Skip to Content
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • lovely images 15 million satisfied customers
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

Sale
Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM9282771
Manufacturer Part Number: 279838

Restore full heat and end long dry cycles - install the Whirlpool OEM Dryer Heating Element.

Why this heating element?

  • Factory-spec 5400 W / 240 V heating element with nickel-chromium coil - built by Whirlpool to Whirlpool OEM standards.
  • Broad compatibility: fits Whirlpool, Kenmore 110-series, Roper, Estate, Amana, Maytag & more 27-inch dryers.
  • Built to last: high-temp terminals & mica insulation resist fatigue and hotspots.

Fixes these common dryer problems

Problem How the element solves it
No heat / cold drum Replaces burned-out coil to restore heating circuit
Takes forever to dry Full wattage brings drum back to target temperature
Stops mid-cycle Prevents over-cycling caused by faulty element
Burning smell New coil eliminates hot-spot arcing & insulation burn


DIY install — about 20 minutes

  1. Unplug dryer and remove back panel to access heater housing.
  2. Disconnect wires; remove housing screws and slide assembly out.
  3. Swap old element for new, re-use hi-limit thermostat if still good.
  4. Re-assemble, run test cycle - enjoy fast, even drying.

More
$53.95
Compare At:
$64.74
You Save:
$10.79

IN STOCK
Ships Today Guaranteed
Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM9282771)

Richard

My electric dryer is a Whirlpool model WED4900XWO. On your site it shows it is compatible with your heat element model AP3094254. My dryer is a little over 6 years old. I have removed the heat element. Watching your video it shows the element has three terminals that wires connect to. My old unit has the 3 terminals, however only two wires are connected to it, one the top terminal and one on right as you face the unit. On the left terminal no wire, and I see no unused wires on my dryer, but the terminal does have a clip that fits on the terminal. My old model number is 3403585 and it looks exactly like your pictured on line. I watched your video and had no problem removing the old part. Just concerned about that missing 3rd wire??

1 Answer

Richard, You do have the correct heater element assembly for the model number you supplied. There are a few differences between the models and versions of machines that aren't mentioned or viewed in the video. In your case, you have a dryness control board and drum sensor, so your machine does not have the orange wire attached to the thermostat. In some cases the hi limit thermostat(s) do not have the metal jumper tab that attaches to the element terminal as in the video, but there will be a red "jumper wire between the thermostat and the element connections. At this point, you've done everything correctly and should be fine for a while. Thanks

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Lee, The thermal fuse opens when it gets too hot so you should check for any crimps or restrictions in the ducting from the back of the dryer to the outside of the house. This is what normally causes the thermal fuse to fail and will cause the replacement to fail soon after replacement.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Jerome, The dryer will heat up anytime it is on and set to a heated setting.

Read More...

1 Answer

Juanita, The average temperatures for a Whirlpool built dryer are: Low temp. 120 dgrs.F. Medium temp. 140 dgrs.F. and Hi temp. is 155 dgrs.F. (+/- 10%) . As long as the dryer venting and vent hood are clear/clean, The vent length is within factory recommendations, and the lint filter is clean before the start of the cycle the exhaust temperatures should be in the ranges specified.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Lete, If the model number is actually LEQ9030PQ1, you will need to check the following parts: Timer, Thermal cutout, Cycling thermostat, hi-limit thermostat, Heating element, the centrifugal switch in the motor assembly and the wiring harness. This should be done after verifying the dryer has 240Vac at the terminal block where the cord connects to the unit. The thermal cutout, cycling thermostat, and hi-limit thermostat should all read continuity when tested with an ohm meter. The heating element will show a resistance somewhere between 10 and 40 ohms if good and should read no continuity to ground. If these test good, you will need to pull a wire loose from the heating element and make sure it cannot touch ground and re-connect the dryers' power supply. Start the dryer on a heated cycle and test for 120Vac on the wire and test for 120Vac on the terminal it was disconnected from. The side that has no voltage will need to be followed back to either the motor switch or the timer. The component that it leads back to (timer or motor) will have to be replaced to correct the issue.

Read More...

1 Answer

Ken, You will want to check the thermostats and make sure that they have continuity. If they check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Gerald, the part in question is referred to as a heating element. This part is what is used in your electric dryer to create heat, hope this helps!

Read More...

1 Answer

Leticia, Yes, the 279838 Heater Element Assembly, could be the problem, and quite often is. There are several other possibilities. You may want to check and reset the breakers at the fuse panel, sometimes, one of the breakers will "trip" and the dryer will run, but won't heat. Once you remove the heater assembly, if the element is in tact and not broken/burnt then you'll need to check the thermostats, and wires.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store