How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6009126 / WP40111201 Dryer Belt

For about the last month or so the clothes (especially sheets) would just roll into a ball (like a big sausage) the wouldn't dry. Kept readjusting the clothes. I went on the internet to see what the issue could be and found lots of advise about shaking out the sheet and clothes first, using tennis balls, and using fuller or smaller loads. None of that worked. But I finally figured out that the reason they roll into a ball is because the belt around the drum is slipping or stretched. This slippage (especially with a heavy wet load) slows the rotation of the drum just enough so that the clothes don't get tossed enough- just rolled and then they form a big ball. The drum stopped turning just a couple days ago to I took it apart to discover the belt had a serious wear spot, and the tension pulley was also cracked and coming apart. I ordered a new tension pulley, (assembly is optional )new belt and idler spring for a total of $40 including shipping. One hour to tear down and an hour to put back together (because it's the first time). Degree of difficulty 3 on scale of 10. Called a couple local shops- would have cost nearly $100. for same parts not including labor. Time from phoned In order to drying first load 2 days. (part arrived 2 days after order- standard shipping). Very happy- did it all myself (I'm only 70 years old) . Just be careful as metal parts inside unit have shape edges (use gloves). I did not even disconnect the gas or exhausted. just tilt the unit back a little with a block under front. 

I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Then I used a 5/16 nut driver and removed the 2 screws in the bottom front panel and pulled it off. Next I removed the 2 5/16 screws holding the front door panel and pulled it down far enough to disconnect the wires for the light and the wires on the door switch. Then , using a putty knife I popped the springs holding the top and control panel then pulling the top up and resting it against the wall. Now I started my repair by laying on the floor and reaching under the drum and pushed the idler pulley toward the motor drive pulley gaining slack in the belt and pushed it off the idler with my fingers. Next , I stood and lifted the drum up and out the front of the cabinet with the belt still around the drum.next I unhooked the spring from the idler and noticed it was contorted quite excessively so I installed the new one and by using two 9/16 wrenches I removed the idler from the motor housing and installed the new one. Then I took a large flat head screwdriver and pried off the snap rings holding the drum rollers on and installed the new rollers after lightly greasing the shafts with a dab of axle grease. Then I wrapped the new belt around the drum and installed it on the rollers and got back on the floor and reached under the drum to wrap the belt around the idler pulley and pushed it toward the right side wall and hooked it around the motor pulley. Then I replaced the wires on the light and on the door switch and then I let the top down and replaced the two 5/16 screws to hold it in place. Next I installed the bulkhead by inserting the two tabs in the alignment slots in the frame and replaced the five 5/16 screws to hold it in place. Then I installed the bottom panel with two 5/16 screws at the bottom of the panel next to the floor. Then I slid the dryer back and installed the vent hose and replaced the new lint screen , then closed the door and started the dryer to check my repair. It works like brand new and all the work was worth the effort I put into it. Thanks so very much Appliancepartspros.com for supplying such terrific parts and for the great prices and even the step by step instructional videos if someone gets confused or stuck during the repair. I will definitely be ordering my parts from appliancepartspros.com and not anywhere else. 

I've had this dryer apart a few times over the years, always got my parts here. Squeaks and igniter if memory serves. I ordered the two drum rollers that have a bearing in the center..they sit on metal shafts and freeroll. I ordered two..only one was bad but I needed the dryer up in one day, no time to disassemble and decide what to order then wait for parts. Tip: if you order the rollers, there are little washers (nylon?) between the roller and the c clips..don't lose them..they are hard to see. One of mine was missing from last time most likely, I reassembled without that washer but wish I had one, running quietly without it but I'm sure it serves a purpose and maybe that's why my roller failed (from not having that washer). Also, I would order new c clips as well in case you bend one. You have to have that c clip tool or forget it. I also replaced the belt and the idler roller that is on the tension arm but they were both ok. I just ordered anything I thought could be the cause proactively. I recommend taking some pictures as you disassemble the panels..you can forget the order they came off which is how you reassemble..reverse order that is, good for the connectors too..make it idiot-proof as much as possible haha. It would be helpful to have a 2nd pair of hands but I did it myself. I also took a sharpie and marked the colors of the wire connectors so I couldn't put them on backward. I have some mechanical experience, not sure if a novice would want to tackle this. It's be running fine for a few weeks now. $60 parts and delivery not bad..it may get me a few more years out of it knock wood. 

