Lg 4681EA2001T Genuine Washer Drain Pump And Motor Assembly OEM Part

It was fairly obvious that the washer drainer motor had failed, water was not draining, filter was clean (bottom lower left panel door, have a pail ready!) and drain line was not blocked. Someone had provided great advice on the Appliance Parts Pro's site about replacing the drain motor from the bottom. Great suggestion! Easy to do, although be prepared for more water to drain from the washing machine onto the floor after you lay it over. I carefully lowered the machine onto it's back, which allowed gravity to bring the motor assembly towards you after the filter housing had been removed (same external lower / left front panel), one Phillips screw and then the two Phillips screws under that housing are removed. Then remove the wires to both pumps (the closest pump is the re-circulation NOT the drain pump. DO NOT MIX THOSE UP, as they are not the same part!). I took a picture with my phone to remember placement of the pump motor vs motor assembly housing and which wire went on which post. Worked great as a quick reminder. Once the wires are off, use an adjustable plier to crimp the hose clamp, pulling the clamp further up the hose, for both the main drain hose and the recirculation hose and then remove the hoses from the main pump assembly housing. This allows you to twist the main pump housing assembly 180dg so that the drain motor is now facing you. Once you do this, there are three small phillips head screws that attach the motor to the drain pump housing, take those out and remove the drain pump, take the plastic shroud housing off that and put it on the new pump and simply replace the new pump in the housing. Make sure the pump o-ring does not crimp as you install the pump. Reference the picture you took to ensure the motor is aligned properly to the housing (housing is pre-drilled with many screw holes that would align almost any position, but the pump must be aligned to the housing the same way as the old one); re-attach the hoses and wires and then the two phillips screws to the filter housing substructure, the place the filter housing back on from the outside and install the last phillips screw . . . BOOM; done. NO screws need be removed from the large plastic base / floor of the washer. The large hole in this base provides sufficient space to make this happen. A flash-light is also handy. Simple. Love the service Appliance Parts Pro's provide!! Well done guys, I would never hesitate to tackle this again. To think I was very close to just buying a new Washer / Dryer set, but after my wife goaded me into trying it I grudgingly gave it a shot. She was certainly right, well worth it.

I am so grateful for all the information that I found online, including this web site, that I would like to share the details of this repair in case it will help anyone else. Based on all I have read, getting these LG combo machines repaired by a professional service person can be nearly impossible, AND there is only one repair service anywhere near me that services LG and they have terrible reviews, so it was either fix it myself or have to buy a new machine. Ugh!! Pricey. So for about $60, a bunch of online research and some time--I fixed it on my own. Based on the "bad" noise before the machine attempted to drain, I suspected I needed a new drain pump. Before I ordered the part I dismantled the machine and looked for clogs, however. I followed these excellent instructions (http://fish.freeshell.org/LGWM3431HW.html) to get into the top of the machine. While I was in there, I cleaned a bunch of gunk/lint out of the dry duct and the condensing duct (as is recommended by users of these machines, even though LG does not tell you to do this). Note: It appears impossible to remove the condensing duct to clean it out completely without taking apart the entire machine, so perhaps don't bother trying. I stuck a dryer-duct cleaning brush down in there from the top and cleaned out all the gunk I could. Next, with the help of some "generic" videos on replacing the drain pump on an LG washer (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cPl22OC9f4&spfreload=10, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WBTgGSFeQs&spfreload=10) and a Service Manual for the WM3431 that I found online for free (after a long search; I would post the link but I lost it), I removed the front of the machine to access the drain pump. This involved: 1) removing the top "control" panel (but not disconnecting it); 2) unscrewing the door lock; 3) releasing the door seal; 4) removing the front "door" panel (and disconnecting the door lock wires so to move the panel completely out of the way); 5) removing the lower front "coin catch"/drain panel. Details of all this are in the videos. Once the machine was dismantled I could access the drain pump. Disconnecting the drain pump involved: 1) unclamping from the drain pump a large black hose that runs to the washing drum; 2) unclamping from the drain pump a smaller gray hose (the drain hose); 3) releasing a tab underneath the pump, allowing it to slide back and out; 4) releasing (by pulling out) two wire connections at the back of the pump. Then I checked the gray drain hose and the black hose for clogs. There were none. Once the drain pump apparatus was out of the machine, I removed the drain pump from its housing by releasing the two side tabs and unscrewing two screws. I replaced the drain pump motor and the plug that closes the coin catch (like a gas tank cap on a car). I would have replaced the drain pump housing as well, but that part is not available for purchase. I put it all back together by just doing everything in reverse. Note: The WM3431 is NOT a machine that is easily accessed through the bottom, unlike many other LG washers. I tried that. After unscrewing MANY screws and trying to pry the bottom off, I discovered that it is constructed from the bottom up, making the bottom impossible (?) to remove. I gave up at this point. Another note: Reinstalling the wire/spring ring that holds the door seal in place is really not that bad. I did it solo (twice!), using a variety of kitchen utensils (butter knives and the handles of measuring spoons). If you have ever put a racing tire on the rim of a road bike, you'll figure out quickly how to work with the wire/spring. I have run the machine through a Rinse/Spin cycle, a Wash (but not dry) cycle, and a full Sanitary Wash + Dry cycle so far with the new drain pump. It appears to be working beautifully. And the clothes are coming out of the dryer scalding hot again. Previous to cleaning the dry and condensing ducts, the drying performance of my machine has declined noticeably.

