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Customer Questions and Answers for Blower Thermostat by Lg

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Lg
Part Number: OEM17346960
Manufacturer Part Number: 6931EL3002M

The Dryer Blower Thermostat is an OEM replacement part for LG dryers. It plays a role in regulating the operation of the blower motor, which is responsible for circulating hot air throughout the dryer during the drying cycle.

Causes of a bad dryer blower thermostat can include electrical malfunctions, physical damage, or simply wear and tear over time.

Symptoms of a bad dryer blower thermostat include:  

  • The dryer not heating up properly or taking longer to dry clothes
  • The blower motor failing to turn on or running continuously
  • Inconsistent or inadequate airflow during the drying cycle
  • Error codes or fault indicators related to the thermostat or blower motor

This OEM LG part is also compatible with Sears/Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Lg Blower Thermostat (Part Number: OEM17346960)

1 Answer

Hello Jonathan, thank you for contacting APP, It may be that the Thermostats 383EEL9001C on the Heater have welded closed and do not cycle open to allow the unit to cool off, otherwise, I would suspect a blockage or restriction in the vent airflow through the home.

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1 Answer

Bob, You will want to test the thermostats to make sure that they have continuity. Also, check to see if there is 240 Vac to the heater and if there is and it is not coming on then this will be a faulty heater.

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John for Model Number DLG3461V

Having trouble with my LG dryer. Panel powered on but after hitting start, drum motor would not start. First thought it was the PCB main assembly. Replaced that but wasn’t the problem (sent it back since it was a $250 part). Next tried replacing the motor assembly ($150 part). Wasn’t the problem (kept that cause I figured I’ll burn mine up someday anyway). Then, after lots of YouTube, learned how to test the switches, thermostats etc. Found the blower thermostat was bad. Thought the thermistor was bad too, but not sure if the continuity test works on that. Replaced both blower thermostat and thermistor. Finally the unit ran! HOWEVER, only ran for one day. Next day, same problem, powered on but wouldn’t start. Took it apart again, the new blower thermostat is bad again. I’m going to replace that again, as well as the high limit thermostat and the high limit fuse (although both are testing fine). Also noticed one of the drum rollers is damaged (probably from heat or from some mistake I made reassembling it). Is there something I’m missing? Why would a blower thermostat go bad so quickly?

1 Answer

John, Based on the information provided check the blower and the vent system and makes sure all is clear all the way outside. Then replace the bad roller and the other bad parts, and check the operation from there.

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1 Answer

Ray, There should be continuity on the thermostat and if there is not then it would be faulty. Check to make sure that the door switch is good and test to see if there is power to the motor when the start button is pushed. If there is power to the motor but does not start then the motor is faulty and would need to be replaced.

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1 Answer

Tony, This would just be a bad thermostat with the ducting having been cleaned out.

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1 Answer

Ron, You did find a failed part. A couple of reasons for failure could be a clogged vent or a stuck relay on the board causing it to heat constantly.

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1 Answer

Nick, the first thing to check would be to test the terminal block for 240VAC from the black wire to the red wire with a meter. The next step would be to test for outgoing voltage to the element. With the meter probes set at the heater relay terminals, allow the dryer to start and test for 240VAC. If there is 240VAC, the main control EBR36858801 (unfortunately, the manufacturer has discontinued this part and it is no longer available) is not closing the relay contacts and would need to be replaced. From there, if the voltage measured 0VAC, with the power cord unplugged, it would be recommended that the heating element is tested from the main control. With one meter probe at the wire found at the connector YL3, the blue wire at the black relay would be tested for resistance and should measure 10O. The probe at the blue wire would then be moved to the yellow wire at the other relay and it should measure the same resistance. If the resistances do not test properly, it is likely that the heating element 5301EL1001J has failed. If the heating element tests good, the next step would be to ensure that the cycling thermostat 6931EL3001F and hi-limit thermostat 6931EL3003D test good for having continuity. If the previous testing all passed, the failure would be in the centrifugal switch of the motor assembly 4681EL1008A.

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Joe C for Model Number DLG5988W

My drier stops too soon. It seems to fire up and start heating for about 5 -10 minutes then the (gas) dryer heat goes off and the drying continues running without any heat until the clothes are dry. I tried replacing the moisture sensor, but the unit continues with the same problem. If I let the dryer set for about 30- 40 minutes, I can start it again, and the heat comes on. for about 5 - 10 minutes and will not come on again. If I run the diagnositics. everything test correctly. The heater takes about 30 seconds before it ignites, but it ignites fine and runs during the diagnosis. Where should I start?

1 Answer

Hello Joe, the gas valve solenoid coils are failing under load after a short time, once cooled down they will work again but will fail again under load, the valve is part 5221EL2002A.

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1 Answer

John, with the top panel removed, the dryer will need to be ran in a high heat cycle to check if the ignitor glows. If not, the main control would need to be tested for 120VAC at the relay with a black wire and blue wire. The blue wire should read 120VAC when tested with a meter to ground. If there is 120VAC, with the dryer power cord unplugged, the hi-limit thermostat AGM30045804 and the safety thermostat AGM30045804 would need to be tested for continuity (replace part if there is not continuity). The ignitor 5318EL3001A would need to be tested for 100 to 800 ohms. If the ignitor glows, the gas valve coils 5221EL2002A would need to be tested for resistance. From the red wire to the pink wire, the resistance should read 1.5KO. From the red wire to the white wire, the resistance should read between 1.5KO to 2.5KO. If the solenoids test good, and the ignitor cycled on and off, the main control EBR36858802 would be the cause of failure.

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