wouldn't spark. I can see the spark for the broiler. I could manually light the baker because gas would still flow but then it would go out after about 5 seconds. I replaced the bake igniter (Whirlpool OEM Part #WP9758079) with a new part but that didn't solve the problem. I can still hear clicking 4 times and the gas flows but I still don't see a spark and it doesn't ignite. I am now able to light it manually and it will stay on for longer than 5 seconds. Do I need to change the spark module? Or the wire that is connected to the baker igniter? Or something else? Thanks!
1 Answer Jay, Please reask your question and include the model/serial information for research purposes. Read More...
Lance October 10, 2019 for Model Number SF362LXST0 Oven not lighting on bake or broil. Burners work perfect. On bake I can hear the control relay click, but no ignitor click. On broil I can hear control relay click, ignitor clicks 2-3 times but does not light. No gas smell either way. Tested gas valve with wires off, from center to bottom pins with infinite ohm reading, center to top pins 205 ohms. Is this the correct pin measurements, there are no 1,2,3 markings on the pins. I am assuming the gas valve is bad, but wanted to make sure I am measuring the correct terminals.
1 Answer Lance, the valve WPW10293048 has failed as each resistance reading should be 216 ohms of resistance from the middle terminal to each of the other terminals. Read More...
Tom October 09, 2019 for Model Number Whirlpool GS470LEMB2 Hello My oven will not work. the top burners work, the oven igniter is not sparking but has continuity and I do not hear any gas coming out. do I need to replace the gas valve or the igniter?? thank you for the help. Tom whirlpool GS470LEMB2
1 Answer Tom, on your model, the spark module located in the console, is what controls the spark for the top burners and oven burners. If the igniter is not sparking in the oven and you have checked for continuity on the oven igniter wire, you will need to replace the spark module, the part number is WPW10331686 Read More...
James June 29, 2019 for Model Number AGR5844VDW1 The Oven (Grill & Broil) and the 4 cook-top burners all worked well until a couple of months ago. 1st we noticed the cook-top burners had a large "lazy" flame and the cook-top was hot to touch. The oven also ran hot externally. Removed the cook-top and noticed flame coming out the side of the burner through the air inlet hole. It appears as though the gas pressure is too high. Called the gas company, there has been no change to the gas or the pressure. Suspect the Valve Regulator (5761959) is not regulating the gas pressure. Is it possible to adjust the pressure? There is almost no restriction on air passing from the input to the cook-top output port as I blow into the input port. When air is sucked out of the small brass cap hole and the hole block-off, the valve shuts off. The valve then slowly turns on as air flows into the brass cap hole. Is the regulator faulty, please?
1 Answer Hello James, from your description, it does seem to be a gas pressure problem as the cooktop and oven burners are affected.. But you did not say if the stove is on Nat or LP gas supply. The pressure regulator can only be set for either Nat or LP gas supply. The test for the correct gas pressure going to and coming out of the stove's pressure regulator requires a Manometer. You may want to have the gas supplier do a pressure check at your home at this point. Read More...
John May 12, 2019 converting from ng to lp. oven burner has red flame and the co alarm goes off. opened the burner orifice all the way down but still no blue flame. do i need a new regulator?
1 Answer John, If you have changed your orifices but have not flipped the nut over on the regulator this is the result you will get. When you remove the cover you should see lp stamped on the side facing you. Read More...
Bass March 08, 2019 for Model Number WFG361LVQ2 When I set temperature to 375 when starting up it will go to about 450, and then it usually starts correcting itself and goes back to 375 but not always. It also makes a whistling sound when only oven is on when gas is going in it. I've checked the sensor and the control board looks good, I don't think it's the safety valve because it always starts right up and never goes out. thanks for any help.
1 Answer Bass, for the whistling, you may want to check the burners to ensure that none of the gas ports are clogged. For the temperature, you can test the sensor [WPW10181986] for resistance and it should read 1080 ohms resistance at room temperature. If it does not read accordingly then you would need to change out the sensor. If it does read accordingly, then the main control [WPW10424330] may be the issue. Read More...