How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6010250 / WP661600 Direct Drive Washer Motor

Wife texted me at work saying the washer was making a loud noise and that it had stopped working and wouldn't spin or drain. Took a look at it when I got home, and after a few minutes of inspection and listening, I referenced possible causes and settled on it being the clutch assembly. Ordered the clutch assembly, washer drive block and motor coupling at the same time, just in case. Replaced all parts with just basic hand tools and relative ease. Started it up after reassembly and the cycle was able to finish. Two days later it stopped again at the same point in the cycle. It had just finished the rinse, but wouldn't go to spin and drain. Did some more looking at possible causes and with the agitator not spinning easily by hand, I ordered the neutral drain transmission. Again, with just the same tools I used previously, it was fairly easy to replace and worked once again. After it quit again later that same day, I called APP and explained what all I had experienced and replaced. Was told by the rep I talked with that the next possible cause for it to stop where it had in the cycle was most likely the timer as this was a common issue with this model washer. Ordered and replaced that as well with the same ease, but with main issue still not resolved. It still stopped after the rinse part of the cycle At this point (between ordering parts and waiting on their arrival) it had been more than a week since it had worked like it should. With little other options as causes, and out of sheer frustration, I ordered the main motor itself. Same tools and ten minutes later I had a fully functional washer again. 

Gear-case transmission replacement was the main task but decided to replace a lot of other parts to restore the machine to near-new condition. After five separate orders for various parts- and a UPS “sortation error” resulting in a 10-day delay, I finally got everything back together just before running out of clean clothes to wear. The last order was for a new motor after the old one produced the burning smell symptom late in the game. The most challenging task was center post-bearing replacement- but it is doable with care and patience- and Simon’s video. It is great that APP has a video for every part it sells. This saves you from wading through hit-and-miss YouTube videos. Advice: keep all old parts until the job is finished. I had to reuse the white lint filter disc located under the basket after finding the new replacement plugs were too small for my basket holes. This was the only parts return I had, which was easy to do with APP. The original basket drive was the least worn part after 36 years and maybe didn’t need replacing, but I didn’t want to be taking this machine apart again for anything. Now I have a new 1987 Kenmore washer again, which I wouldn’t trade for any new washer. Spin cycle is the quietest mode on the wash cycle now, no longer sounding like a New Year's Eve noisemaker. I also have a Kenmore dryer bought as a pair with the washer in 1987. I just replaced the rear guide roller wheels right after I did the washer. Now it no longer sounds like a chicken is inside of it when drying. What I spent to repair everything comes out to about $26 a year over 36 years of service. If the new parts are as good as original parts these machines should out last me now. 

Hindsight being 20/20 I should have figured out it was the motor. I initially thought it was the transmission. The big clue was it wouldn’t drain. The water pump is driven by the engine. I don’t think the transmission has anything to do with it. But I had all the symptoms, burning electrical smell, (again engine) very loud when washing, stopped mid-wash cycles and then would do nothing, turning the dial and it would just buzz. After a couple of calls with customer service, they thought it was the clutch, which didn’t make sense. Since the water pump has nothing to do with the clutch and I couldn’t get it to fully drain. What really helped and was the key, when I had it apart I tested each part. I checked the water pump, it worked, and spun easily, so I knew that was good. My transmission was a little wonky, not the reason for the washer not working, but probably needed changing anyway. When I had everything thing apart, I had the engine, with nothing attached but the wires, sitting g by itself and decided to run a cycle. It would work for a while, then start making noise and stop. You have to keep the lid closed to make it work. I had it lying on its back with the lid open before I realized that’s why it wasn’t working at first, make sure you keep it closed when you test the engine. The drive shafts where you connect to the water pump and transmission we’re really hot. That seemed like a red flag. I’d wait a few minutes and try to start the cycle again and it would start, run a few minutes and then seize or not start, just buzz. So thru isolating it, and nothing hooked up to it. It was clear the motor was done. Hope this helps. I did replace the transmission first, but it was dripping a little oil, and thought I’m here. But the washer runs great now. It wasn’t hard. Always take pics as you're disassembling it. My biggest challenge was trying to figure out how the clutch pieces went together with the transmission replacement. Not hard, but doesn’t really show how the two pieces fit together, just tells you they will hit if you don’t fit them properly. Basically, there are two spring pieces, one on the bottom of the washer, and one on the transmission that interlocks to form the clutch . The washer side goes at 12:00< straight up. The transmission side goes at 9:00 o’clock. And slides Between the top washer spring one and the plastic piece on the clutch. 

