How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6008281 / WP3387747 Dryer Heating Element

I took the dryer apart tested the heating element and it was bad. I ordered a new one. When it got here 10 minutes later I was drying clothes. 

Ordered a replacement heating element from Appliance Parts Pros, fast shipping and watched the video for the install. Got the part replaced in under 30 minutes and my wife is now happy! 

Replaced heating element. 

Thank heavens for YouTube:) Searched the model number for the parts I needed and it brought me to this site. I have used the site before for a condenser fan for an LG French door fridge ao I trusted the site. Parts were here in three days and I was able to replace both the thermal fuse and heating element. So far so good! I’m a single mom and certainly not well versed in home repair but the ease of the site and process was effortless! Thank you! 

Watched a video on how to disassemble the dryer to get to the heating element. I found there was far more screws than what was mentioned on any online guide. Took out all the screws and pulled the top and front off. I then took a multimeter and ohm'd out the heating element to test for continuity. There was none, I then tested the the thermal switch and limiter for continuity and those passed. I then pulled out the heating element and found the coil was broken. I then ordered the heating element and put it back in and reversed the process. Everything worked. 

Tested all heating-related components using an ohmmeter until I found the heater coil had an open. Ordered a new heater coil and replaced it. Works great and drys much faster than it has in years. The replacement part was for the newer model dryer but worked fine, though it was a pain to get it out and put in the new part due to the way the older model heater bracket was designed. 

This is a 26 year old dryer, and I've made a few repairs to it over the years. I used a multimeter to check the thermal fuses and they were OK, but the resistance of the heating element, which the diagram on the kick panel said should be less than 12 ohms and it was - open circuit. I pulled out the whole tube that the element sits inside - don't do that! Just remove the one screw near the porcelain insulator and pull the element out that way. Sure enough the heating coil had broken. Replacement arrive quickly (thanks) and we are back in business! 

Easy fix and I would argue it is as simple as the fuse replacement. Kenmore Elite front load dryer would not heat. Unplugged the dryer removed the outer panel and then the inner blower shield to get to the element housing. Two screws (1/4 in) on the outer housing 3 on the inner housing, one on the element front housing then the one screw that holds the element in (removed in that order). Unhooked the electrical connections to the element then pulled the element out vacuumed a small buildup in the element housing then slide the new one in and put everything back together. Hardest part was to line the screw holes up on the outer cover. One additional tool that helps is a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the electrical connection apart before you remove the element. 

Replaced the heated element. 

Checked element with multimeter then visually spotted break. Easy ordering part, delivered and installed. I had marked all wires prior to removal. The only issue was recalling how element housing mounted back. A little time and figured out.