Sergio January 09, 2024 for Model Number PSI23MGMABB I am replacing the Condenser fan motor on GE side by side, Replacement motor for this... WR60X10209 ---this shows 4 wires in picture (Red, White, Yellow and Blue). However my fridge harness only has 3 wires ( Red, White and Yellow ). Is this the right part for condenser fan motor? If this is correct part, what would I do with the Blue wire ? What is this used for ?
1 Answer Sergio, This should be the part needed Condenser Fan Motor WR60X10220 - WR60X10220 Read More...
Dustin June 06, 2021 for Model Number GSC23LSRCSS Hello. I have replaced the condenser fan motor, main control board, start relay, and temp sensor in the freezer. Finally now it is running and compressor is coming on but the condenser fan is not. Compressor running, brand new fan motor and not coming on. Any ideas? Thank you!!!!
2 Answers Dustin, Test to see if there is 12 VDC to the condenser fan motor and if there is not then check for a wiring issue and if the wiring is good then the main board may have been faulty. If there is power then you received a faulty fan motor. Read More...
Dustin June 06, 2021 for Model Number GSC23LSRCSS Hello. I have replaced the condenser fan motor, main control board, start relay, and temp sensor in the freezer. Finally now it is running and compressor is coming on but the condenser fan is not. Compressor running, brand new fan motor and not coming on. Any ideas? Thank you!!!!
2 Answers Dustin, Based on the model number provided there should be 12-14 vdc to the condenser fan motor on the red and white wires. If you have this voltage and the fan is not running I would check my wiring back to the board. These wires are coming off the board on terminals j2-8 for the red wire and j2-3 for the white wire. If you don't have the voltage at the connections from the board then it would be a board issue. Read More...
Chainplate March 09, 2021 for Model Number PSH25MSTASV I suspected that the evaporator fan motor on my GE Profile side-by-side refrigerator wasn’t working so I ordered the WR60X10209 replacement motor. However, when I went to install it, there was no temperature sensor attached to the new motor. How is that supposed to work?
1 Answer Chainplate, The part number that was ordered WR60X10209 is the condenser fan motor, not the evaporator fan motor which is part number WR60X10074. This fan motor will have the thermistor included. Read More...
Devesh Patel November 23, 2020 for Model Number PSI23SGMDFBS Since my initial question on 11/02/2020 I have replaced following parts: 1) Temperature Sensor – WR55X10025 2) Thermostat – WR50X10068 3) Main Control Board – WR55X10942 Now the freezer side I have seen temperature varying from -1 to 11 and refrigerator side from 32 to 42. Can you please let me know what else can I check or look for to solve the issue? Thank you.
1 Answer Devesh, There will be temperature fluctuation in the refrigerator and freezer compartment when the unit is going through a defrost cycle. Test all the thermistors in the unit to make sure that they are within the proper range. At 36 degrees they should be around 16k ohms of resistance and at 0 degrees should be around 42k ohms. Read More...
Devesh November 06, 2020 for Model Number PSI23SGMDFBS What resistance should it measure for new part: WR55X10025?
1 Answer Devesh, the resistance is going to vary depending on the temperature that the sensor WR55X10025 is exposed to. The sensor would measure 36.4KO at 5°F, 27.6KO at 14°F, 21KO at 23°F, 16.3KO at 32°F, 12.7KO at 41°F, and 10KO at 50°F. Read More...
Devesh October 31, 2020 for Model Number PSI23SGMDFBS It started out with ice on the back wall of FREEZER SECTION. I unplugged the freeze, opened the freezer side back wall panel, found lots of ice. I replaced :DEFROST HEATER HEATING ELEMENT", cleaned, vacuumed underside, back and plugged back the fridge. Now whah happens is that FREEZER side temperature does not go below 12 and refrigerator side stay between 35 to 40.
1 Answer Devesh, if the compressor cycles off after the freezer reaches 12°F, the failure would likely be in the temperature sensor WR55X10025 and it can be tested for resistance. With the power cord unplugged, the sensor can be tested at the main control from connection J1 from the wire at pin 3 to the wire at pin 5. At 12°F the sensor should measure around 27.6KO. Read More...
Laura August 02, 2020 for Model Number GDSL0KCXLS HI your video is fabulous but my fridge is made with the capillary coils IN THE WAY. Since i changed the motherboard after changing everything else i realized i need to also change the fan motor which has caused me great anxiety and stress. I've tried and tried and tried night after night after night to pull the shroud out. im at my wits end. What should i do? is there an aftermarket part i can replace it with after i break it up in parts to get it out?? thanks for your time and consideration GDSL0KCXLS
1 Answer Hello Laura, if you cannot easily remove the condenser fan shroud because the sealed system tubing is in the way, suggest you contact a service technician, he would be able to either carefully move the tubing out of the way or if needed tilt the ref cabinet so as to lower the rear base to where the shroud and fan motor/bracket is accessible. Read More...
Rupinder June 23, 2020 for Model Number PSS26SGPASS My fridge used to stop working. Unplugging and letting it thaw and then plugging it in would fix it. After a few months, it completely stopped cooling both compartments. I checked the control and it had visible signs of damage with a relay contact burnt. I replaced the control board and the fridge seems to be working fine. But the voltage to the condenser motor is only about 8.4v on the board. This is when the fridge is just started. The voltage to the evaporator motor is 13V. I was told by an tech that the condenser motor is variable speed. I thought only the evaporator motor was variable speed. Is this something to worry about ?
1 Answer Hello Rupinder, as long as the fan motors are running they are working, both fan motors are the same design (brushless variable speed dc motors). You can only test the supply voltage using a multimeter, the input signal from the control board telling the motor how fast to turn is a variable frequency and some meters may/may not read it correctly or may read it as a low dc voltage. The control board determines the fan motor speed based on several factors. Read More...
Vajira April 16, 2020 for Model Number GSHL5KGXCCLS May GE side by side model number is GSHL5KGXCCLS. Freezer side is working okay. I've cleaned the condenser coil. But the refrigerator side is not cool enough, stay around 47 F after 24 hours. The panel between the freeze and refrigerator is very warm. The air flow from the freezer side to the refrigerator side is very weak. It doesn't blow in strong enough to keep it cool. What part do I need to order from you to fix the problem? Secondly, is there any video to install this part? Please advise at your earliest. Thanks, My cell is 504-957-6128' email: kauveiya@bellsouth.net
1 Answer Vajira, You will want to check the evaporator coils in the refrigerator section to make sure that the coils are not impacted with ice. If they are then the issue will be a defrost problem in which you will want to check the defrost heater, defrost thermistor, defrost limiter to see if they are good. You can test the heater and the limiter for continuity and the thermistor should have a resistance reading of 42.2K ohms of resistance at 0 degrees. If these check ok then the control board would be the issue. Read More...