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Customer Questions and Answers for Compressor Inverter Board by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM18998775
Manufacturer Part Number: WR87X29409

The Compressor Inverter Board is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. It controls the operation of the compressor, adjusting its speed to optimize cooling efficiency and energy consumption. This component is crucial for maintaining consistent temperatures inside the refrigerator and ensuring smooth, reliable performance.

Causes of a bad compressor inverter board can include electrical surges, overheating, or component failure due to wear and tear. When the inverter board malfunctions, it can lead to inadequate cooling and increased energy usage.

Symptoms of a bad Compressor Inverter Board include:

  • Refrigerator not cooling properly
  • Unusual noises coming from the compressor
  • The compressor running continuously or not running at all
  • Error codes or flashing lights on the control panel

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Compressor Inverter Board (Part Number: OEM18998775)

1 Answer

John, Unfortunately there is no way to jump the inverter board on your unit. You can test for power into the inverter but cannot jump the inverter.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve. It sounds like the mother board is not supplying the correct voltage to the unit. You will need to replace the mother board in the unit.

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Sam for Model Number ziss480drjss

I had to replace the inverter (WR49X10283) which is next to the compressor. It looks like the inverter was overheated as the casing near the compressor is brownish vs the original putty color. Now that the unit is working again, the compressor temperature seems very hot to me. I inserted a kitchen thermometer probe between the compressor housing and the inverter. After letting it sit about 15 minutes, the kitchen thermometer registered a temperature of 180F (about 83C). What is the ambient operational temperature range for the inverter WR49X10283? I am concerned that the compressor is hotter than it should be and the inverter will not last very long. Thanks so much. Sam

1 Answer

Hello Sam, The temperature of the compressor should be warm as compared to room temperature. If the condenser fan is running and the hot coils are free of dust, and it is still running hot, it is an indication of a partial restriction of the sealed system. There isn't anything that can be done short of a sealed system repair. The filter/drier, heat exchange assembly, compressor, and evaporator would have to be replaced to clear the issue completely. Gauges can be put on the unit to verify that the low side pressure is too low and the high side pressure is too high but that is about all that can be done to verify that an issue exists. This would require a Freon certified technician since there are federal laws in place where Freon handling is concerned.

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Doug for Model Number PSH25MGTABV

My issue is the fresh food side won’t cool properly. History of the unit and repairs. Since summer time 2012, the freezer would bounce between 0-10 on a normal basis, and the fridge was usually 42-49, with the temp controls set at 0 and 37. Finally got tired of food spoiling, and decided to start tearing into it. Through research, found a bad defrost heater element, one end was burnt. Replaced, and started keeping a very close eye on temps now. Freezer improved, but fresh food side did not. Took the next logical plunge, and replaced the system board. A week or so later, fridge went bezerk, started running all the time, temps displayed were 20 freezer and 80 fresh food. At the same time, everything in the fridge was freezing, which is what causes me now to be baffled, as I know it has the ability to keep things cold to the point of freezing them. Found it to be a bad fresh food thermistor, located in the side wall of the fresh food compartment. Replaced it and when things got back to my normal, -3 to 10 freezer and 42-49 fresh food, I also replaced the same thermistor in the freezer section in the side panel. Things have not improved. I had stocked the fridge a week ago and the freezer, left the door closed for 48 hours and then checked temps, -3 freezer, and 45 fresh food. My only other thoughts are to replace the two remaining thermistors, and the defrost thermostat. I know the doors seal well, and I have even checked to make sure that the lights aren’t staying on causing it to heat up, and again, the fact I found from the bad thermistors, it has the ability to freeze food in the fresh food section, so something is telling it to not cool enough

Leslie for Model Number PFSS5NJWASS Serial# AR-317571

Hello, thanks for your response. What is the difference between the part I ordered WR55X11138 and WR49X10283 (the part you suggested)? How come when I enter my fridge model, it tells me to get the part that I ordered (WR55X11138)? I was able to eventually attach the part to my fridge, and the fridge now works. Is there a downfall to what I have done? All the power voltage, amps and numbers printed on the sticker of my WR55X11138 matched the original part that came out of the fridge. The only difference was the head of that one set of wires, which I ended up swapping out.

1 Answer

Hello Leslie! Unfortunately, we do not have the specs on each item to verify the difference in the two listed parts. We have spoken with GE regarding the issue and are showing that model PFSS5NJWASS uses inverter part number WR49X10283 (WR49X10283). Thanks.

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Milton C for Model Number zfsb23drg ss GE Monogram side by side

Fresh food and freezer not getting cold will not get below 40 in freezer and 56 in fresh food. Suspect inverter not supplying correct voltage to compressor inverter is receiving signal voltage from the main board at 5.02 volts dc. Inverter is supplying maximum of 111 volts at all 3 terminals - 3 phase - the voltage is identical between any combination of the 3 terminals. compressor ohm is 7 to 8 ohms between any combination of the terminals and infinite to ground. Compressor is running but appears to be slow in operational speed - laying hand on the compressor. Fan is operational on the condenser - condenser is very clean with no air circulation issues. I believe the 3 phase feed should be much higher at or near 270 volts when the conditions warrant maximum cooling ordered inverter overnight # AP5656683 Hope I'm right can you confirm?

1 Answer

Hello Milton, It does sound like the inverter board is stuck in slow cycle based on the information provided.

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1 Answer

Hello Khanh, If you have 120 vac coming in and only 70 coming out then you would have a bad inverter board. There should be no less than 120 coming out and can raise up to 230 vac.

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1 Answer

Hello Steve, The white tab with the blue wire will go to the center pin that is either up or down. The other 2 will line up according to the blue being in the right spot.

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1 Answer

Hello Chris, If we could please ask you to re-post with your model and serial number, we need to check the part you received for compatibility to your unit. A serial number change between the parts can mean the difference between a completed repair and non-compatibility.

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