How to Troubleshoot & Replace Whirlpool AP6013514 / WP8577274 Dryer Thermistor

Replaced the burnt control board, with a new one. 

Ended up being a burnt heater and thermal cut-off. I went ahead and replaced the thermostat and thermistor due to age don't want to go back in a couple of weeks to get them cheap insurance 

Searched for reasons why a dryer wouldn't heat, with most resources saying to check the thermal fuse and thermistor for continuity. I checked using my voltmeter and found both had no continuity. Using my model number, I ordered replacement parts. I watched the repair video, which for the most part covered the repair; however, my specific dryer was not the same as the one shown in the video. I did not want to take my entire dryer apart in order to replace the thermal fuse and thermistor. Tight fit in some areas but I got the job done. Wish the video was specifically for my dryer. As others had suggested, I checked for reasons why the thermal fuse may have tripped, checking the lint trap area, interior of the exhaust duck, and outside vent covering. My dryer was Kenmore HE2, model 110.97531702, and 14 years old. 

I replaced the heating element . But since I was taking the machine apart I replaced all of the wareable parts so the dryer will last another 10 years. 

Older Whirlpool dryer would not start. Looked at YouTube video showing how to determine issue. As I checked all the parts, I came to the fuse, and it showed no continuity. On the advice of the YouTube video, I also ordered the Thermistor. Parts arrived quickly and were easy to replace. 

We replaced the Dryer Thermister. 

Our dryer is over 15 years old. Over time, the heat level has dropped, but it continued to work with enough time and airflow. Finally, the heat stopped. I tried the lowest cost repair option - a new heater element and a couple of other parts since I was going to have it opened up. Bottom line is that it worked. Access was easy from the front of the machine. Once I opened it up, I was amazed at the amount of lint in there. I should have opened it up years ago and vacuumed it out. Once clean, parts popped in and out easily. Just need a 1/4" ratchet set, #1 and #2 screwdrivers, and plyers came in handy to pull the wires off the terminals. 

Called AppliancePartsPros.com & it was late in the day. They said the part wouldn't go out until the next day. They went above and beyond and got part out the same day!!! Already had the dryer apart so two days later when we got the part the new element went back in & we were in business!! Thanks!!! 

Maytag front loading dryer would not heat. The drum would spin and the blower was working but with no heat. I looked at other repair stories after finding the model number of the dryer, and found several that detailed similar issues and listed the parts used in their repairs. I ended up buying and replacing the moisture sensor bar, thermal cut-off kit, and the dryer thermistor. Also replaced the heating element. All these were very straightforward repairs and took relatively little time. The videos supplied in the parts listing were invaluable. After replacement, on the first run, I noticed the machine getting very hot to the touch on the top and the side. Realized that there was a major blockage in the exhaust vent, and cleaned that out using a DIY brush kit. LOTS of lint and debris. Finally achieved free airflow, and the dryer worked perfectly. Now theorizing that the blockage tripped the thermal cut-off (luckily), and stopped the heat. One note, I was trying to do this repair using my 1/4in ratchet set and a 1/4-inch socket. I later broke down and bought a 1/4 inch magnetized nut driver and found it worked a lot easier. Just more simple. Ordered the parts and did a two-day delivery option. Glad I did. 

I replaced the Thermal Fuse. This corrected the problem. Also replaced the thermistor and the moisture sensors. The videos are very helpful. Thanks again.