Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer High-Limit Thermostat by Frigidaire

Hello Steve1147. It could be the high limit or the cycling thermostat, but if the unit is overheating and shutting off, then needs to cool to restart, it sounds more like a motor 5303937189 issue and you may have a grounded element keeping the element turned on in the unit. The motor will need to be replaced, and you will need to check and see if the element is grounded. If so, replace it as well in the unit.

Hello Jim. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the control board 134484212 is bad and will need to be replaced on the unit.

Hello Paul, Since the full model number wasn't listed, I'm actually studying three wiring diagrams. As far as I can tell, the thermostat has nothing to do with the motor running. I'm afraid the timer has burned contacts. The only other things in the circuit are the motor, the door switch, and the thermal limiter. The thermal limiter has to be good or you would never hear the timer motor running. The same with the door switch. All it can be is the motor, the timer, or a bad connection that can't carry the current flow. Check the wiring for any discoloration. Many times when a component fails, the excessive current flow will cause the insulation to discolor. Another thing to try is unplugging the timer and motor and reconnecting in case a poor electrical connection is present in one of those locations. Otherwise, all you can do is ohm out the motor and, if you can figure out the time chart on the technical sheet on the unit, you can check the timer contacts. Also you need to check the exhaust duct as the air flow is not only necessary for proper clothes drying, but the air flow is also detrimental to the units' longevity.

Hello Chris, The thermostat will not cause the circuit breaker to trip unless it is shorted to ground. Normally a thermostat will just go open, which will not trip a breaker. I would first check the terminal block, (where the pigtail cord connects to the unit), and your receptacle. If the unit is heating at all, the thermostats and heating element are fine. The problem may be in your exhaust duct. Many people will argue about this but if the duct is too long, restricted, or crimped off, it's the same as stopping up the exhaust. You see, the issue with this is the fact that if the exhaust can't exit the appliance, it will simply blow past the felt drum seals and re-enter the cabinet where it will trip the thermostats off, put a layer of lint on everything in there, and cause a premature failure. Let us know if we can assist further.

Hello Nancy. You will need to replace the limiter again and check and see if the vent is kinked or clogged. If so, this will cause the issue you are having.

Hello James. The PF code is power failure. Check for loose or broken wires. If there is none, replace the control board 134523200NH. Hope this helps.

Hi Brian. The cord is replaced by the following criteria. You need a cord strain relief also so it don't pull loose creating issues. It is part # []. You follow the 3- Eye connectors to the terminal block and hook the left eye to the left terminal (L-1), the center eye to the center terminal (Neutral), the right eye to the right terminal (L-2). Then use 6 brass nuts total. The first will snug the connection tight so it does not break the terminal block. Then use the top nut as a lock nut to insure no loose connections in the future. Have a Qualified Electrician to inspect the house supply 240 vac to insure you are getting proper voltage at the house plug and that the outlet female terminals have not spread open and you have lost or burnt cord, or a bad outlet. On the back wall of the inside of the heater element, there is a thermal fuse part # 134120900. It is on the left of the terminal block. On the top RT. side of the heater can is a Thermostat it is part # 3204267. The element is part # 131553900, it should read closed at 11-18 ohms. Not open or infinite. Thank You.

Nicholas, This is a single throw, single pole thermostat, The wiring won't make a difference, as long as they're the correct wires. Thanks and Good Luck

Hello Ronnie! This answer was located on our Repair Forum, this is a free service in which technicians will assist with answering repair questions for our customers. Please use this link to assist in your repair. Hope this helps, thanks! http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/dryer-repair/247828-dryer.html

Dd, First reset the dryer breakers several times, and check for 240 VAC at the outlet and terminal block on the back of the dryer, once you get the meter working. All the thermostats and your limiter will check ok if they have a "closed" circuit. and as long as you're in the area, check the heating element terminals for a closed circuit as well. Don't forget to circuit check the regulating thermostat, located on the front of the blower housing. Thanks and Good Luck