Customer Questions and Answers for Control Valve Assembly by Ge

Hello Jeff, This sounds like you have your unit on LP gas and since the new parts come like the appliance, (set up for natural gas form the factory), you will need to convert the gas valve to LP. This is done by removing the plastic cap and loosening the nut under it. Flip the nut over and screw it back in and re-install the plastic cover. Now the brass hood that the burner sets on should be turned in to bottom, (about 2 turns). Be sure not to force it any further than where it bottoms or you will damage the valve assembly.

Johnny, You will want to check your wiring to make sure that there are no burnt or broken wires. If the wiring checks ok then the oven thermostat assembly WB20K8 would be the problem and would need to be replaced.

Hello Bob. Test for 3.2-3.6 volts AC at the gas safety valve with the igniter turned on. If the voltage is there, you have a bad safety valve. If the voltage is low, you have a weak igniter and the igniter will need to be replaced. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Kenneth, You will want to do amp draw on the ignitor WB13K21 and make sure that it is getting proper amp draw for between 2.5 and 3.5 amps. If it is not getting within this range then you will need to replace the ignitor. If it is getting proper amp draw then you would need to replace the gas valve. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Dan, Sounds like a control issue. I would check the resistance of the temperature sensor. As per the mini manual that should be attached to your unit, the resistance should read 1091O at 75°F ± 5.3O. Be sure to tap on the sensor while testing in case of an intermittent connection. If the sensor tests good, the control WB27K10356 has to be at fault.

Hi. Make sure the bake/broil orifice hood on the Safety valve part # WB19K10044 is turned down 2-1/2 turns or bottomed out lightly on top of the (internal) orifice. Make sure the pressure regulator cap spud is converted correctly. Flip the regulator lever to the off position. Remove the top brass cap. Do not remove the internal spring. look at the bottom LP marking on the plastic spud. It needs to be positioned so it will first contact the spring. Make sure this end does not say "Nat". Nat. should be flipped to the underside the brass cap. Make sure all the top burner orifices are correctly placed as well. Thank You.

Hello Ruby, If you have a tank of LP, I would first check the supply to insure you're not about to run out as it sounds like you could have an insufficient supply. If this isn't the case, you need to replace the control valve assembly WB19K10044.

Hello Rick. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the thermostat WB20K8 is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.

Hi Franklin. The oven electric thermostat is part # WB20K8. The burner knob is part # WB3K161. The control knob is no longer available. Thank You.

Hello Steffy. Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the thermostat WB20K8 is bad and will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.