How to Troubleshoot & Replace Lg AP4439264 / 4434ER0003C Spider Arm Assembly

This job was complicated but not very difficult until it came to loosening the bolts that attached the spider arm to the drum. Follow the video and be prepared for it to take several hours. In my case, I doused the bolts with penetrating oil and heated them with a hairdryer on high heat (my lame substitute for heat gun, which I didn't have). Got 4 of 6 out with some effort and then the last two -- one each on different arms -- were so tight that I used a 25" breaker bar + bolt extractor socket to get the 5th off. Would HIGHLY recommend this method to begin with if I had to do it again. The last one stripped so I hacksawed through the head and then pulled it through the hole. It gaped the hole a bit but I was able to tap back in to place with ball peen hammer and smoothed the edges with a file. You can order the custom replacement bolts from APP for $4.33 (http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-screw-customized-4000fr4031b-ap5224413.html#ixzz55WD9DM2F) but I didn't want to wait so I replaced it with a Stainless M8 1.25 16mm flat head screw from my local hw store for $0.98. It reached well into the spider arm and provided a secure mount. I also applied Locktite (blue) to the bolts when re-mounting. I was really surprised how deteriorated the arm was -- it literally broke off in parts when I began to pry it away from the tub-- so I took another poster's recommendation to spray paint the arm before reinstalling. Gave two coats of Rustoleum to help prevent future deterioration. I'm willing to bet that I'm the only LG customer with a high-gloss forest green spider arm! Took me much longer than expected due to the difficulty with the bolts. I hope to never see the inside of this washer again. 

After a bit of research on the AppliancePartsPros website, I learned the knocking during the spin cycle was most likely due to bearing failure. The video on the website was most helpful in the dismantling process. Once I had the drum assembly removed, the detaching of the inner drum from the outer drum by driving the shaft attached to the inner drum through the bearings which are attached to the outer drum was a challenge due to corrosion between the shaft and bearings. Using a wood block between the end of the shaft and the hammer (to prevent damage to the end of the shaft) I went through 2 or 3 blocks in this process. There was no perceptible movement of the shaft so I decided to switch from a 16 oz hammer to a 3 lb hammer. All this was done with care to avoid damage to the outer plastic drum (which is no longer available). FINALLY!!! the shaft began to move down through. With the inner drum removed I noticed the Spider Arm Assembly which is cast around the shaft and is bolted to the back of the drum was heavily corroded and cracked in the center of all 3 arms. I ordered the Spider Arm Assembly with 1-day shipping since going to the Laundromat would easily cost as much. Removal of the 2 bearings from the outer drum did not go as smoothly as the video, but after a good bit of hammering, that was accomplished. A stubby 8oz hammer was helpful inside the drum. The bolts on the Spider Arm Assembly came out with difficulty, most likely due to corrosion of the aluminum casting, Use a 6 point 10mm socket to do this, not a 12 point or you'll round overheads of the bolts and get nowhere. The bolts are stainless steel; I cleaned the threads with a wire brush. Reassembly went more like the video, and the machine runs and sounds like new thanks to AppliancePartsPros and my endurance. 

My front load LG washer started wobbling, and in the final spin the tub would rub against the gasket, and cause it to smoke. I couldn't load it to full capacity anymore, so I would only put two pairs of jeans and a few shirts in at a time. What a pain! Then it got progressively worse, so I was looking around online and found this site. First I tried replacing the stabilizer shocks at the base of the tub, and it helped, but didn't solve the problem. Then I decided to completely take the machine apart, with the instruction of the videos on this site, and it only took me about an hour and a half, in which I discovered my true problem... My spider was BROKEN!!!! Thanks LG for your quality $900 washing machine that only lasted 6 years!! But an even GREATER Thanks to Appliance Parts Pros for the inexpensive parts and videos that made me my own Appliance Repair Mechanic!!! what would have cost me over 500 to have a tech fix, I did myself for about $120... Talk about savings!! And now my 6 yr old washer runs like brand new!!! It wasn't the most fun thing I've ever done, but I was so proud of myself and so thankful for the help of the Appliance Parts Pros website and instructional materials. 

The spider arm was totally corroded and disintegrating. The real problem with the LG washer is that the manufacturer is attaching a stainless steel drum with an cast aluminum spider arm. There is a dissimilar metal problem even with the crappy anodized finish on the spider. I would recommend coating the front (part that faces the drum and slightly around the sides (do not coat close to the drive arm) in a high solids epoxy or some type of high end paint that is approved for potable water use. This will help the longevity of the spider. One important thing to note is you must have the inner spring expansion tool to put back on the expansion ring. I found a place in town that let me borrow the tool (they charge me full price for it and refunded my money when I returned the tool). In summary the repair company wanted $450 for the repair I did the repair for less than $100. 

