How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP5971447 / W10789434 Clamp

I could hear relays clicking, but we didn't hear the "humming and wooshing" that we associated with water spraying around and dishes becoming clean. And indeed - sometimes they came out kind of OK and sometimes they came out straight up nasty. I probably should have done more diagnostics (like checking for voltage at the pump) but I decided to roll the dice and order a new pump. Replacement was entirely straightforward. The video was tremendously helpful. I took the repair job as a chance to clean everything up and check other fittings while I was at it. With a new pump the dishwasher was back to "humming and wooshing" as we remembered and both the dishes and the inside of the dishwasher are sparkling clean. I suspect that the pump was dying for a while before it got to the point that we really couldn't ignore it anymore. Either way, three cheers for Appliance Parts Pros. The video helped me figure out what to do and they had our pump (and new seal and hose clamp) out the door within hours of placing the order. The next time some consumer durable good in my home fails, I'll be right back here. Bezos can bugger right off. Bring your business to the folks that also help you figure out how to diagnose and replace! 

I found the noise coming from the recirculating pump. Once that was removed, it was obvious as to what was causing the noise. The chopper blade was completely chewed up. Appliance Parts Pros website had the right model, exploded parts views and more importantly, the correct part in stock. It arrived on time and installation was a breeze. 

Replaced sump because the seal is not sold separately. You will need a skinny clamp after cutting the original swaged clamp off. Also Had to replace the cover as its seal is not sold separately either. Used dish soap on seals during assembly. 

I discovered a major leak at the bottom of the dishwasher near the diverter motor. The leak was so significant that water dripped onto my basement floor. The dishwasher is 7 years old. I read a number of articles suggesting that the problem would be the gasket on the diverter motor. I ordered one and that wasn’t the problem. I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet and disassembled the sump and motor assembly. After doing so I could clearly see that the leak was coming from the sealed gasket that goes around the assembly and attaches to the inside of the dishwasher. I probably could have just purchased the sump assembly without the drain and diverter motor and saved around $200. Since the dishwasher was 7 years old and I had it apart I decided to replace everything. It came assembled as one unit. That being said I didn't need the special sized clamps that I ordered for the drain motor. I paid for next-day shipping and I received the part the next day and completed the repair. I really can’t see a way to make this repair without removing the unit from the cabinet space. There are 3 sump mount bolts that need to be removed as well as a number of electrical connections and a few of these connections weren’t visible until the unit was removed and flipped onto its back. As most people have stated the hardest part of the repair was removing the dishwasher from the cabinet space. 

Replaced the wash pump, the sump seal, and clamp. Problem fixed. The service diagnostic error code 6-4 was misleading. I had replaced everything related to float switch including the inlet valve, inlet hoses before and after the inlet valve, the house water stop valve, the float, the float micro switch, discharge hose with the check valve, and the discharge hose to drain. It was the wash pump slowly dying. Sometimes it would work perfectly, making diagnosis difficult. I think if you get an error code, it means something is wrong. It should not be used for diagnosis. 

The grommet needed to be replaced but, unfortunately, Whirlpool requires replacement of the entire sump. So I purchased a new sump, a new diverter motor (even though the old one was still working but had signs of water damage) and 2 hose clamps since the originals could not be reused. The video on the AppliancePartsPros web site was extremely helpful and explained the entire process from start to finish. I consider myself to be moderately handy and I had no problem making the repair. I probably spent about 1 hour on the disassembly and another 1.5 hours on the re-assembly including time to clean some of the old parts before putting them back. 

Received your parts very fast & installed them with some youtube video assistance. The leak is gone. The dishwasher is once again operational. Beats a $150+ service call where the repairman breaks more than he can fix!!! 

It was easy to identify this problem, you will see water dripping from the center of the tub when looking underneath. After watching the APP videos, this was a rather easy repair despite my setup being different. The only odd tool needed is the Torx 15 screwdriver. Other than that, just following the steps, I had it done in a little over an hour and fixed the problem. A few pointers: 1. Check with a mirror before you take out the dishwasher and you should be able to see the clamp on the drain motor. If it appears to be a compression clamp, or even not sure, get the screw clamp. 2. Take a picture of your setup beforehand so you know the proper placement of the motors and wiring harnesses. 3. Not sure I needed the diverter motor, but will say it is redesigned from the original. 4. Use water and liquid soap before installing the rubber seals. 5. The sump can be installed incorrectly. Make sure you line up the pin with the corresponding hole. 

My dishwasher was leaking out the bottom, and by pulling it out and running a cycle I quickly saw it was from the diverter shaft. Since this seal is glued into the sump, I ordered a sump which comes with the new seal installed. The only difficult part was compressing the main sump seal into the dishwasher housing--I basically had to climb inside the unit and use my body weight to get it to seat properly. Note that at least one additional clamp is required since the original pump hose clamps on the high pressure side are one-time-use crimp clamps. This site helped me prepare and order the parts I needed so I didn't have to wait for multiple orders. 

Couldn't figure out where water was coming from at first as all hoses were in tact. I test ran dishwasher and figured out that it was coming out directly underneath middle of Sump. I Watched video and replaced Sump and Diverter Motor, and NO MORE LEAKS! Diverter motor was absolutely shot and the gasket and entry on the Sump were rough. Took a few hours on a Saturday afternoon, but video made things fairly easy. I'm a DIYer, so replacing things wasn't too bad. Be sure to be safe and cut power to the unit before working on it. My unit is hard wired, so I had to disassemble the power wires and completely reinstall. Very satisfied with this site and the experience. Very happy now!