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Customer Questions and Answers for Condenser Fan Motor by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM12797880
Manufacturer Part Number: WR60X10209

The Condenser Fan Motor is an OEM part for GE refrigerators. This fan motor circulates air in the fridge, helping to cool the compressor and condenser coils for better temperature control. It also evaporates extra water in the drain pan, stopping problems from water buildup.  

Symptoms of a failing condenser fan motor include:

  • The refrigerator running hotter than usual
  • Loud noise or rattling sounds coming from the back of the refrigerator
  • The refrigerator cycling on and off more frequently or for longer periods

Causes of condenser fan motor failure typically include wear and tear from continuous use, dust and debris accumulation obstructing fan movement, or electrical issues such as faulty wiring or capacitor problems.

This GE replacement part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

Note: This is a (12-volt DC) fan motor. For the (115-volt AC) fan motor, order part number WR60X10220.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Condenser Fan Motor (Part Number: OEM12797880)

1 Answer

Steve, You will want to check the evaporator fan motor to make sure that it is working. If the fan motor checks ok then remove the rear cover in the freezer and check to make sure that the evaporator coils are not impacted with ice. If it is then there is a defrost issue and will need to test the thermistor on the evaporator, the defrost limiter and the defrost heater. If all of this checks ok then the control board will be the issue.

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Chris C. for Model Number PSS26NGPABB

I have ge side by side pss26ngpabb. First noticed water leaking from freezer section. Both feezer and cold food section warm. Not sure if compressor was running at this time. After clean up unplugged for some time then powered up fridge.The compressor,compressor fan, evap fan, and cold section fan powered up. The freezer section started to cool, and eventually achieved freezer temp 0 and cold section 37. I had removed evaporator cover earlier to watch for ice formation. The ice formation was fairly significant. Leading me to test for a defrost problem. I tested heater and thermostat for continuity on the main board. checked out ok. Also checked evaporator and freezer thermistors using a cup of ice water and both at 16 ohms. Double checked defrost heater buy removing it and testing for continuity result ok. So it is the main board. Correct? But I still was not convinced because the ice formation was uniform except at the very top rung of the evaporator coil where the defrost thermostat and thermistor are connected. Also the freezer and cold section again became very warm.My wife discovered this condition,so I am not sure but it seems that compressor had stopped. The ice on the evap coils was melted when discovered. At this point she adusted the fridge temp and the unit seemed to start running,and cooling again. Is the compressor shuting off because of heavy load as some kind of safety measure? The compessor is very hot to touch when unit is plugged in and it never seems stop running.I would assume there is some type of thermal protection for the compressor. Currently the unit is running and cooling. I have unplugged the unit and defrosted it. Starting temp of freezer 40 degrees C and cold section 60 degrees.After 2 + hours temp F 17 Cold 37. The condenser fan is running at 4 dc volts. I have been monitoring it since start up. (Also checked power to other fans via main board checked ok) Seems that upon start up the condenser fan should run at 12 volts not 4 volts. Correct ? I am not sure but thinking that the compessor fan motor is variable speed, but again on start up (heavy cooling mode) would it not run at 12 volts. Would this be causing the compressor to overheat and stop cooling? Is this a main board problem? So any suggestions ? Thank you in advance. one last thing I did check cold section thermistors upper at 16.3 ohms and the lower was 15.6 ohms. used ice water to test

1 Answer

Chris, Based on the readings of the thermistors, it is safe to say that they are all checking ok. The most likely cause for this issue will end up being that the control board. It sounds as if though when the unit enters the defrost mode that it may be sticking and not coming out.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill. Yes, and it will cause it not to cool properly. Use compressed air and blow it out.

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Kinmanfridge for Model Number HSS25IFMCWW

I think the condenser motor is bad on my unit. At first, the freezer had a thin sheet of ice in the very bottom under the drawer. Stuff on top shelves began to thaw but items on bottom were fine. Fridge was working okay. Now, the top half of the fridge is not cold, though the bottom half is (bag salad in bottom crisper door froze, in fact). The top half of freezer is luke warm too, but items in drawer and bottom shelf are frozen, next shelf above is cold but not frozen, etc. Ice maker will not work either. The condenser fan motor was not turning until I cleaned that whole area and it began to turn, but seems to have stopped again. Would it be the only/primary thing to cause this type issue or should I also look to replace something else? I'd prefer to order what I need all at once and see how much it will cost total, to see if worth trying to fix. Don't want to spend $300+ on a compressor kit or something; I'd just go get a $500 replacement fridge... Thanks!

Dave

I have a Summit brand refrigerator that uses an evaporator fan motor (no longer available) that appears to be quite similar to above named GE model in size and appearance. Mine says 11.3 Volts, and the watts listed is 4.83 watts. (yours, 12 Volt, 2.2 watts). Would the difference in watts be crucial? ONLY IF COMPATIBLE:Lastly mine terminates simply in a 2 prong plug, colored red and black. Could you tell which colors of the WR60X10209 would be the equivalent, or the "live" DC power cords? Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Dave. Sorry, but we do not have any information to help you convert this motor WR60X10209 to work with your design. Thank you.

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1 Answer

Mia, GE DEFROST ISSUE You can check the defrost limiter to see if it has continuity. If it does not have continuity then you would not need to change it out. You will also want to check the defrost thermistor for resistance. The resistance values should be as follows, 42.5K at 0 degrees, 14.4k at 37 degrees and 5K ohms at 77 degrees. If not within range then it would need to be replaced. If it checks good then also check the defrost heater for continuity. If no continuity then replace and if good with continuity and all other components check ok then you would need a new main control board. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

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1 Answer

Hello Ben. Based on the model number, this motor should fit. We have sold many of these and all have been able to be installed. You need to make sure it is turned right.

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1 Answer

Cole, If you are only getting 4 vdc to the fan motor then you will want to check at the control board to make sure that it is putting out the proper voltage and if not then replace the control board.

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Craig for Model Number GE GSL25JFPABS

I have confirmed that the Cond fan is not blowing, despite getting 14 VDC at the wire harness. I believe, then, that I'll have to simply replace the Cond fan. (All other aspects of the refrigerator appear to be working normally.) My question, then, is when I remove the Cond fan, will I have to replace any of the grommets or other parts. In other words, are the adjacent grommets and the like single use (like a cotter pin) and will have to be replaced with the fan and therefore should be ordered concurrently with the replacement fan? Or am I OK to simply order the replacement fan, install the replacement fan, and reuse the other parts?

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