How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6973145 / W11396033 Door Switch

Watched the Video you guys had, would have never know how easy it was with this video. 

On this fridge, the light switch resides in the top compartment, over the doors, and is activated by a bar that slides as you open and close the door. I removed the decorative front panel to access the top compartment. Fridge light switch resides on the far right side. In order to remove and replace the switch without breakage: With door closed, I removed two hex screws using a 1/4" socket driver, and removed a small back "box" so that I could access the switch from the back. The closed door simplified access to the screws. I removed the two wire connections from the switch. I then opened the fridge door to allow full access to the switch. I pinched the bottom of the switch so as to compress the plastic holding it in place; it then swung out easily. I inserted the new switch with the same orientation as the old, with prongs up. It snaps into place. Old switch was two prong; the new, more "universal" replacement has three prongs; I used just the two outer prongs, and placed the wire connections on the prongs; center prong remains idle. I closed the fridge door, for better access to the screws I mentioned earlier. I then replaced the back "box," and restored the hex screws. I had to pinch the metal box a bit to get the screws to align with their holes. I restored the decorative panel, and BAM! I had a working light switch in place! 

The switch arrived promptly after ordering. The repair video was very helpful. The only difference was that rather than three individual wires to connect to the switch, my fridge had the three wires on a connector that was even more easily pulled off and re-attached to the new switch. The replacement process was extremely easy, especially knowing from the repair video which side of the switch had the catch prong and thus was the side on which to start the removal process. 

My husband ordered the replacement switch from you, and he was able to follow the easy steps on the tutorial to repair the issue. It saved us a whole lot of money! 

I ordered the replacement part from the website. 

Ordered the replacement switch from AppliancePartsPros.com. Reviewed a short AppliancePartsPro.com video on typical refrigerator door switch removal & replacement. Received door switch, disconnected the refrigerator from electric power source, removed door switch with thin putty knife & screwdriver, disconnected old switch electric connections, connected new switch & carefully installed it in the switch slot. Works fine, it took about 10 minutes for the whole process. 

Followed instructions in the AppliancePartsPros video. Very easy fix. Only needed a putty knife to remove the broken switch. 

If my bottom-drawer freezer is left slightly open, the inside will frost/freeze up everywhere. Once this happens, after defrosting and cleaning it out, the door switch will not always turn on the light (or it will stutter), and the ice maker will not cycle. Replacing the switch fixes both these problems. This is the second time I've had to do this, I think the switch itself has a design flaw. I'm guessing if water gets in the switch something gets messed up to not let a consistent "door closed" signal to the ice maker, preventing it from cycling. You'll need two screwdrivers or a screwdriver and a auto trim tool to pull it out. 

Replaced door light switch on both doors. On this built-in KitchenAid refrigerator model, it is located above the refrigerator in the compressor/coil space easily accessible by removing the covers which lift right off. Switches are in the opposing front corners and are triggered by a paddle attached to each door. Removed the 1/4 inch screws, bracket, cover to expose the old switches to swap out with the new ones. 

Ordered replacement part, exchanged light switch. A quick simple process.