This will be long but, hope it helps any of ya.
I have an LG TROMM frontload washer, mod WM2077CW, that I bought new in 2006, I've only had to replace the drain pump, several years back, and the rotation sensor on the stator, so it been very reliable. I knew when it started getting noisy during spin cycles just recently, that the bearings were going out and within a month, it was sounding like a freight train. I'd ordered from AppliancePartsPros.com before, so went ahead and ordered new bearings, seal, tub gasket, and the three dampers; found original ones weren't really that bad, but figured 16 years of wear might be good for replacement criteria. Gathered all the tools I'd need before I started, to save running back and forth. I followed the disassembly/assembly steps, very well detailed, in the video from the site, but will share some tips that may help others.
I wish I'd removed the sensor at the right rear near the bottom, the one on the white spring pivot arm, I believe it may be the out-of-balance sensor; because the tub fell on it when I was removing the tub springs, and slightly damaged it, but I was able to mostly get it back straight. Anyway, I'd recommend just removing the one screw and laying the sensor out of the way. Most posts mention 5-6 hours to complete this job; i wish that were the case for me. Having never done this, I didn't suspect that after 16 years, it would take me 3-4 hours just to, first, beat the shaft out of the bearings, using a 2lb hammer and block of wood, and also beat the bearings out of the tub, using a 10" punch and the same hammer; the shaft and bearings were seriously seized in place, and I had sprayed kroil on em before I started too. Once I had them removed, I inspected the spyder gear(support arm on the bottom of the drum) and the shaft; the arm was pretty corroded and the shaft was badly pitted at the base where the seal "rides" on the shaft and deduced that was the cause of the seal failure and hence, water intrusion in the bearings. Once any water gets in the bearing, the bearing will quickly begin to fail. Needless to say, I had to order, and wait for, a new spyder gear. I would recommend, if its been a number of years, ordering a new spyder gear if you're replacing the bearings and seal; my cost, for all items mentioned, was $342 with standard shipping; not a bad price for a relatively like-new operating washer. While waiting on the spyder gear, and since I had the washer apart completely, I very thouroughly cleaned all parts of it.
Be VERY patient putting the new bearings in the tub; they do NOT just slide in, and I had mine in my freezer for two days; it took me about two hours to get both in. I went through a couple blocks of wood, placed on the outside rim of the bearings, and a hammer; do NOT hit on the inner bearing ring, I also used a rubber mallet and a brass hammer. Never use a steel hammer to beat on a bearing, unless you're removing and diacarding the bearing; that is very bad advice; it is causing damage that will reveal itself sooner than you wish; I did bearing failure analysis for many years as a profession.
I installed the large round door gasket onto the tub while I had it laid out, and had 0 issues with that. Instead of using vice grips to connect the ends of the gasket spring band, like they show in the video, I used two zip ties; ringed one on the band hook and one through the ring of the spring and just pulled the hook and spring together and clasped them together; very easy and quick, then just cut the zip ties off. When screwing the stator bolt in, I used a dab of blue thread lock. Also, do not torque down too tight on the bolt, you will "squeeze" the bearings and seal to the point the drum will not spin freely and will cause accelerated bearing and seal wear. Snug it down really good and then give the drum a spin; it should spin freely, not like a wheel with the brake on.
When all put back together I did an emty rinse and spin cycle to verify proper operation and no leaks; don't wanna find out something needs "tweaked" with a load of wet cloths in the washer.
Also, I used only a 12mm wrench to get the three dampers pins out.