Matthew May 14, 2021 for Model Number samsung dryer model DV350AER/XAA 03 I have a Samsung Dryer Model DV350AER/XAA 03 that runs for a while then gives me a FE error code and shuts off. Does that mean the power supply is bad?
1 Answer Matthew, it would be recommended that the power cord terminal block is tested for proper voltage. With one meter probe at the white wire, there should be 120VAC when placing the second meter probe on the black wire. There should also be 120VAC when testing from the white wire to the red wire. Once verified, the next step would be testing from the red wire to the black wire for a reading of 240VAC. If this checks good, the failure would be in the main control DC92-00382A (the main control has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available). If the voltage supply at the terminal block does not read properly, the power outlet would need to be tested for proper voltage. Read More...
Jim March 04, 2021 for Model Number DV456EWHDWR/AA-0001 The red wire at the heating element is completely burned off at the terminal. What can be the cause of this problem? Thank You Jim
1 Answer Jim, In most cases when a wire burns off it is caused by a loose connection at the point where the wire was attached. Read More...
Jorge October 03, 2020 for Model Number DV448AEP/XAA My dryer was not producing heat, I replaced the heating element, and still did not heat, I replaced the thermostat (DC47-00018A) And still do not work. can you tell me what could be the issue now? The dryer runs good but no heat at all. Please HELP!!!!
1 Answer Jorge, is there 220-240 VAC at the outlet and/or the terminal block on the back of the dryer? with the power off, access and check the hi limit and thermal cut off on the heater housing, they should have closed circuits at room temp. With the power cord plugged in check for 120 VAC at the 1P pin 3 white connector black wire on the main control board. Start the dryer and carefully check for 120 VAC out of the board on the P1 pin 4 blue wire, no voltage indicates a faulty relay on the main control board. If all's OK, disconnect the blue wire from the heater element, start the dryer and check for 120 VAC on the red wire terminal on the heater, no voltage would indicate a faulty heat switch in the motor circuit. Read More...
Willie July 28, 2020 for Model Number DV395ETPASU/A1 The dryer continues to rum with the switch off when the door is closed. The dryer otherwise works correctly.
1 Answer Hello Willie, the motor run relay is sticking, unfortunately the relay is located on the main control board (DC92-00669J) which has been discontinued by the manufacturer and is no longer available. Read More...
Brenda February 21, 2020 for Model Number DV330AEB/XAA 05 Hello, My dryer stopped working last week and it was found that there was water in the vent/shiny pipe. When the tech opened the dryer and tested the heating element for continuity, everything checked out except the fuse. He taped the fuse (to jump it) and the dryer is working again. Is it recommended to change only the fuse or to change the Thermistor, Fuse and Thermostat?
1 Answer Brenda, You will want to replace the thermal fuse that he taped off and not leave it as it is. This is a safety device and needs to be installed properly. Read More...
David Tapia February 03, 2020 for Model Number DVE50M7450W/A3 Well, I replaced the heating element, the DC47-00018A thermostat, and the DC47-00016A thermostat. The dryer was heating just right but I put it on heavy duty and it's no longer heating again. I the heating element is intact, the DC47-00018A has continuity to it, but the DC47-00016A doesn't have continuity. Does the 00016A supposed to have continuity? Could the other possibility be the DC32-00007A thermistor? Is that supposed to have continuity? Please, advise. We have a family of 7 and the laundry is building. Thank you
1 Answer David, the thermal cut-off on the side of the blower housing, [DC47-00016A], should have continuity. The thermister, [DC32-00007A] should read resistance. It sounds like thermal cut-off has opened up again. If the heater gets too hot, it acts as a fuse and will open up, shutting off the heating element. The thermister located on the side of the blower housing reads the temperature inside the drum and tells the control board to turn the element on or off. Your venting is important as that if it is restricted, the airflow across the element is reduced and it gets too hot, therefore opening the high limit thermal fuse. Check your venting behind the dryer and access it from outside. With the dryer running, you should be able to feel al lot of airflow on the outside at the exit vent. Also, there is a high limit thermal fuse on the side of the heater box assembly you can check, if there is continuity, it is good, if it is open, it will need to be replaced. Bottom line, airflow is critical in the proper operation of a dryer, with the thermister being replaced, the only things left are airflow and possibly a stickling relay on the main control board. Read More...