Ordered the parts after watching the YouTube video, it explained what to look for and after taking the washer apart I could see the "spider" was cracked. The video took me step by step in putting it back together when my parts arrived. Not exactly quick and easy but well worth the time and effort. The washer is running great now. 

After watching the video carefully and taking notes for step-by-step dismantling of the LG washer, I took it apart methodically placing each item on a table in the order removed. I was able to remove and replace the bearings with no problems following the tips and tricks. The spider did not seem to be in bad shape but since I had a new one, it seemed reasonable to replace it as well, but it was difficult to extract the old one from the drum. The bolts are assembled with weld glue, so it is a good idea to heat them and tap them before even trying to loosen them. Once that was accomplished, I reassembled the machine and it worked great! It seemed well balanced when run empty but not so much with laundry in it, so I re-leveled it while spinning and this nearly eliminated the vibrations. It has been operating flawlessly for several months now. Thank you, appliancepartspros.com. Without your instructions and efficiently correct parts ordering website, this project would not have been possible. 

Went to the appliancePartsPros on line video and simply followed the step by step procedure to take the washer apart. The knocking noise was a good sign the bearings were bad, and the burning smell would have comfermed it, but I had no grinding at the slower speeds ( would have been the grand-slam Of diagnosis if it did. . ). Found the bearings were in good shape, but the " spider " (. The part that holds the barrel to the drive motor ) had a cracked arm, allowing the barrel to move out of place when spun fast enough,, and would rub on the surrounding area causing a burning smell. I replaced the broken spider, and the seal , the repair cost less than $100, and the washer runs like new again. Note, never allow the knocking to go for ANY length of time.. It will groove the outer water seal, or worse , the plastic outer barrel, .. Then the simple inexpensive job turns into the " wish you bought the extended warrantee" job :) 

Several forums on line spoke of the same issue of mine.What happens is the spider bracket on the back of the drum corrodes away to the point where the drum will flex on high spin cycle causing the drum to rub the door seal creating the burn smell.I looked up my model and parts breakdown on this appliancepartspros site and there it was all I needed .I ordered the spider bracket , two new bearings,bearing seal,and a drum seal,and a door seal.I got the parts in 2days and all correct . I put it all back together and it runs like new again.I suggest painting that bracket with a high quality paint to protect it from corroding again that's what I did anyway. The video on YouTube made me vary comfortable that I could take this on without any problem. Really wasn't that hard just a little bit intimidating than anything If I need anything else I will definitely order from here. 

After checking online for a replacement Gasket I was informed that the Spider Arm could be broken and after watching the Appliance Parts Pro video, I dismantled the washing machine and found that the Aluminum Spider Arm, which was resting on the dissimilar metal of the Stainless Steel Tub, was in fact broken in 3 places. After receiving the new parts in about 2 days as promised, I sprayed the new Aluminum Spider Arm with about 5 coats of White Epoxy Appliance paint and allowed it to dry over night. I then installed the new Spider Arm on the SS Tub with 6 new Stainless Steel M8 x 1.25 - 30 mm Allen Head bolts and Blue Loctite Treadlocker. I also found some grooves in the plastic Tub Cover and filled them in with Loctite Marine 2 Part Epoxy Glue. The expectation is that the painted Aluminum Spider Arm will be separated from the Stainless Steel tub by the Epoxy Paint and will prevent bi-metal corrosion. This should allow the Washing Machine to last another 6+ years. Thanks Appliance Parts Pros. The video was extremely helpful and the reviews by members like myself will help educate others who face this common problem that will occur every 5 to 6 years with these front loading washing machines.The Manufactures could have made a Stainless Steel Spider Arm or at least power coated it to increase the lift expectancy of this $1000 machines. 

I used the excellent video on your site to disassemble and reassemble my LG washing machine. My machine was a bit different from the one in the video, but I was able to figure out what to do. The main disassembly technique difference I had with the video was that I used a thin jaw, wire stripping set of pliers to squeeze the shock absorber plug tabs. The main difficulty I had was undoing the steel bolts that go through the side of the SS tub into the cast aluminum spider. I almost 'rounded' the hex head on two bolts, but then used a plumbers blow torch to heat up the aluminum and the subsequent expansion loosened the bolts. I replaced the spider and the bearing and tub seals. My biggest screw up was not connecting the tub air pressure tube to the sensor. Upon starting my first post fix wash, the tub began to fill and fill, so I stopped the machine, drained the tub and then studied the parts schematic diagrams and connected the tube to the sensor. Four washes later we are not only cleaner, but happy we were not cleaned out by a service visit... Thanks! I am now on a personal crusade against LG for them to compensate people for the new spiders. It is a major design flaw, mixing the Al and Fe, particularly in a warm, moist environment.