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Customer Questions and Answers for Radiant Element by Ge

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Ge
Part Number: OEM11582043
Manufacturer Part Number: WB30T10099

The Radiant Element is an OEM part for GE ranges and cooktops. This part provides efficient and even heating for cooking. This part uses electricity to heat up and transfer warmth directly to the cookware. The radiant element is encased under the glass surface of the cooktop, offering a sleek and easy-to-clean cooking area while ensuring optimal heat distribution and cooking performance.

Causes of failure might include a burnt-out heating coil, damage to the element's electrical connections, or a malfunction within the control system that regulates power to the element.  

Symptoms of a bad Radiant Element include:

  • The element not heating up, leading to insufficient cooking temperatures.
  • Uneven heating, causing inconsistent cooking results.
  • The cooktop surface not responding or only partially heating, indicating a possible failure in the element's circuit.

This OEM GE part is also compatible with Hotpoint, RCA, and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Ge Radiant Element (Part Number: OEM11582043)

1 Answer

Trish, Normally when both the inner and outer element are not working then the issue is not with the element. You can check to see if there are any burn marks on the element by using a flashlight to look down into the glass and see if you see any black marks on the element. If not then the infinite switch would be the most likely issue.

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1 Answer

Hello Al. It depends on the error code you are getting. It could be voltage, stuck button, or bad board. Could also be oven sensor error. There should be a tech shhet on the unit to help you determine what is wrong. ?• Measure each sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in sensor circuit. • Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace. • Check connector at sensor (remove sensor and carefully pull leads with connector into oven) • If all above is ok replace control. FAILURE MEANING CORRECTION CODE -F0--F1--F7-Stuck key pad or transistor failure. May mean relay is turned on. If code cannot be cancelled, replace control. -F2-Also see fan thermal switches Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation. •Control senses oven temperature • Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode). • Look for high resistance in the sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection inside sensor tube) or intermittent solder joint. • Electrical noise interference in the sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone etc.). • Control senses oven temperature above 930°F with the door in the door locked mode. -F3--F4-Open sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) Shorted sensor (circuit) (under 950 ohms) Could be result of contamination on terminals, pinched harness lead, or cold solder joint on control. • Disconnect power to range. • Disconnect sensor connector at control. Measure sensor resistance at control connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100W at room ambient (approx. 72°F). -FC-Check wiring and test operation of switches. Perform resistance check. Problem with door lock circuit such as pinched wires between control and door lock switches. -FF-Door motor safety switch transistor failure Replace control. -F5-Loss of relay drive circuit • Press Clear/Off and reprogram control. If -F5- code reappears, replace control. • Check sensor circuit. • Check lock circuit. If all above check OK the F5 code can be a result of a momentary loss of power (DO NOT REPLACE CONTROL AND LOCK.) Check lock circuit. above 630°F withthe door circuit in the unlock mode. NOTE:Connections can be intermittent due to a corrosive buildup between the connection to the terminals, or by being bent by the insertion of a probe, etc.

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1 Answer

David, The most likely cause of the burner only working on high would be a faulty infinite switch.

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1 Answer

Bill, You can look down into the element with a flashlight and check to see if there are burn marks. This is not the most accurate way to find out which is bad. If there is a burn mark you should see it and would need an element.

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1 Answer

Hello Dennis, You can use a flashlight to look down inside of the main top at the burner to see if you see any burn marks on the element. If there is a burn mark then replace the element. This will most likely be the cause since inner burner is working.

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1 Answer

Hello Bill, Blue with a black trace goes to terminal 4 and has a jumper to terminal S. Blue with a white trace goes to terminal 4a. Black to terminal H. Solid blue to terminal 2.

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Mike B for Model Number JBP85W0B4WW

My flat-surface cooktop has one burner that is 2-in-1, that is, it has a small central burner element and a larger surrounding ring. The control is a rotary knob that controls the small (center) burner on the left half and the large (both burners) on the right. When I turn on the large burner, the small burner comes on but the outer may or may not, and it is not consistent. Also, when the small burner is turned on, the large burner may or may not come on, too. Again, it is not consistent. What do these symptoms point to? Burner element or control? THANKS!

1 Answer

Hello Judy, The best way is with a telescoping magnet. I have used this method many times during my career and vouch for it being much easier and faster than disassembling the unit. On some designs, the clips will actually fall all the way through and if you're really lucky, you might find them in the base of the unit on or around the leg rail, (the metal part that the legs screw into).

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