Samsung DC97-14875B Washer Spider And Shaft Assembly OEM Part

Luckily happen to be walking by when machine started to make "grinding" noise as washer tub started to hit plastic tub. Assuming by shutting down machine, prevented any more damage. Aside from noise, when we opened door, tub appeared "crooked" tilted back a lot further then normal. When we removed the rubber door seal, could spin drum and hear and see the wobble and grinding. Internet told us the possibilities and so we proceeded to break down the machine. A drill with Philips bit and socket driver adapter makes breaking machine down exponentially faster. (Some good pics as you go and Dixie cups labeled for each all the screws also helps)... Hardest part is getting tub out, it requires two people as one needs to support tube while other undoes support springs. After that unscrewing tub and to get to Spider and shaft was easy. The arm was broken in two places. Also order the six bolts as they also will be destroyed. Part were here in two days (with regular shipping and delivered on a Saturday!!, appliance partpros were amazing). We used water proof grease (found by faucet repair in your box store, get at least 2 containers) to lube new shaft and rubber gasket when putting tub back together, also took opportunity to do complete maintenance, lube shocks, we cleaned out all the drain hoses, sprayed all connections with contact cleaner, etc... (The machine will be stripped down to just the metal frame.) Then two people to put tub back in and then its a one person job after that. Hardest part was actually getting bolt thru shocks lined back up, due to angle inside machine. All in all, about hour and 20 minutes with some time spent figuring out what screws went where.. (you think you will remember, but you won't)... need to label for sure... Machine works like new, no noise, no vibration, perfect...

My washing machine was making a loud thumping sound and bouncing around a bit. Research suggested that it could be bearings and/or the spider shaft assembly. After watching the instruction videos to replace the spider or bearings, I seen you need to replace both the shaft seal and tub gasket to get to the spider and bearings. So I ordered both and waited for them to arrive. Plan was to disassemble the washer, determine what was needed, order the additional parts needed, and reassemble after the additional parts arrived. If no parts were needed, I could just reassemble the washer without waiting for the seal and gasket. The gasket and seal arrived about a week later (used the slow shipping). I verified other parts I thought I might need were in stock before disassembling the washing machine. Then I proceeded with the repair so the down time would be minimal. Several things that I found and did that may help others. 1) I moved the washing machine out to my garage where I had room to work all around it and a place for the parts as they were removed. 2) I used my iPad to play the instruction video as I worked, stopping and starting as needed. 3) My model was different than the one in the video but it was easy to work around any differences. 4) I used a magnetic parts tray to place the screws in to keep them separate and in order. I could have used something like an egg carton. It helped a lot for reassembly. 5) When I tried to take the front panel off, I found out there are two additional screws in the bottom tabs the front panel sits on that had to be removed prior to removal. My washing machine sits on a pedestal so they were easy to get to otherwise I would need to tilt the machine to get to them. 6) Getting the tub springs off was a challenge at first. Height, since the washer was on a pedestal and the little loop at the top of the tub allowed only two fingers. I found if I stood on a step stool and used a length of nylon strap (A belt would work) I could loop the strap through the tub loop then lift and pull the tub toward me, the tub would rise and rotate toward the spring making it easy to remove (and to reconnect the springs later). Gently lower the tub. Went to the other side and did the same thing. 7) I used a plastic crate (sort of like a milk crate) to place the tub shaft side down on so I could take the tub apart. The video used wood blocks. 8) The drum came out easily and I placed it on a rubber mat (sort of like a welcome mat) open side down to prevent damage to the tub. 9) The back of the drum was covered with a lot of crud so I cleaned it using water, screwdriver, and a wire brush. Found that my spider and shaft assembly had cracks. Also part of the spider had eroded away. Checked all the other parts and found the bearings were okay and the front shocks appeared iffy. 10) I think the banging and jumping was caused more by the crud buildup and the erosion around the spider causing an out of balance condition. The spider and shaft still felt solid. Since the spider was eroded and cracked, I opted to replace the spider, as it would have failed in the near future. Ordered a new spider, the recommended spider bolts, and front shocks and used 2 day shipping. All arrived 2 days later. 11) I sprayed penetrating lubrication several times on the spider bolts and left it overnight. I used a 12 point box wrench and the bolts started to round off so I used a 6 point socket. I broke 4 of the 6 bolts trying to get them off. So ordering new spider bolts was a great idea. With the bolts out and the broken ones, the spider was easy to remove from the tub. No problem installing the new spider with the new bolts. 12) I ordered the front shocks because there was a 1/4-inch play in them (no resistance). The new ones had the same 1/4-inch play but seem to have slightly more resistance so I used the new ones. 13) The shaft seal was worn so replacing it was needed. The tub seal appeared okay but replaced it as I did not want leak issues. The tub reassembly was easy. Getting the tub into the washer was a bit awkward due to size, weight, and positioning it. Easier with two persons but I was able to do it by myself. Reattaching the springs was easy using the strap through the tub loop method. 14) Reinstalling the door boot seal outer ring was difficult for me using the locking pliers as shown in the video as it kept slipping off. I ended up starting the wire as shown and using a Hunter sprinkler adjustment tool I had. Once I had the wire inserted clockwise up to the 2 o'clock position, I used the plastic side of the sprinkler adjustment tool to hook the wire and just rotate the wire in place while holding the wire at the 6 o’clock with my other hand. It was a lot quicker and easier than using locking pliers. Overall, the repair was not difficult.

