Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Limiter by Frigidaire

Hello David. You need to check and see if the temp switch 134398500 is broke. If the switch is broke, it can cause the issues you are having with the unit.

Julie, The APP representative, could be correct. If you're sure the breakers are reset and locked, and there are no loose connections or wires at the terminal block on the back of the machine(where the power cord attaches) then the door switch 08006623 and thermal fuse 134120900 are the next checks to make. The door switch is on the neutral leg of the power supply, if theres no neutral to the timer or motor, the dryer won't start and the electrical switches, etc. won't operate. The Thermal fuse is located on the back cabinet wall, if it is "open" the power to the motor is eliminated and the dryer motor won't start or run. We're sending you some additional information, that should help you out. Thanks and Good Luck

Hi Pam. Your hi limit/safety thermostat and Thermal fuse are both located on the heater element housing on the back of the drum assembly at approximately the 1 or 2 o'clock position when you raise the dryer top. See the link provided. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5530319. The regulating thermostat 134048800 is located in the lower front left corner of the cabinet, mounted on the exhaust blower housing. You'll need to remove the dryer front panel and door assembly(s) to access it. Thank You.

M., Very good deduction, Yes, based on your post description, the Thermal limiter could have "opened" due to the excessive heat and would have shut power off, into the dryer. If you have a multi meter you can check across the terminals of the limiter for a closed circuit. Good Luck and Thanks

Ron, Yes the E68 error code would indicate a stuck panel button, or a faulty control board. An easy check, slowly and carefully press each buttonn and listen and feel for the button to operate properly when pressed in and released.You can also remove the top , control board and control panel, and check the buttons, springs and actuators for damage and operation. here's some help :Removing the top panel: 1. The top panel is held in place in the front by (3) plastic tabs on the console and (2) metal tabs,one on each side,and (2) screws In the rear. 2. Remove the (2) screws, slide the top back about 1/2 inch and lift the top off. Removing the temp knob: 1. The temp knob has a D shaped shaft. To remove pull the knob streight off.Removing the console: 1. Disconnect the dryer from electrical supply and remove the top panel. 2. Remove the (4) screws, (2) on each side, holding the console to the front panel and roll the console forward. 3. Disconnect the wiring from the control board and lift the console off. Removing the control board: 1. Disconnect the dryer from electrical supply, remove theTemp knob and the top panel. 2. Remove the console. 3. Remove the (5) screws holding the control board to the console. 4. Release the (2) tabs at the bottom and the (3) tabs at the top and lift the control board out. Removing the programing buttons and springs: 2. Lift the buttons and springs out of the console. 3. The buttons are not all the same. Each button has a Roman numeral stamped into it and the console has Roman numeral above the button slot. Match the number on to button to the number on the slot." If the buttons and springs are OK and you don't find any damage or debris causing the issue, then consider the control board 134523200NH . Thanks and Good Luck

Hello Ddazzle007. The thermal fuse should open around 190° on the dryer. Hope this helps.

Hi Dan. Usually a over heat issue will open any thermostat. Since you have cleared the vent system, have you also checked the vent cap to see if it is opening and closing completely and freely. So the rain or the night dew will not back up and re-clog the vent . Are there any sags that will collect the water in the lowest sag and back up with lint? If the heating element is expanded and contracted long enough, it will get weak and eventually touch chassis grounding the element out. Then it will draw too much current and open the fuse part # 134120900. Conversley it can be possible that the cycling thermostat inner contacts can be getting sticky and welding itself together little by little overtime allowing the heater to get too hot. Thinking in terms that will allow the heater to remain on too long. The motor centrifugal switch contacts can also get sticky and do the same as well. The heat circuit "passes" through the motor when the switch closes as the motor is at least at 40% sppeed. Concentrate on the heater diagnose first. This part is # 131553900 . Thank You.

Hi Mechanic. There are sensor bars inside the lint screen incoming vent. You need to look inside the tub and look back at the lint ray and see the 2 parallel sensor bars. 3/8" wide x 4 or 5" long with a slight curve. They will monitor the moisture in the clothes as they pass by the bars. They send the electrical information to a sensor control board behind the control panel. Over time especially with using dryness fabric sheets, they will become built up with residue not allowing the sensing dry circuit to advance. Take a scotchbrite pad and scuff- up the bars. Then try it . If this still does not work, then you need to insure the wires in between the sensor bars and the control board are not the issue. The Control board is part # 134216300. Thank You.

Hi Victor. The cycling thermostat mounted on the front of the blower controls the on/off cycling the temperature of the element. If It is not operating normally, it will effect the heating. It should read closed and the inner (smaller) resister terminals read approx. 10 K ohms at room temperature. If it is the thermistor type, it should read 50 K ohms at 77 °. The cycling thermostat is part # 134048800. The heater should ohm out to 12 ohms. If is is been restricted air flow the element will expand and contract enough to partially short out during heat. This can be an issue to observe as well. You will see a very black out area where the element has touched the case momentarily. The heater element is part # 131553900. Thank You.

Hi Tabatha. Are you positive you are getting proper 240 vac supply? Make sure you have 120 vac from black(L-1) and red(L-2) to white (neutral) also. On the inside of the cabinet above the terminal block is a thermal limiter. Part # 134120900. It should ohm 0-ohms (or closed). On the top, RT. of the heater there is a Safety thermostat that needs to be checked also, part # 3204267. If the heater is good (12-32 ohms) and not shorted part # 131553900, then the motor switch has to be closed and up to speed to send the 120 vac to the heater circuit. Motor part # 131560100. There is a thermistor in the front of the blower hsg. It needs to ohm out at 50,000 ohms at 77°. Thermistor part # 134587700. Thank You.