Michael September 01, 2025 dryer runs fine but takes at least 2 cycles to properly dry a load of clothes. Dryer vent line was cleaned thoroughly. Dryer temp was measured at 131 degrees F from the drum with door opened
1 Answer Michael, You will want to check the cycling thermostat. There are 2 inner terminals are for a bias heater which should have a resistance of approximately 9.5K ohms. If the resistance is off then the thermostat would be faulty and need to be replaced. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Greg and thank you for your question. With the power cord unplugged, the timer knob can be pulled off of the timer. The back console panel screws would then be removed to allow the console to rotate forward. Taking a picture of how the timer is wired would be recommended. The wires can be transferred over to the new timer, the timer mounting screw removed, and the old timer pulled free. The new timer will insert into place and secure with the old screws. The console can be rotated and secured back in place and the knob set onto the new timer. Read More...
Robert September 07, 2024 for Model Number 11065964400 if my heating element is bad, can it still have continuity terminal to terminal. keeps tripping high limit thanks, Bob
1 Answer Robert, a heating element can have continuity from terminal to terminal and still be bad. In a situation like this, the element would need to be tested from terminal to the housing to identify if it has grounded out. If there is continuity from terminal to the housing, the element WP3387747 would need to be replaced. Read More...
Tom January 11, 2024 for Model Number GEW9250PW1 No heat. I replaced the element (14) the thermostat (48) and the thermal cut off (47). I started it and the element heated up for about 3 minutes. The element then stopped glowing\heating. What else could it be? The dryer still runs and tumbles, just no heat.
1 Answer Tom, You will want to check the flame sensor for continuity at room temperature and check the gas coils for being faulty. Read More...
Shauna October 10, 2023 for Model Number 110 62982100 My dryer stopped heating up so I replaced the thermal cutoff off kit. The heating element worked when tested and then stopped working again. I then replaced the heating element and the thermal fuse. This did not fix the issue and now the dryer will not start unless the start button is continually pressed. What do I do now? Any ideas where the issue is and what the next steps are? Thanks!
1 Answer Shauna, Based on the information provided you will need to replace the motor. 279787 Read More...
John September 27, 2023 for Model Number GEW9200LW1 I'm not getting any heat. I checked both limiters on the heating coil and I'm getting continuity. I checked both limiters on the air duct and I'm getting continuity on one, and 8.7k ohms on the other. I'm getting 120volts on both sides of the coil, and 10k resistance thru the coil with the wires disconnected. No heat. Is it possible that it could be a high open in the coil? What about the control panel?
1 Answer John, When properly testing the element you should have 240vac across the coil at the point it should be heating. Read More...
Ralph July 30, 2023 for Model Number 110.69822801 Where is the heating element located on kenmore mod 110.69822801 and how do i access it
1 Answer Ralph, The element is located underneath the drum and can be accessed through the lower access panel on the dryer front. Read More...
Brian June 30, 2023 for Model Number MED6230HW1 Hello. I just installed WP3387747 in a customer's dryer and I noticed after I reconnected the wires it was wired different than other Whirlpool dryers. I made a diagram before disconnecting the wires. Basically there was a main power wire going to the thermal fuse, then from the other terminal of the thermal fuse to one of the terminals of the heating element. Then the other main power wire connected to the high limit thermostat, then from the other terminal of the high limit thermostat to the other terminal of the heating element. The dryer heated up so I assume the wiring was correct. It just seemed odd. Usually a main power wire connects to the thermal fuse, then a jumper from the other terminal of the thermal fuse to the high limit thermostat. Then another jumper wire from the other terminal of the high limit thermostat to the heating element. Then the other main power wire connects directly to the heating element. I hope this all makes sense.
1 Answer Brian, this particular model is wired differently than normal and it sounds like it is wired up properly in accordance to the manufacturer's information. Read More...
John March 24, 2023 for Model Number 110.68942891 I replaced the heating element on this model and forgot to take a picture of the wiring. Can you help me out which wire goes where on the element and the 2 temp sensors?
1 Answer Hello John, this model being a Kenmore model, there is no service/wiring diagram available. Suggest if you cannot determine the wires' locations, a service tech should be contacted to assist. Read More...
Samantha April 25, 2022 for Model Number MEDB765FW0 I finally got my dryer open (after a lot of trial and error because there are no videos showing how to do it on this particular model) and I can see the housing around the heating element, but I have no idea how to access it. I opened the lower front panel. The housing seems to be bolted in place though. I do see a screw right up front, but it is in such a way that a regular drill won't fit to reach it. If there are screws in the back, I don't think I would be able to access them without opening the back of the machine. Please help me figure out how to access the heating element so that I can change it out. I've already ordered the part; I just cant get to it.
1 Answer Samantha, You will remove the screw on the base of the unit that holds the housing in place with a 1/4 nut driver or ratchet. Then there will be a screw on the under side of that will also be a 1/4 hex once you pull out the housing and this will expose the element. Read More...