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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Main Control Board by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM21564309
Manufacturer Part Number: WR55X10942C

Fix a refrigerator that won't cool or has temperature control issues with this main control board. Moderately difficult repair, taking 15-45 minutes.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Refrigerator Main Control Board (Part Number: OEM21564309)

Annette

I have a GE side by side refrigerator GSS23QGTA WW and the defrost mechanism is not working properly. I replaced the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater and frig works properly until the frost builds up again. When I got the defrost heater it was a duel heater instead of the single one that was the original. I originally connected the electrical ends to the original connections in the freezer and disconnected the yellow wires that came with the unit. When that did not work I saved the yellow wires and reconnected them, after again defrosting the frig again. Again cool properly, begins to make ice again and within a couple of days ice begins to build up again. That fan seems to be working because I will feel heat discharged at the kick plate.

1 Answer

Annette, If you disconnected the yellow jumper wire that was between the heating coils and connected the wire directly to just one of the elements then the issue will end up being a bad heater. The new heater is designed as a dual heater and must be used that way otherwise the single element will burn out. If this is not the case then you need to test the defrost thermistor that is at the top of the evaporator. The thermistor at 0 degrees should be 42.2k ohms of resistance. If this checks ok then the main control board would be the issue.

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Steven for Model Number GSS20IETAWW

Noticed refrigerator compartment was warm. Checked freezer coils and there was ice all over them. Replaced defrost thermister, and upper thermometer in freezer. Noticed that the defrost heater coil was broken. Replaced defrost heater and thought it was fixed. Checked on it again and it was icing up again. I looked closer at the defrost heater and noticed it was broken again. Had a spare and replaced it again. Set the settings to put the unit into defrost mode. Checked and the heater was red hot. About 5 minutes later checked the heater again and noticed once again the heater coil was broken. I guess my question is where do I go from here, and could it be because I bought an after market defrost heater vs the more expensive one from GE?

1 Answer

Steven, It is possible that the after market heater would be an issue and would fail quicker although that is not always true. The best option would be to replace the heater with the GE heater part number WR51X10101.

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Richard for Model Number PSI23MGMABB

So I have the apparently common situation of ice maker working fine but no water (light illuminates when pressed). Determined it wasn't a freezing/blockage issue and ultimately figured it might be the secondary valve. Replacement valve did not help. It does appear the solenoids are getting powered upon lever press but no water is flowing (well maybe a dribble out of the valve. Checked the electrical connection under the front plate seems fine. Is their a voltage I can test on the secondary valve to confirm it is the main board? Could it be anything else?

1 Answer

Hello Richard, If the fresh food compartment temperature is set too warm, the cold air will settle to the bottom and back feed into the fresh food compartment at the bottom because of a lack of air circulation. This will freeze the water reservoir and prevent water from flowing out properly since there is sometimes a chunk of ice in it and it will flow pretty good for the first few seconds then slow down again. Blow a hair dryer at the water reservoir for about 15 minutes and try it again. If it flows good, set the freezer to a warmer setting and the fresh food side colder. I know this seems backwards but it will increase air circulation and prevent the colde air migration that is causing ther issue.

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1 Answer

Latherio, This issue would not be caused by a faulty main control board but would be an issue with the display board. The part number for the display board is WR55X10172.

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1 Answer

Hillbilly, To correct the water leak it would need to have a new water valve. For the harness to the main control board, unfortunately the harness is not available as a separate part. The harness is part of the cabinet of the unit.

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Stan S for Model Number ZFSB26DNDSS

Reference to earlier question on control Board possibly causing the fresh food compartment dropping to 23 degrees even though its set on 35 or 36. I changed the upper sensor and no help. Since there was no help, could it be the lower sensor? I thought I would try replacing that sensor with the upper one I had changed out. Haven't done so yet. Another problem that's existed since the problem started is the 3lb thaw light will not remain off after its reset. It turns off while the door is open but when I shut the door and reopen it, it's back on. What you think? Could the lower sensor be causing both problems? Thanks, Stan

1 Answer

Hello Stan. Since the board reads both sensors, yes it could be the lower one causing the issue. If both are new, then replace the board.

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Steven E for Model Number PSS25NGNAWW

The refrigerator's lights come on and fan circulates air when plugged in. I then digitally set the temperature for the freezer and refrigerator on the touchpad inside the refrigerator. I set the Freezer to about 0F and the refrigerator to 34 F. Within 5 seconds these settings revert to room temperature and no cooling occurs. The freezer is about 10 years old but is only used about 5 months per year in the summer. Last year it was stored in an unheated house during the winter where the temps got down to 10 F. This is all I know

1 Answer

Steven, You will want to check to see if the compressor is running. If it is not then pull the start relay off and check to see if it rattles. If it rattles the start relay is bad and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Hello Stan, The control can cause it but you should always check the temperature sensors WR55X10025 first since they are always the first suspect.

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Brian Long for Model Number HSS25GFTAWW

replaced water inlet solenoid for ice maker/water dispenser. water dispenses fine however the side for the ice maker doesn't want to open. i disconnected the molded plug and tested it with a multi- meter-it reads 105 to 109 on the voltage. when i connect it back to the solenoid and test it by touching the tabs i get no voltage reading at all. disconnected molded plug and applied power to solenoid using an external power cord at a voltage of 115. solenoid opened fine and began to feed water to the ice maker. is the solenoid not getting enough voltage from the mother board to open the solenoid ? thanks for your help

1 Answer

Brian, Based on the information provided it sounds like the issue is with the main control board not sending voltage to the water valve.

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1 Answer

Hello Rob, This is either going to be an issue with the dispenser board or the main board. If you test at the main board for 13Vdc terminal J4-2 to ground, you should read the voltage. If not there, replace the main board WR55X10942C. If the voltage is there, replace the dispenser board WR55X10517.

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