Unplugged unit from power. Removed two sheet metal screws and lower front panel, removed two sheet metal screws and door panel (disconnected three door switch wires and two light wires - noted the connected position of each wire ); removed three self-tapping screws and black plastic hot air outlet to fan duct from lower end of front bulkhead; removed sheet metal screws and front bulkhead; removed two sheet metal screws from dryer top panel and raised top up and back on rear hinge brackets; removed belt from dryer drum and removed drum from unit; removed eight sheet metal screws along with two larger sheet metal screws holding the fan/motor carrier to the dryer base and moved sheet metal fan outlet front panel leaving temp switches with connected wiring off to the left side; disconnected main motor connector from motor; removed belt from motor/idler pulleys; pulled motor/fan carrier forward and out - held in place by two previously removed sheet metal screws at the front and a tab at the back in the dryer bottom. Unscrewed and removed plastic fan from the motor shaft; removed three self-tapping screws and fan housing from motor carrier; removed spring clips holding motor to motor carrier plate and removed motor. Cleaned and de-greased everything -panels, ducts, screens, interior of the dryer - thoroughly. Cleaned/lubricated idler pulley shaft with silicon lube and lubricated the drum bottom roller shafts with silicon lube. Aligned the nubs of the bearings of the new motor to the proper positions on the motor carrier and reinstalled the spring clips. Reassemble unit in reverse of disassembly above and, when reinstalling the drum, added a new belt. Plugged unit back into power receptacle, threw some damp clothing in, and ran unit. Done. Disassembly/reassembly takes maybe 20 minutes but thorough cleaning requires more that a half-hour if done correctly and completely. 

I went on line and purchased all of the possible parts that could be worn out. I spent less than the service guy wanted to show up...The online videos were spot on. Two hours and it works like new! One of the best values on the Internet! 

Replaced the belt tension pulley, the drum support rollers and the drum guide. While I was at it I replaced the belt. The repair was easy to complete. It took just over an hour to do the job. I ordered all of the parts that I thought could cause the squeak ahead of time. As it turned out the squeak was caused by the belt tension pulley. I replaced the other parts while I had the dryer apart. The Dryer should be noise free for several years. 

Disconnect vent line(s) and remove power plug or source to unit (Very Important!) Carefully removed dryer drum assembly and found evidence of heavy object(s) placed on top of dryer while operating which caused the drum to be bound up while operating. (Rule #1: NEVER place heavy objects or large amounts of wet clothing on TOP of dryer near the middle of the dryer top (where there is no heavy support) while it is ON!!!) This caused the pulleys and bearing assemblies (and glides on the front drum support) to bind, heat up and wear very quickly, which made the dryer turn off-balance in the holding fixtures. Had it been left like this for too long, I believe it would have burned up the motor, or worse case caught on fire! (Dryer dry good, fire bad) Provided proper training to family in the use and operation of the unit. (and cleaned out the various lint and dust collection areas, to include exhaust and electrical parts). Please do this as a part of your repair, as there were areas in the dryer that needed some attention (wire routing to prevent chafing, and excessive lint build-up) that could have done their worse even without the drum repairs. After all repairs are complete, make sure to check the floor level posts and position to ensure the dryer is level with the floor (could be a part of the uneven wear on the pulleys?). 

Watched your video . Was not the same year model Dryer but with a few modifications was able to fix it. 

I had to take the lower pannel off and then the pannel around the door. the top was next to come off the belt was still connected. So I dissconnected the belt took off the front drum support pannel theand removed the drum. The belt was chewed up and the tensioner pully was also very tight. I took the motor out of the machine and found the drive pully on the motor was stripped out on the motor shaft. the motor shaft threads were ok but you cann't get the pully seperate you have to get the hole motor. so I had nothing to loose, I epoxyed the pully back on the motor and thightened it up by hand and let it dry. I replaced the tensioner pully and lubed the shaft. I then reassembled the dryer after vaccuming the inside of the case and also the vent pipe.I ran the dryer unloaded and it worked fine then with a load and it ran perfectly and still is. 

Replaced the tension pulley assembly, drum rollers, drum roller axles, belt, and drum glides while I had the dryer disassembled. It turned out that the cause of the squeak was the tension pulley assembly, however it was easy and economical enough to replace anything that could have been the cause of the squeaking while I had the dryer apart. The parts were ordered on Thursday afternoon and delivered on Friday. I had the dryer repaired and running like new in no time. For about $100, it was cheaper than calling a service technician who would have charged me that much just to figure out what was wrong with it.