Felipe September 19, 2013 for Model Number GSH25JFXL WW I need to order the heater bracket for this model but I need to know which one is the correct one because I cannot find it online with the exact model number? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Felipe. Based on the model number you provided, WR51X10055 is the correct heater and bracket assembly. Read More...
Sen H September 01, 2013 for Model Number GSS25JFMDWW The red wire connects to the defrost heater assembly got burn out and the wire connector is worn out. Is there any thing I can buy this to connect back to the new defrost heater? The blue wire connector looks ok to the defrost heater. Thanks! Sen
1 Answer Sen H. The only way that you would be able to replace the terminal would be to get a 1/8" female insulated connector to splice onto the existing wire. Read More...
Jen July 28, 2013 for Model Number GSH25JFTBB My freezer orange glow for the defrost is not there any more and its freezing up and fridges not staying cold . I've been manually dethawing it I Need to try n fix it I NEED HELP.
1 Answer Hello Jen. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Jenay July 28, 2013 for Model Number GSH25JFTBB My freezer keeps freezing up and the fridge is not staying cold I have no idea where to start but this is been going on since April and I'm sick of taking every thing out and putting a heater to unthaw my coils. I have a mulit meter just need to knw where to Start
1 Answer Hello Jenay. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Ron F July 15, 2013 for Model Number PSC23NSWASS I have a GE SxS fridge (PSC23NSWASS) which despite numerous repairs(see below) continues to have a problem with defrosting. I am assuming this because there is frost and ice droplets forming on the evaporative panel and the freezer temp rose to 4 (set at 0) and the fridge rose to 38(set a 34). This is always the pattern, in which I do a repair and manually defrost the coils and then after around 4-6 days, the problem with frost and rising temps occurs again. Repairs: I have replaced both temp sensors (WR55X10025) in the freezer, the defrost thermostat (WR50X10069) and the main board(WR55X10942). I tested the defrost heater with a multi-meter at room temperature and it read zero. Questions: 1) How to I really test the defrost heater? 2) why after the main board replacement is both the fridge and freezer temps going to 2 degrees both above and below their set temps? The old board did not do this I 'believe'. Note: I did clean the condensor with a brush and electrical parts cleaner. 3) what else could be wrong with this unit?
1 Answer Hello Ron. Look for a bad door gasket or broken dispenser flap. If both are good, then test the evaporator fan motor. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/4220-ge-refrigerators-gs-ps-models-evaporator-fan-motor-test-replacement.html Read More...
Johnathan July 09, 2013 for Model Number PSC25MSWA SS The water line that feeds the ice maker froze and no water will pass into the ice maker. Is there some heat trace on the line that keeps the water in the line from freezing?
1 Answer Hello Johnathan. No, you need to order and replace the water valve on the unit. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Don. For the model number provided, you will need to order part number WR51X10101. Read More...
Bobby June 20, 2013 for Model Number GSH 25JSTASS Ser# 220572 My evaporator coil is freezing up. Both the defrost limiter and heater assembly check what do you recommend checking next.
1 Answer Hello Bobby. If the heater and thermostat are good, you will need to order and replace the main control board WR55X10942C. Read More...
Roberto May 16, 2013 My refrigerator is a MOD.#HSS25GFPDWW freser is frosen ,Do I need the Heater coil or th defrost thermostat?
1 Answer Roberto, If the evaporator coils are impacted with ice you will want to do a continuity test on the defrost heater and thermostat. If either does not have continuity then it will need to be replaced. If both check ok then you will want to check the resistance of the defrost thermistor. If the thermistor checks ok then you would need a main control board. If the thermistor does not have proper reading then replace the thermistor. The thermistor resistance reading should be 42.5K ohm at 0 degrees. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Vjb May 10, 2013 for Model Number GSS25SGPA SS New defrost heater burned, melted gasket on left side. I recently first replaced defrost thermostat and then after that the defrost heater that I realized was burned out by looking at the smoke stained heating tube and broken wire coil inside it. The new defrost heater WR51X10055 that I put in began to smoke and melt after 1 day. I'm not sure the part was genuine GE as it only cost $18 on-line. I will now replace with a genuine GE part but do you think there could be something other than defrost heater that is the problem?
1 Answer Hello VJB, This sounds like a bad connection. You see, a point of high resistance, (loose connection), will build more resistance and cause more current flow. This produces heat and will burn out even a new component. When you replace the heater this time, make sure the connections on the spade connectors are tight and use either some grease or petroleum jelly on the connections to repel moisture, which will contribute to the situation. Read More...