Linty March 28, 2013 for Model Number KENMORE 417.81142000 Recently dryer seems on high heat regardless of setting . Good airflow from vent . Drum is turning and no unusual noises Back of dryer--high middle- is too hot to touch and paint looks heat discolored . Thanks for the help .
1 Answer Linty, You will want to check the air flow to the outside of home and make sure that there is no clog. If there is a clog it will cause overtemps in the unit. If the venting checks ok then you would need a new cycling thermostat [134048800]. Read More...
Ben G December 09, 2012 for Model Number glet1041as1 My dryer decided to not turn on at all. The washer part of it workds fine but the dryer will not do anything. I recently relplaced the heating element which had what I believe to be a thermostat in it but It looks like there is one on the blower tube. The door switch tested fine also. What else could I check the thermastat on the vent tubing looks like it has two parts to it.
1 Answer Hello Ben, The first thing you want to do is to check your dryer venting to make sure that the vent is not clogged. Check from blower wheel all the way to the outside of home. Once you make sure it is clean then you want to do a continuity check across the thermal fuse or thermostat on the blower housing. If this reads open then you need to replace the thermostat 3204267. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Slam September 19, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 I reconnected the high limit thermostat so that I could check the power to it as it has did or didn't cycle. After I had turned the dryer on, the coil began to cycle properly. It would stay on for 15-20 seconds, then cycle off for the same amount of time; for which it then came back on for the same amount of time. It continued this cycle and after about 20 minutes, I decided that my issue had miraculously been solved. I washed and added the washed load to the dryer. It dried them perfectly. I added a 2ndload washed load. After about 15 minutes, I began to smell an electrical burn. I ran to the dryer to find my wall smoking! I shut the dryer off and unplugged it. After an hour, I plugged the dryers back in, turned the heat setting to its lowest, and restarted the load. After about 10 minutes, the smoke returned in the plug and this time it tripped the breaker. Now, it simply throws the breaker each time I start it. Help! I've already invested in a heater coil (stated in initial post) or I would just buy a new or used dryer. Help!!!
1 Answer Hello Slam. It sounds like the problem has became a direct short and now you need to take the unit apart and look for the shorted part in the unit. You should see where the part is melted to ground. Read More...
Slam September 09, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 So if the high limit is reading closed with no power to it, then it must be my timer?
1 Answer Hello Slam. No, if the high limit is reading closed, it can start to break down under load conditions and cause the unit to fail in heating properly. That is why it was suggested to test when running and see if it continues to feed AC power and break AC power. This is dangerous due to a live power test and you need to use caution here. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Slam August 27, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 Expert Answer: "Hello Slam. Lets test the high limit. Your model does not use the board, so either the timer or the temperature switch will be the culprit. To test the high limit. Use an meter and see when it open and breaks voltage to the heater. The see if it closes and the voltage returns. If not, disconnect the power and test for continuity and see if it reads closed. If so, high limit is bad and needs replaced. If it is opening and closing properly, either the timer, or temperature switch is bad and needs to be replaced on the unit." The high limit thermostat tested closed without power feeding to it. Did I understand the above answer in the fact that if the hight limit thermostat tested closed without power then it is bad? If I misunderstood that, please correct me. Thank you!
1 Answer Hello Slam. No, the high limit should read closed without power going to it. It is testing good on the unit. Read More...
Slam August 24, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 "Hello Slam. That sounds like a control board issue if the thermostat are testing closed. It sounds like the relay on the control board is bad and you will need to replace the board in the unit." May I have an item number for said control board? Also, I took off the high limit thermostat/fuse (T-O-D60T21). It rattles on the inside when shaken, if that matters.
1 Answer Hello Slam. Lets test the high limit. Your model does not use the board, so either the timer or the temperature switch will be the culprit. To test the high limit. Use an meter and see when it open and breaks voltage to the heater. The see if it closes and the voltage returns. If not, disconnect the power and test for continuity and see if it reads closed. If so, high limit is bad and needs replaced. If it is opening and closing properly, either the timer, or temperature switch is bad and needs to be replaced on the unit. Read More...
Slam August 24, 2012 for Model Number Frigidaire Gallery I asked thequestion about the element and the high limit thermostat: "My dryer quit heating so I ordered a new element, thinking that was the problem. I installed the element, even though the old one was intact. After reconnecting everything, the dryer will heat up (I can hold the door swith and see it glowing) for 20-30 seconds. After that, the element shuts off. The drum still turns. After resting a few minutes, the same process is repeated with the same end result. I feel it is a thermostat of sorts but this one has 3. However, I could be wrong. Help me, please!" Once the element cuts off, it wont come back on until I turn the dryer off and let it sit. After sitting a few minutes, I can turn it back on and the element comes back on.....for 20-30 seconds. The element once again goes of and doesn't come back on until I turn the dryer off and let it sit. In essence, my clothes don't dry because the element only comes one for a single 20-30 second period during cycle. Once again, I have replaced the element so it is new. What is my problem?
1 Answer Hello Slam. That sounds like a control board issue if the thermostat are testing closed. It sounds like the relay on the control board is bad and you will need to replace the board in the unit. Read More...
Desparate August 23, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 My Frigidaire Gallery dryer quit drying a week or so back. The motor and timer works but it quit producing heat. I assumed it was the element so I ordered a new element and installed it. Afer connecting everyting and plugging it back up, I turned it on to test it. It heated up for about 20-30 seconds and then stopped heating. The motor and timer continued to run. I let it sit for a few minutes and then tried it again with the door open, holding the door switch. I saw the element begin to glow and get brighter; however, after 20-30 seconds the element went dark. A clicking sound was heard just before the element went off. I turned the dryer off and let it sit for a few minutes and tried again, getting the same result. I pulled the high limit fuse/thermostat (T-O-D60T21), since it seemed to be the next thing in line to check, and tested it. It tests as closed with my meter, but you can shake it and hear light rattling inside. Is this my problem, could this be my problem, or is there other/another possibility(ies)? Help me, please! Thanks, Desparate
1 Answer Hello. The dryer should cycle the heater on and off, that is normal. Try running the dryer for 15 minutes and see if the heater cycles on and off. If so, the unit is good. If it didnt cycle, you would have a fire hazzard. Read More...
Slam August 23, 2012 for Model Number GLER341AS2 My dryer quit heating so I ordered a new element, thinking that was the problem. I installed the element, even though the old one was intact. After reconnecting everything, the dryer will heat up (I can hold the door swith and see it glowing) for 20-30 seconds. After that, the element shuts off. The drum still turns. After resting a few minutes, the same process is repeated with the same end result. I feel it is thermostat of sorts but this one has 3. However, I could be wrong. Help me, please!
1 Answer Hello Slam. Based on the information you provided, the element is working properly. It should cycle on and off during the drying cycle. Read More...
Brian August 13, 2012 for Model Number GLEQ942CS0 My Frigidaire Gallery Dryer is not producing heat. I went thru the Diagnostics and the Heating Element heats up. It was recommended to me that I replace the Control Board. I bought one, and replaced it. However, it did not fix the issue. The only thing left is to replace the Thermostat, as I can see it. Is there ANY other thing that could cause the Heating Coil to not work under normal conditions, but to work fine when running Diagnostics?
1 Answer Hello Brian. The thermistor 134587700 can prevent the dryer from heating properly. You need to test and make sure the thermistor is good on the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...