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Customer Questions and Answers for Fan Kit by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM15993543
Manufacturer Part Number: WB26X10264

The Fan Kit is an OEM part for GE ovens and ranges. This part regulates the internal temperatures and preventing overheating.

Causes of a bad Fan Kit can stem from motor failure due to wear and tear, obstructions or debris blocking proper airflow, or damage to the fan blades or housing.

Symptoms of a bad Fan Kit include:

  • Excessive heat buildup inside the oven cavity
  • Failure of the oven to maintain consistent temperatures
  • Strange noises or lack of airflow from the fan

This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Fan Kit (Part Number: OEM15993543)

1 Answer

Mark, I would check to see if the fan is receiving the 120vac to the fan. If it has 120vac to the fan and the fan is not running then it is bad.

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1 Answer

Tom, You can test the resistance of the cooling fan and you would test red to white 33 ohms, black to white 27 ohms, and red to black 6.3 ohms. You can also test at the board to ensure that there is 120 Vac to the fan. To test the high speed you will test from neutral to the J8 pin 3, and for the low speed from Neutral to J8 pin 5 on the board.

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1 Answer

Ginger, if the model number of your appliance could be provided in a new question, this will allow the most accurate information to be presented.

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Rick for Model Number PT920SR1SS

My wall oven displays an F9-FAD error after setting to 400, runs for a while, and gets up to temperature. I do not hear the fan (which I have seen as a common problem). After cooling down and resetting the breaker, I can try again, but will eventually get the same error. When I get the F9 error, the door is not locked and I am thinking this is not the problem, If I am going to open it up, what needs to be replaced? I would rather fix all the potential parts while I have it open. Thanks

1 Answer

Maria, The cooling fan should come on when the temperature reaches approximately 150 degrees and then it will shut off when it gets back down to around that point. This is to keep the control panel from getting too hot and damage to occur.

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1 Answer

Scot, Based on the information provided I would recommend using a multimeter to check the switches you mention and to see if there is power getting to the cooling fan. It looks like from the wiring schematic that you should have 120vac to the fan when it is on. (grey wire to the white wire)

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1 Answer

Ben, with the power disconnected you may want to inspect the convection WB44T10086, bake WB44T10105, and broil WB44T10106 elements have a proper resistance and that they are not grounding out from the control. At the upper relay board, the elements can be tested by placing one probe of a meter at the DLB relay J7 wire (orange wire) and then placing the other probe at the following points: broil J6 (purple wire) for 24 ohms, bake J5 (yellow wire) for 26.62 ohms, and conv J10 ( blue wire) for 22.30 ohms. From there you will also want to test each of the relays to the metal frame for continuity to ensure there are no ground outs. If there is continuity, then there is a grounded wire or part that would need to be adressed. If this all check good, then the most likely issue would be with the high limit thermal switch WB24T10081 or fan air flow. If the fan does not start when temperatures start climbing, then the fan WB26X10264 will need to be tested for voltage. If there is not voltage, then the relay board WB27T11060 has failed. if the fan does receive voltage but does not operate, then the fan has failed.

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Jean for Model Number JTP30SP1SS

My GE oven turns itself OFF if at 400 degrees F for more than 30 min, or I try to put it into Self-Clean mode and it also displays "locked door" on the control panel. I do not see an error code. I do not hear a cooling fan turn on either and the control panel gets quite warm. I suspect the cooling fan be involved, but how do I know whether I need to replace the limit switches or the entire cooling fan assembly? And do I need to replace the electronic locking mechanism for automatically locking the door? Thanks, Jean

1 Answer

Jean, This issue would most likely be a issue with the limit switch which can be tested for continuity when it gets to 150 degrees. If the limit switch checks ok then the issue will be a fan motor that is faulty and this fan not running could trigger the door to lock when it should not.

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1 Answer

Ed, You would need to remove the oven from the wall in order to access and replace the fan kit.

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