I tried running the machine through a few cycles, and every time it got to the spin cycle, it sounded like the motor was trying to turn, and then a "click" sound came from the motor. The motor got hot, and wouldn't turn. I removed the water pump and placed the motor on the floor, and ran it through a cycle again. This time the motor spun free. I spun the transmission, and the tub spun so I figured nothing was blocked there. I also removed both hoses from the water pump, checking for blockage inside...nothing there either. This is a used washer that is approximately 12 years old. After replacing the motor, the washer works fine! I have bought several parts for this washer through Appliance Parts Pros, and so far every part has been factory original and fit perfect! 

Since it could be the pump or the motor or both. I replaced both the motor and the pump. I followed the video on replacing the pump and also replacing the motor. The pump had leaked and rusted the bottom clip. I ordered the motor, couplings, pump, and the clip. The first 3 I received on Wed. which came from Illinois and the clip on Thurs. which came from Texas?? Not sure why. I was able to replace the motor and pump and waited for the bottom clip. Finished on Thurs. Even though the motor and couplings were not the same as the old ones I carefully measured the distances and it did work. Was not as easy as the videos, but it did work. This was an old washer and your videos do not show all of the cleaning that takes time. The washer now works like new. 

Ordered it and put it in myself 

Replaced motor. This didn't seem to work at first, but I noticed that with the motor and pump in place, when I turned the clutch assembly by hand that the part of the motor shaft that is supposed to drive the pump did not seem to be turning. I then unclipped the pump from the motor and tried to get the pump to turn by jamming something in the drive hole and turning, but it would not turn. So I disconnected the pump and found a sock jammed tightly in the pump. Once I was able to remove that and put everything back to together, it worked. In the future if I suspected the motor was bad, I would check to see if the pump is jammed first. The motor likely burned out trying to turn a jammed pump. Actually, I'm not sure if the old motor is burned out, since the new one was already in and it made sense to leave the new one in and not put back a 20 year old motor that had smelled burning. The hardest part of the repair was getting the sheet metal washer cover back on the rest of the machine. It still isn't on quite right, but it doesn't really matter 

The APP DIY videos helped a lot - but I ran into several 'issues'. The tub and drive-block did not come off of the basket-drive shaft as easily as shown on the video. After 28-years of steady use, scale and gunk and corrosion had 'welded' the steel/aluminum/brass parts together. What finally worked was turning the spanner nut upside down and using a three-arm gear-puller to lift the drive-block and tub off of the basket-drive shaft. Corrosion on the basket-drive shaft also made its removal difficult. I eventually got the basket-drive out using a 5-lb hammer with a wooden block and then a wood dowel. The washer is good as new. The new drive train is running and even quieter than before. A note of thanks to Michael: the basket drive was damaged in shipping, poorly packed. One call to APP had a replacement on its way. The expedited shipping helped save my marriage. Thank you!!! 

I replaced the motor that was not working with the one I purchased on your website. 

The appliance parts pros website suggested that it was the washer motor. I also thought the coupler might be worn. We tried just replacing the coupler first since it was a cheaper part and did seem to have wallowed out on the drive shaft. When we got to the high spin, though, we had the burning smell again. So then we replaced the motor, too. Our repair was just like the video except that our washer drive motor had an attached solenoid that had to be unplugged and unscrewed from the motor frame and reattached on the new motor. The video really helped and the washer seems to be running very well and no longer smells hot when spinning.