Nathan January 17, 2014 for Model Number PSS26NGPABB GE PSS26NGPABB making a ticking noise. Ticks 6 times and stops. Does it again in 30 min or a few hours. Nothing seems to be not working. Timing seems inconsistent. Maybe separate issue or root cause; Ice maker has been having problem for a long time because one tooth on flip separator bar is broken and occasionally a cube sticks. Maybe related but seems to be making ice. Have not been able to catch noise to localize to a part of the refrigerator.
1 Answer Hello Nathan. Try unplugging the icemaker and see if the noise goes away. If so, you will need to replace the icemaker in the unit. Read More...
Jim J January 13, 2014 for Model Number GE # GSL25JFXBLB My fresh food section is freezing my food and my ice is clumping together like it is partially melting and then refreezing. I have checked the damper door and it moves freely. I have also checked thermistors with ohmeter and they are within tolerances. When I run the GE self diagnostics, it tells me that 2 of the 5 thermistors fail the self test, even though I have proved they are OK with the ohmeter.. It says thermistor # 1 and # 5 are bad. I replaced # 1 with a brand new one with no change in results. I'm thinking motherboard at this time after reading a few of your other Q&A posts regarding the ice clumps and the defrost cycle staying on to long? I am a competent electrical guy, any other tests that you know of to tell me if I'm on the right track?
Dan January 08, 2014 for Model Number PSS27SGRESS I had a cooling issue (the inside light went out and the refriderator temperature wnet up to 50+ while the freezer was OK) and water/ice delivery(water inconsistant and no ice what so ever) issue with my GE refriderator model PSS27SGRESS. Based on forums and other data, I replaced the motherboard and the water valve. For about a day or two the refridgerator worked great with no issues.Today the refiderator is having the same cooling issues again (except the refriderator light is still on now), I have checked the door switches and they are OK and there is no excess frost built up in the freezer. The little bit of research I've done says to replace the temperature control panel, but I don't want to just throw parts at it since that is over $100 on your site. I'd like to be fairly sure that is what needs to be replaced.
1 Answer Dan, You should check the thermistors in the refrigerator compartment to make sure that they are good. The resistance values are as follows: at 77 degrees 10K ohms, 37 degrees 14.4K ohms, 0 degrees would be 42.2K ohms. If not within range then you would want to replace the thermistor. Also check to make sure that the damper door at the upper left of the refrigerator compartment is not stuck closed which would also cause the issue. If all this checks ok then the display board would be the issue. You can check the thermistors from the main control board. Read More...
Billy January 05, 2014 for Model Number gss22jemc Both sides of frig quit cooling. Water dispenser works, fan works. I've replaced the defroster heater before. I took the panel off the back of freezer (inside)and saw no ice at all.
1 Answer Hello Billy. If the compressor is not running, you need to check the board. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/40883-ge-refridge-nothing-works-but-light.html Read More...
Marty January 04, 2014 for Model Number GE PSI23NGNA WW The custom cool drawer no longer works and express chill no longer works. When the express chill is pressed the fan comes on but the drawer does not get colder. Is there a damper to the freezer that might be jammed or a control that has given out. Thanks for your help. Marty
1 Answer Marty, Most likely the damper assembly for the express chill has failed and would need to be replaced. The part number for the damper assembly is WR60X10062. Read More...
Bao T January 01, 2014 for Model Number pss25mgma ww Both side of my refrigerator are number 9 (coldest), I could not input to decrease (go down) to number 3 (warm). maybe electronic board is problem. And fresh food section is freeze (make ice) so I think defrost themos (censor) is not work.
1 Answer Bao, For the issue with the refrigerator section getting too cold you will want to take the duct assembly out of the unit and check the air damper that is in the duct assembly. Check to make sure that the door on the damper is not broken. If broken then you will need to replace part number WR49X10091. With not being able to input temp change then the issue with the display would most likely be a control board issue WR55X10172. Read More...
James December 28, 2013 for Model Number gss25pgmfcc Is there a defrost timer on GE model GSS25PGMFCC or is it built into the mother board?
1 Answer Hello James. The defrost timer is made into the mother board WR55X10942C on the unit. Read More...
Chuck December 23, 2013 for Model Number GSLL22JFREBS The ice maker works but it will not dispense water or ice. On the panel only the water lights up.
1 Answer Chuck, You will want to check the wire harness connection at the bottom of the door to ensure that there is not a broken or loose wire. If this checks ok then the most likely cause of failure would be the dispenser control board. Read More...
David A. December 20, 2013 for Model Number GE Arctica model PSC23SSNA I have a GE side by side Arctica model PSC23SSNA 2002 and am having problems with the ice maker. It cycles but over flows and does not properly eject the ice. I changed the ice maker unit and it did not help. Do I need a new control panel? What ese could be wrong?
1 Answer Hello David, If the ice maker has been changed and it still over fills, the issue will either be the water pressure to the unit or the water inlet valve WR57X33326 has failed. Read More...
Matt December 15, 2013 for Model Number GSS25PSM BS My refrigerator compressor will not run. The condensing fan runs just fine. Power coming into the board at 120v to the line terminal, but with the thermostat set to it's coldest setting no power is being supplied to the compressor terminal, which results in no power to the compressor itself. I can jump from line to compressor and it will start/run/cool with no problems. Also when I first plug it in I can hear a click which I assume to be the relay. Is this a bad board? I cannot find a wiring diagram which would help tremendously.