Peter January 07, 2020 for Model Number DV50F9A6EVW/A2 I have an interesting situation. My Samsung dryer WILL ONLY HEAT when I put it in the Vent Blockage Test mode (turning On and pressing "Adjust Time Up" and "Dry Level" buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds). In any other mode (manual time, delicate, sanitize, high heat, low heat), there is NO HEAT. When I start the dryer in Vent Blockage Test mode, the dryer heats for 30 sec, then turns off heat (still tumbles & blows). I can hear a relay turning off the heat at 30 sec, no matter how hot the exhaust is. The 1st time I run it, it heats for 30 sec, then I can use the dryer Data Display Mode to see temperature =~31C, dropping slowly from there. If I immediately run it a 2nd time (while it's still warm), it heats for another 30 sec, and the dryer data display mode measures 39C & falling. It is clear there is a 30 sec timer that cuts off heat rather than a temperature cutoff. I have tested all the normal components as good. Thermostat 1 (a.k.a. thermistor) = 13.9k Ohms at 65F, TH2 Hi-Limit = 0.1 Ohms, TH3 Cutoff = 0.1 Ohms, and the heater = 9.7 Ohms. I don't think it's the Moisture sensor since no heat during Timed Dry. If the Centrifugal switch were the problem, I doubt the Vent Blockage Test would create heat. I am running the test venting straight out the back of the dryer with no exhaust piping, and there is no blockage of any sort. Dryer model is DV50F9A6EVW/A2. I'm close to giving up. Would this likely be a circuit board problem, or should I just replace the Thermostat 1 and TH2 even though they test good? If someone knows what the Vent Blockage Test mode is bypassing, I think this would be an easy diagnosis. (I have replaced the thermistor just in case, but it did not fix the problem.)
1 Answer Peter, Based on the unit working in the test but not in any other cycle then this will be a faulty main control board. Read More...
Shevy October 08, 2019 for Model Number DV42H5200GP/A3-0000 My dryer will spin by itself when the door is closed.
1 Answer Shevy, the most likely failure is going to be in the main control DC92-00669Y. With the power cord unplugged, the main control can be tested for continuity at relay 5 from the black wire to the brown wire. If there is continuity at this relay, then the relay has fused shut and is supplying voltage continuously to the motor. Read More...
Brian June 10, 2019 for Model Number dv42h5000ew/a3 Recently we suddenly had no heat. There were no error codes present. I opened the dryer and checked continuity on the element and it was open. I pulled it and there was a break in the coil. Ordered a replacement and installed it. Dryer powered up fine and was making heat but seemed to be getting real hot when running then the dryer stops and the display shows he error code. Power it off and it will start up and run for a while. I replaced the thermal sensors on the ducting the houses the element. Same results. I don’t know where to go now.
1 Answer Brian, you will want to check the thermistor DC32-00007A on the blower housing. The thermistor should read around 10kOhms at room temperature. Another thing to check would be the heater relay to ensure that it is not closed shut when turned off. From there it would be good to check the home ventilation to ensure that there is no clogs that would prevent the heat from escaping. Read More...
Kdjt January 31, 2019 for Model Number DV52J8700EW/A2 How do I determine if I need to replace the heating element, the fuse, the thermostat, and/or the thermostor? All elements of my dryer seem to work fine minus the hot air. Do I need to put a meter on each of the parts? And how do I determine what the correct tolerances should be for each part? Thanks!
1 Answer KDJT, the heating element and thermistor would be tested for resistance, while the fuse and hi limit thermostats would be tested for continuity. The thermistor should read 10k ohms at 77 degrees Fahrenheit, the heater should read 13 ohms at connections 2-3 and 34 ohms at connections 1-2. If the fuse and hi-limit thermostats have continuity, then they are good. Read More...