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Customer Questions and Answers for Compressor Overload by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM10265055
Manufacturer Part Number: WR08X10025

This OEM Replacement Part is a compressor overload that attaches to the GE refrigerator compressors. It acts as a safety switch, shutting off the compressor motor if overheating or excessive current draw is detected. This protects the compressor from damage. Over time, the original overload may malfunction, causing insufficient cooling inside the fridge. Replacing a faulty overload restores proper temperature regulation and food safety. This manufacturer-supplied part meets original specifications and may rattle slightly when shaken, which is normal.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Compressor Overload (Part Number: OEM10265055)

Randy for Model Number PSC23SGPASS

Is it true the compressor overload is not suppose to rattle? My refrigerator stopped freezing and cooling. I purchased a compressor overload and start relay from another supplier. I received the parts and the compressor overload rattled. I replaced the parts either way and the refrigerator worked for a day or two. The refrigerator was running constantly and had a knocking noise approximately every five minutes. I figured the compressor overload was bad because it rattled. I purchased the compressor overload along with the start relay again but this time from ApplicancePartsPros.com. When I received the parts, the compressor overload rattled. I thought, what are the chances that the compressor overload rattled like the other one. I thought, maybe they rattle. I replaced the compressor overload and the start relay, plugged it in and the knocking started. I sat and waited. In approximately five minutes later, I heard the knocking sound. I waited again and I heard the knocking sound again. Was the compressor overload bad because it rattled? Will I be able to replace it?

1 Answer

Randy, The compressor overload will have a slight rattle to it and it is not bad. Based on the situation it sounds like the compressor has failed and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Gregery, it is recommended that the wires at the door hinge are inspected for any bare or broken sections. If there is not a bare or broken wire, then the most likely failure is going to be a weak relay in the main control WR55X10942C.

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1 Answer

Cuong, The suction line freezing up back to the compressor would indicate either an overcharge of refrigerant or a unit that has a possible restriction in the sealed system which would require service.

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1 Answer

Hector, Are any of the fans running, do you hear the compressor running? If the fans and compressor are not running then look for a possible control board issue. If the compressor is not running but the fans are then it would be likely a start device or main control board that is faulty. This could also be a sealed system issue with the unit having been laid on its side.

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1 Answer

Lojo, there is the overload relay assembly CLS30820001 for your model.You may want to test the voltage going to the compressor first by testing connection 3 pin 12 (black wire) for 120VAC at the main control. If there is no voltage then you would want to change out the main control if the condenser fan is running but the compressor is not. If there is voltage, then you will want to go to the overload section. This can be checked for operation (with the power cord to the unit disconnected) by performing a continuity test on the overload which should read continuity. The relay should not produce a rattle sound when shaken. If either of these fail, then you would need to replace the overload relay assembly.

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2 Answers

Stan, When the relay is faulty the compressor will not run. I would look more at a defrost issue on the freezer section. Look on the back wall of the freezer and if you see frost start looking for a reason it won't defrost. Possibly heater, defrost thermostat or defrost control board.

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2 Answers

Stan, When the relay is faulty the compressor will not run. I would look more at a defrost issue on the freezer section. Look on the back wall of the freezer and if you see frost start looking for a reason it won't defrost. Possibly heater, defrost thermostat or defrost control board.

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1 Answer

Hello Anil, while the parts might look the same the parts are different. Internally one part is rated for a different thermal setting than the other, we recommend you use part number WR08X10025. Hope this helps!

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1 Answer

Jon, You will want to remove the rear wall in the freezer compartment and check to make sure that the coils are not impacted with ice. If it is then test the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. If they check ok then the defrost timer would be the issue.

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Craig for Model Number DCF145A1WDD

I have a Danby chest freezer that is less than a year old which recently quit cooling. I cannot find parts for this appliance anywhere on the web. This particular overload protector resembles the one taken from my freezer identically. I realize these may be rated differently but I was hoping you might have some information for me about it. Printed on my overload protector is DRB29R61A1, and underneath that it is printed AM 15k-2. A web search for that part # yielded no results. I have been considering a hard start capacitor device since I can't find parts. Do you have any thoughts or advice, and do you know if I can use this particular overload protector?

1 Answer

Craig, We do not have the rating specs for individual parts but this overload may work for your unit. As for a hard start you will only want to try a hardstart and leave it on if the compressor were locked up as this will ruin a compressor but will get you by until the compressor completely dies.

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