Customer Questions and Answers for Blower Thermostat by Lg

John, with the top panel removed, the dryer will need to be ran in a high heat cycle to check if the ignitor glows. If not, the main control would need to be tested for 120VAC at the relay with a black wire and blue wire. The blue wire should read 120VAC when tested with a meter to ground. If there is 120VAC, with the dryer power cord unplugged, the hi-limit thermostat AGM30045804 and the safety thermostat AGM30045804 would need to be tested for continuity (replace part if there is not continuity). The ignitor 5318EL3001A would need to be tested for 100 to 800 ohms. If the ignitor glows, the gas valve coils 5221EL2002A would need to be tested for resistance. From the red wire to the pink wire, the resistance should read 1.5KO. From the red wire to the white wire, the resistance should read between 1.5KO to 2.5KO. If the solenoids test good, and the ignitor cycled on and off, the main control EBR36858802 would be the cause of failure.

Mike, If the unit stops when you release the start button then this will likely be a faulty motor.

Ceasar, It sounds like the idler pulley is not lining up or the belt may be twisted which would cause this type of issue.

Hello Jim, on a thermostat with 2 terminals and both terminals are the same size then either wire can attach to either terminal.

Hello Vern, This will be a bad gas valve 5221EL2002A.

Stavroula, First open the dryer door and check the moisture sensor bars 6500EL3001A at the bottom of the front bulkhead. remove one screw and lift the assembly away from the bulkhead and check to make sure the wires are attached to the metal bars. If all's OK, clean the sensor bar assembly, using rubbing alcohol or electrical contact cleaner, or similar products to remove any build up or debris on the sensor bars, so the control can recognize a wet load of clothes. .

Hello Stavroula, Most of the time this is caused by a bad thermistor 6323EL2001B.

Karen, You will want to do a continuity test on the thermal fuse, thermostat, sensor and heating element. You would want to check the thermistor for resistance which would be about 10K ohms at room temp. If these check ok then There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the timer. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the timer side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .

Hello Tim, While the safety thermostat AGM30045804 and/or high limit thermostat AGM30045804 can be weak, it is much more likely that the exhaust duct to the outside is crimped, restricted, too long, or too many turns for the unit to get the heat out of the appliance cabinet. If flexible ducting is used, this can cause this issue also.

Hello. You will need to check for a bad thermal fuse or a broken belt on the unit.