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Customer Questions and Answers for Infinite Heat Switch Kit by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM20965440
Manufacturer Part Number: WB21X36771

The Infinite Heat Switch Kit is an OEM part for GE ranges and cooktops. This kit is essential for controlling the temperature of the burners on your range or cooktop, allowing you to adjust the heat level from low to high. 

Causes of damage to the infinite heat switch can include normal wear and tear from frequent use, electrical issues such as short circuits or power surges, and physical damage from cleaning or impact. 

Symptoms of a bad Infinite Heat Switch include:

  • Burners not heating to the desired temperature, either staying too hot or not getting hot enough.
  • The burner not turning on at all, indicating a possible failure in the switch's electrical contacts or circuit.
  • Inconsistent cooking temperatures, where the burner cycles on and off too frequently or not often enough, affecting cooking performance.

This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Infinite Heat Switch Kit (Part Number: OEM20965440)

1 Answer

Bob, Your new part should come with terminals to put on your wires if they don't connect.

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John for Model Number GE Manufacture counter top stove (electric)

I found the number on my switch WB21X240 in the replacement list for WB21X5243. However the WB21X5243 looks bulky (bigger) than my switch. My switch mounts to a chrome cover attached flat to the top of the electric stove. I am not sure if your switch will work or fit under the chrome cover. There are four switches in total . My stove has four elements in total. Two small and two large. ( 5 1/2 and 7 1/2 in diameter) thank you, John

1 Answer

John, the part [WB21X5243] is a direct replacement designated by the manufacturer.

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Wolfbabe for Model Number RB525S1WH

HOTPOINT OVEN HEATING UP ON IT'S OWN Our Hotpoint oven is about 25 years old and this is the first problem we've really had with it (that either means it's well made or I don't cook a whole lot...maybe both) The bottom heating element burned out with lots of sparks and noise about a week ago. We turned the oven off right away but the element continued to glow red then white so we turned it off at the breaker. The element has now been replaced with a new one but as soon as the breaker was turned back on the element began to heat up (the oven temperature knob was still in the off position). I turned the temp knob on and set it to 350 degrees. The oven continued to heat up and when it passed 250 (I have one of those thermostats that hangs inside the oven) I turned the knob down to 225 to see if it would click off and it did (good sign). I turned the temp dial to off and the oven turned off (oven light went off and it stopped heating up). We thought everything was ok until several hours later I heard the oven click like it does when it gets to the right temperature. The oven was off and had been for several hours. When I opened the door it was warm and the hanging thermostat read 150. We tried turning it on and off again but it did not click off this time. Also, my husband was able to turn the dial past Broil where it normally stops. We turned the breaker off again to make sure it stayed off. Does it sound like we need to replace the oven thermostat? I found part #WB21X5287 but I want to make sure that's the problem since it's expensive. How can we check? Would replacing this also fix the dial's ability to turn past the Broil setting or is that another issue? Thanks in advance for your help!

1 Answer

Wolfbabe, you may want to check to ensure that the thermostat is not sending 120VAC to the element when it is in the off position. If it is, then you definitely have a bad thermostat [WB21X5287]. Another thing that can cause the unit to heat up when in the off position is if the element is grounded out. You can test to see if the element is grounded by disconnection the power and testing for continuity. If the element tests for continuity from the element to the oven frame, then you have a grounded wire.

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Paul Kugler for Model Number 9119871191

I sent my question a couple of days ago. I am sorry if I missed your response, but I have not seen it. I replaced a WB21X228 with a WB21X5243. I believe I connected the wires to the proper terminals as per the instructions. Yet when I reconnected the current, the circuit breaker immediately tripped. The only difference from the instruction was that instead of H2, there is an HC, which I assumed was H2. (The old switch worked fine, but the shaft had snapped off.) Any suggestions? Is it possibly a defective switch?

1 Answer

Paul, A defective switch is possible, but not likely. You are correct the H2(old switch) and the HC(new switch) terminals the "same", " The switch will be the same hook up except the H2 that was on the original will go the HC on the new one." Check and make sure the wiring to the switch is correct, and the wires between the switch and the cooktop elements didn't get pinched or damaged and shorted to the cabinet during the repair. Lastly, check the switch circuits, L1 to H1 and L2 to HC should be an "open" circuit when the switch is in the Off position and a "closed' circuit when the switch is in the On position. Also check for a "bleed" through between L1 and HC as well as L2 to H1, to see if there may be an internal short in the new switch.

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1 Answer

Patty, The P would be at the bottom of the switch with the label P over it and will not be on the side with L1 and L2.

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1 Answer

Patty, On the original part the P would be located next to the L1 and L2 terminals but on the new part the P from the original will go the terminal labeled Pilot.

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Joe Worland

You sent me GE WB21X5243 (PART #AP2023620) which is correct part the last time I replaced it. But this time the switch does not look anything like your picture or what you sent the last time I ordered this part. The unit you sent does not match the instruction sheet picture either. The unit you sent has H1, HC, P, L1, L2. The number on the part you sent is stamped MPA-W111-UAM ROBERTSHAW. The broken unit I have the connection clips stick out the back of case, yours come off the sides. I have two red wires, two black wires and one yellow wire. So do I have the wrong part and if not how am I suppose to wire up the part you sent?

1 Answer

Joe, The switch will be the same hook up except the H2 that was on the original will go the HC on the new one.

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1 Answer

Hello Patty, I'm sorry but this part WB2X8297 has been discontinued by the manufacturer and no satisfactory substitutions have been provided. Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter.

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1 Answer

Hello Patty, If the knobs do not line up of fit the control shaft, this indicates that the wrong switch has been ordered for the unit.

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1 Answer

Scott, It's not all that difficult or disastrous , The instructions are pretty accurate, you'll have a few empty terminals left, is all. The diagram is a bit distorted, but we should have you wired and ready to go in a couple of minutes.: L2 is a red wire, it's also "common" to all the other infinite switches, it should attach to terminal P1 (L2) on the new switch.. L1 is the black wire, it is also common to all the switches, it will attach to terminal P2 (L1) on the new switch. The two white with black stripe wires are most likely the wires to the element receptacle, One wire will attach to terminal 4 (H1) and the other will attach to terminal 2 (H2) on the new switch. The remaining red wire should be to the "ON" indicator light on the console, it will attach to the terminal labelled "PILOT" (P). Now you can install the switch, remove the excess shaft length, install the knob and check the burner for operation.

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