How to Troubleshoot & Replace Ge AP4324356 / WH02X10265 Tub Bearing Split Ring

Tightened the belt, but that didn’t help. Popped the agitator off and saw that the inner basket hub had disintegrated. Ordered a new hub, nut, spring ring, and belt. I have the ultimate set of tools so I didn’t buy the spanner wrench. I did have to cut the frozen hub nut off, other than that, everything went smoothly. The videos were very helpful. The parts arrived the day after I ordered them. I also took some time to clean 20 years of machismo off of the inner and outer baskets. $80 in parts vs a new $300 machine. I should get another 10 years out of this machine. 

Replaced Axel shaft, while I was in there done all seals, bearings, and belt. At the house in 2 days and all was right parts. 

The videos I watched were very helpful and gave me an idea as how to proceed with the repair. 

Bought new washer. 

I replaced the transmission/mode selector. This repair was complicated because the machine had 2 model # tags. I began by ordering mode selector for the model # listed on the sticker under the lid. when my parts arrived I began deconstruction, only to find a second model # sticker on the rear side of the control panel. I ended up having to return the parts ordered for the first model# and getting the correct parts for my machine.The repair video(s) were the key to my success, as well as the friendly, sympathetic and helpful staff of AppliancePartsPros.com. I am a retired do it yourselfer and this is the 4th repair project the I've successfully completed, thanks to AppliancePartsPros.com 

Replaced old corroded parts. 

Followed the steps in the repair video that was on appliancepartspros website. Although, once I got to the hub it was corroded so bad that it wouldn’t turn. Since the nut is aluminum, I took a hacksaw and cut it vertically on each side until I was able to chisel it off with a screwdriver while being careful not to mess up the threads on the shaft. Removed old parts and installed new. Now it works like new. 

Replaced the hub nut, tub bearing split ring, tub seal, hub washer and agitator coupler. I watched multiple times the APP video. It was extremely helpful and I would not have attempted this without seeing the video. I had a lot of trouble getting the hub nut off. I used an 1 5/8" 6 point strike box wrench and a 4# hammer to get it off. I sprayed it with WD 40 5 or 6 times over of the course of a week to let it soak. I finally got it off. Had I known that the shaft is not round I would have just cut the nut off with an oscillating saw with a metal blade in an area of the shaft where there are no threads. The shaft is square and threaded only on the corners so cutting it in the right place will not damage the threads. When I put the new hub nut on it is 1 11/16" so I had to use a different wrench. Maybe my original nut was the same size but corroded. The key to getting it off is to buy the proper spanner wrench. In the video it appears that the wrench used is not an exact fit which when using a hammer it needs to be. That is why I did not buy the wrench on APPs website. 

I replaced the tub seal, tub split bearing and tub bearing. I found the old tub seal diameter to be larger (due to expansion caused by rust). I had to use rv sealer to seal the gap, all worked out ok. The seal has to fit in tight or it will leak. 

We have an older machine that is not "high efficiency". after looking at new machines I determined I wanted to repair mine. Most challenging part was the nut was severely corroded on the top of the transmission. The spanner wrench just rounded it off. I ended up carefully drilling down through the nut and then using a sharp screwdriver to split it and pried the pieces out. You have to be careful not to damage transmission threads or the tapered seat on the drum.