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Customer Questions and Answers for Refrigerator Front Panel Display Assembly by Lg

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Lg
Part Number: OEM17348991
Manufacturer Part Number: ACQ85430239

Replace your refrigerator's front panel display assembly when cracked, delaminating, or broken. Snaps into door front, houses controls and dispenser lever.

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Questions & Answers

For Lg Refrigerator Front Panel Display Assembly (Part Number: OEM17348991)

Anthony for Model Number LFX31925ST/00

Problem 1- Last year after using the water spigot the water continued to flow. Opening the door or locking the panel stopped the flow. The problem was intermittent and could not be trusted. The lever switches were replaced but didn't solve the problem, So I decided to keep the panel lock on and was able to use the ice maker. Problem 2- Recently the ice maker stop producing ice automatically. Followed the typical troubleshooting steps and determined that the ice maker seems to be functioning normally. Ice is made but it needs to be released manually by pushing the reset button on the ice maker. What other steps can be done to pinpoint the issue? Could the panel control assembly be failing? Would replacing the dispenser assembly (ACQ85430239) solve the problem? Thank you for your help.

1 Answer

Anthony, Thanks for the question!!! Sounds like your ice maker AEQ73110205 is the issue if pushing the cycle switch dumps the ice. Replacing the dispenser assembly ACQ85430239 should solve the water issue.

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1 Answer

Bryan, yes, we would expect the ACQ85430239/ACQ85430239 Cover Assembly, display to solve the issues with the auger motor and dispenser light and display cover. The part is in stock and available at this time. Thanks,

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1 Answer

Hello Chuck, first check the flapper is closing and sealing as this can lead to frost/ice build-up in the chute not allowing the cubes to drop correctly, next check the ice room cover is closing and sealing, as fresh food air should not be allowed to enter the ice maker area. also, avoid fast closing or slamming that left side fresh food door as it can knock ice cubes out of the ice bin and down into the chute where they may jam, lastly the ice cubes should no be oversized which again can jam in the bin.

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Don B for Model Number LFX31925ST/02

Long story. 1st, some quick background - had a warranty call early January for a bad compressor. They swapped it using their local repair contractor. All perfect. Today, wife jammed the ice bucket. Could not unjam - tilted it wrong, wouldn't go back, wouldn't come out. Thought perhaps ice was jammed in behind. Poured warm water to melt and loosen - it poured down into a wide bucket, no problem. Got it unjammed carefully, no plastic parts broken, and out. Dried all the parts. Resnapped all. All seemed great. Closed left fridge door, and water began spouting out of the spigot. Open door, stops. Online info indicated one way to stop flow was do "Lock" - but discovered panel bottom 3-4 buttons not working. Top ones ok. Figured maybe with all the fiddling it needed a "reboot" - cycled power. No change. Water dispenser lever / switch was same as usual. Shut off water at pipe. That stopped any water flow, but panel still not working, and also when door shut I heard a sound like the pump trying to work. Didn't want it to burn out. So removed pump panel cover, disconnected electrical connectors. Figured maybe some water dripped into electrical connectors somewhere - checked all areas for water or to dry anything. Nothing obvious. Disassembled more door parts. All looked good & dry. Occasionally the panel would show "Er" other times it showed normal temp reading. Cycled power a few times. In the meantime, noticed the long, thin "door flap" had an electrical "harness" connector, but the wires going inside had been previously "pinched" - upon removing carefully, discovered they were all actually cut - must have been jammed in the hinge. Bought this house a year ago, so this was likely cut all along. Disconnected all that in order to re-solder those wires (appear to be a temp gauge, wire travels length of flap in a loop, etc). So, after several hours, and power cycles, while messing with dismantling and drying and the flap, at some point the panel began working. Figured, maybe it did get wet, and dried out. Who knows. All functions work, buttons, lock out for water spigot. Only problem, same issue, water pours out upon door close... seems to not matter whether pump plugged in electrically. It now does stop with the panel "Lock" - but I don't trust it. Wife noticed temperature didn't seem great, but we had the door open a lot. Will see about overnight. Don't know whether the "flap" with the temp gauge inside, if wires broken, would affect temp. However, they were "cut" all along... or perhaps mostly cut, partially working, for the past year. Checked all the water dispenser switch troubleshooting on LG site. Pressing with screwdriver. If panel Locked, then no water flow, if panel Unlocked, then water flow, no water what happens with dispenser switch. It seems when Lock applied, it is turning off further inside, at some internal valve, not at the dispenser switch. Tomorrow a.m., will get further wire connection tools to finish the "flap" wires re-connect. At this point, a bit exasperated - what is causing the water flow issue - was the "panel" damaged by the ice-melting warm water flow originally? Don't see how - but why would both issues occur together? (unjammed, poured warm water through bucket, then water spigot issue began). Don't get any "Er" on panel anymore, but something just not working. And hopefully if panel, it's also not causing a cooling problem, that didn't exist before. No idea of cause - if you know, and can pinpoint, then I can know which part to buy from you. Anyway, thanks for listening. :-)

1 Answer

Don, Based on this information, the panel would be the issue with the dispenser control board.

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1 Answer

Josh, For this issue, the most likely cause of the unit continuing to dispense ice would be a faulty dispenser control.

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1 Answer

Peter, the sensor can short out and cause many issues with electronic controls. The display can be tested at the connection CON101 from the white wire with the red strip (using the black probe of a meter) to the red wire next to the gray wire (using the red probe) and there should be a 12VDC reading. If there is a 12VDC reading, then the display has failed. If there is not a 12VDC reading, the wires at the hinge will need to be inspected for any damage and the most likely failure would be the main control. For the most accurate part number, the series/revision number would be necessary.

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1 Answer

Thomas, You will need to disassemble the dispenser to check in the back. The microswitch mounting clips have been to known to break due to excessive force but really no way to know for sure until you remove the assembly and visually check.

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