Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Limiter by Frigidaire

Hello Curt, The E63 error code indicates that Heater to earth ground. Check your heater coils and connections for short circuits to cabinet. Look for damaged wires, check to make sure that the heater coil is not touching the burner box.

Kevin, The thermistor resistance is in range(50K ohms at room temp.) The limiter and hi limit thermostat should have "closed" (000)circuits across the terminals not side to side. You will also need to check the door switch circuit ( COM orange to NO tan should be a closed circuit, with the door closed). If sall checks OK, you'll need to check for 120 VAC into the control board on J4-2,J2-1 and COM. Then check for 120 VAC out of the control board at J4-1 Gray, and NO Black, be very careful when conducting the voltage checks.

Hello Tom, We will need your model number to help you with this. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

Hello Diana. You do not remove the back. You release the clips under the top and remove the front panel to access and test the thermal fuse. Make sure the power is disconnected before doing the repair. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Cliff, This is most often caused by a restricted dryer exhaust. Think of it this way: The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. When there is too much restriction on the exhaust duct such as a crimp, clog, or excessively long duct, the duct presents too much back pressure and the pressure blows past the dryer drum seals right back into the cabinet. The cabinet of the unit is used as the air intake, so the result is the recirculation of the heat, lint, and moisture. If you recirculate the moisture, it is passed right back across the clothes, extending the dry time, increasing the utility bill, and wearing the unit out prematurely since it is having to run too long to dry the clothes. Check out the exhaust duct and I'm sure you will locate the cause of the issue.

Hello Leslie. Unplug the wires going to the element. Then test and see which wire is dead. Trace that wires until you find voltage. That will show you the bad part on the unit. Be careful as you are dealing with testing live power and this is very dangerous. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hi. This indicated the Auto Dry cycle selected. It will be advantageous to find the supplied tech sheet inside the cabinet to aid you in the diagnosis. It allows you to put the unit in a diagnostic mode which brings up fault codes and tells you which circuit needs assistance. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Thank You.

Craig, You don't need to remove the front of the dryer. You do have to remove the top. "Removingthe thermal limiter: (Electric dryers)1. Disconnect the dryer from electrical supply and remove the top panel. 2. Disconnect the (2)wires and remove the(2) screws holding limiter to the rear panel." "Removing the top panel: 1. The top panel is held in place in the front by (3) plastic tabs on the console, (2) metal tabs (one on each side), and (2) screws In the rear. 2. Remove the (2) screws, slide the top back about 1/2 inch and lift the top off."

Hi Lorie. Use a volt/ohm meter part # MA-DM1 to assist you in your diagnostics. Measure the resistance of the heater at the terminals (with the wires unhooked). Then measure each terminal to the chassis ground checking for a short. Look at the element to see if it has expanded and gotten lazy (created by an over heat issue, vent restriction). Once the element is overheated, it will get saggy and short under normal heat conditions. The heater restring kit is part # 5300622034.For the insulators order 131472100. The complete heater /housing is part # 131553900. Now @ the motor part # 131560100. Look to see if the blower wheel part # 131967600 is dragging inside the blower housing. Clean the motor windings of lint build up and failing in the motor cooling fan effort. Use the wiring diagram behind the timer area and see if any motor winding's are shorted to the motor chassis or ground. Is the motor armature dragging? Are the motor bearings dragging? Also make sure the dryer terminal block nuts are tight. Thank You.

Hello Thomas. If you turn the timer and press it to start, and it just makes a buzzing sound, you will need to replace the timer 131905500 in the unit.