Per google and this site, the symptoms of the machine were identical to what was described for a corroded / broken spider. I followed the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFXp2X99mQs and took apart my machine. It wasn't the exact model, but more than 90% of the instructions and parts were the same. If you've done any type of work on cars (changing brakes, oil change), you should be able to do this without any problems. You'll need a ratchet set, screw drivers, and some deep sockets for your ratchet. The hardest part was moving the machine (its heavy) to make space to work. Then getting the tub out and then back in (its the heavy part of the machine). Our machine was 7 years old and was really dirty inside from the mold and apparent usage of too much detergent. Originally we thought we only had to worry about mold on the gray rubber seal / gasket. But the tub was moldy too. For detergent, apparently, you should only use half of what is recommended. So, even if it recommends a full scoop for HE washers, use half of that. If you're using powder, make sure it dissolves well in water. Sometimes it only dissolves well in hot water. Other than the weight, disassembling and reassembling the machine was easy. We spent a good amount of time cleaning the machine, tub, and all hoses which I definitely recommend. Going forward, I will likely use affresh washer cleaner (sold everywhere) once a month, and also install a fan in the vent. There is a company that sells fans for front load washers, but it seems way over priced for what it is. I will likely use a USB computer fan. Also, wipe down the rubber gasket after every load, never leave clothes in the washer (try to take it out right away), leave the door open a bit, and finally, use a small self powered dehumidifier EVA-DRY at home depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Eva-Dry-333-4-6-oz-Mini-Dehumidifier-E-333/202847328

First indication something was wrong when the washing drum starting to violently bang against the inside of the washer while in spin cycle. Then, when I opened the washer door, a misty smoke came from the inside. With the video from Appliance Parts Pros, disassembly of the washer was no problem. First, I replaced the four shocks on the washer drum. But, after a test run, determined that it was spider arm assembly. Again, the series of instructions made getting to the part fairly easy. The few things I would advise on is first that the 19mm nut in the back of the washer drum will be extremely difficult to take off. The video instructions say to use a small screwdriver to secure the drum from spinning in the back. But, unless you position the screwdriver exactly right, you run the risk of damaging the plastic housing of the motor. Second, once you replaced the assembly and have the whole thing put back together, run the machine on a rinse and spin cycle. There may be some residue or build up in the drum that may be washed away during the first cycle or two. Be prepared the drain the water pump after the first test run to manually clean out anything the pump cannot handle. When the cycle switches from rinse to spin, just watch the water level in the drum to see if the water is being pumped out. The washer will try to drain a few times. If the water level does not go down, drain the water pump and check for a clog. Other than that, just make sure to follow the sequence of events to disassemble and reassemble the washer.

I went online to see how to replace the belt in my washer using my model number as a search. After some research, I found that this model does not have a belt. It's driven by something called a stater and a spider arm assembly. I watched a video on my exact model repairing the spider assembly which was posted through appliancepartspros.com. I'm not sure why I chose this video, but so happy I did...dumb luck I guess! Once I took the back of the machine off, one of the first steps was to remove the locking bolt. This was my first hurdle. The model in the video had a nut, mine had a bolt. (So the model was very close, but not exact) When I tried to remove the bolt, it would not budge. I called a technician on this website looking for some suggestions. She was great and gave me some troubleshooting tips on how to check to see if the spider arm was broken without having to remove it, but unfortunately couldn't help me get the bolt out. She did offer that the schematic she was looking at couldn't show if maybe it was reversed threaded, and that gave me something to think about. While I had the back open, I noticed a shock had come apart, and given the difficulty of removing the bolt, I fixed the shock and hoped that was my culprit. After running a light load I still had a serious wobble in the drum, plus the drum was rubbing against the rubber door boot pretty bad. We called it a day, I watched the video again, and the next day we decided to see if we could see anything else, so we began again. This time I tried to remove the bolt going reverse, and actually got it to move a little, then after working it back and forth for a while, I was able to get it out. It was not reverse threaded. I had sprayed a little PB Blaster on the bolt the day before and maybe letting it sit overnight wound up helping. After getting the bolt out, we were able to remove the drum by following the video step by step. The video steps were great! Once the drum was out, we separated it, removed the tub, and the spider arm assembly. As I suspected, one of the spider arms was broken. Along with the arm, the inside of the tub and outside of the drum was coated with crud. After talking again to a technician, she told me that as a result of either too much detergent, the wrong detergent, or too much fabric softener. I was able to get it all cleaned with my garden hose and a scrub brush. It was nasty! While I had it apart, we decided to replace the tub seal and the rear drum seal. I ordered both seals, the spider arm assembly and some bolts online from Appliancepartspros.com at 3:00 pm central time one day, and they were delivered to my house by 2:00 pm ct the next day. We began the re-assembly that day. Again the videos to do this were easy to follow and spot on. I had a question while installing the rear tub seal but again called a technician and she was able to help me. To ensure the proper fit, she asked me to send her photos, which I did. After confirmation we were good, we put things back together, again following the video step by step. The re-assembly took around 2 hours but If I were to have tackled this job without appliancepartspros.com helping me along the way, I'm sure I would not have been able to get my problem corrected. I used their videos, their phone help, and their online chat. Wait time was always minimal and always outstanding. I can't say how happy I was to be able to get this washer repaired. I may never do it again, but at least did it successfully once. Can't say enough good things about appliancepartspros.com and their support staff.