Let me tell you all a "little" story! I had bought my LG all-in-one washer and dryer from Home Depot only 9 months ago for about $1600.00. One day it decided that it was not going to drain and I go the drain error code flashing on the unit. I checked the lint trap, as usual, and nothing seemed to be causing it to be plugged. I called LG, as it was still under the original 1 year warranty. After talking to them, they realized that our "Podunk area" was not in their service area. They told me that I could take the unit to Bloomington (2 hours away) and they would service it there. Are you serious? My husband and I have 8 kids. My husband is a paramedic and has very nasty clothes some mornings when he comes home that need washed immediately. They told me basically to take the clothes to the laundry mat because there was nothing they could do. We called Home Depot, as we bought it there to see if they could somehow help, and they were so much help. They fought with LG for us, as they are the ones that sold us their product. As it finally turns out (after 2 weeks of fighting with LG and buying a new Roper set on our own), LG refunded us back our money, told us that it was to far for them to drive to pick up their junk machine, and we can dispose of it for them. As it turns out, I was able to find the drain pump on your website for the amazing price and super fast shipping. I fixed our LG all-in-one washer and dryer in about 30 minutes. I ended up selling it after I fixed it, as I will NEVER buy another LG product in my life, but I will always continue to buy replacement parts from this company for any other item I may need to replace. Thank you so much for your company! I appreciate you so much!

First off I want to say Appliance Part Pros rock! I have used them for purchasing repair items for other appliances in the past, so when my washer started making weird noises this was my go to source. I thought my problem was likely pump motor related as the water wasn't draining and I could hear the sound of the pump trying to work. After reviewing what others who had similar situations found to be the problem I took a gamble and decided to get the drain pump. Some who had that problem decided to replace the recirculating pump at the same time. I chose to do this as well. Our washer was 10 years old, and since you have to basically take out both pumps at the same time (since they are connected to the lint trap) it was worth it. I figure it will be quite a while before I disassemble my washer like this again, and for and extra $50 to also get the recirculating pump it was worth it to know both were new and continue to function. I have to say the video for this was absolutely OUTSTANDING! It really did go step by step as to how to do this job. I kept the video pulled up on my iPad and just paused as necessary. My washer might have had an additional screw on the back side of the control panel not mentioned in the video, but that was it, otherwise it was exactly the same set up. The biggest challenge (if you want to call it that was getting the wire and spring back over the rubber door seal. For some reason my spring had rusted pretty bad. I simply put it on my bench grinder with a wire brush and buffed it all of and the spring was like new. I noticed that the hinge pin had worked itself about 1/3 of the way out on the wash door, so I pounded that back down. Those doors are fairly heavy, and that may be why I had a leak as it was not sitting correctly with the hinge pin partly out of place. One of the other maintenance steps I did while replacing these pumps was to clean the microfilters on the rear of the washer where the hoses attach. There is a small orange filter which can be removed with a pair of pliers on the HOT side. Mine had a bunch of debris and sediment in it. After 10 years of use about 3/4 of the filter was blocked. An old toothbrush helped get that clean again. Our COLD side was ok. I used new white pipe thread tape on the threads on both washer and supply valve sides for the hoses to ensure no leaks once everything got reconnected. All in all an easy repair and saved hundreds by not having to call out a repair tech. Parts arrived in 3 days on regular/economy delivery.

Superfast parts delivery. Got packages by the second day. Videos were extremely helpful and well done; we couldn't have done without them although we came across slight differences in our machine and found workarounds. Our machine did not drain the water so I drained the water manually via drain tube at bottom of the machine and checked the filter for blockage. All clear so I read articles on the internet and watched videos and took a chance on replacing the drain pump and circulating motor which was advised by others. Taking apart the machine was easy until we got to removing the drain pump motor. Ours was bolted down and hard to get to due to the tub assembly but husband managed. The circulating pump housing didn't exactly match the new part so husband rigged it by cutting off slightly the back of it. We took pictures along the way so we knew how to put things back together. The original drain pump hose clamp didn't work as smoothly as on video and husband replaced ours with clamp that had screws instead. Putting the machine back together was easy and even the door wire around the boot was easy with 2 people helping. If you have only 1 person then you probably need the special piers to open the spring up which is an expensive tool. Thank god for another review that said they use zip ties at each end of the clamp and one person would pull that open while another slip in the wire around the tub. So this part of the fix came easy for us. At the same time, we also replaced the door lock switch and that was easy. I just did 9 loads of wash with no problems. Even though it took over 2 hours it was so worth it, else we would have bought a new washer. The 2 pumps were like $100. This job would have cost like $800 if the repairman did it. We are extremely happy! and would have done it again.