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Customer Questions and Answers for Heater Assembly (240V) by Speedqueen

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Speedqueen
Part Number: OEM7210782
Manufacturer Part Number: 61927

Built for electric dryers that require a 240V heater, this complete heater assembly restores proper heat output. Replace a burned-out element to resolve no-heat or weak-heat complaints and return your dryer to consistent, efficient drying.

  • Generates the hot air needed to dry laundry during the cycle
  • Typical failure symptoms: drum turns but no heat, longer dry times, or intermittent heating
  • Can be checked with a continuity test; a broken or grounded coil indicates replacement is needed
  • Factory-style 240V configuration for proper operation on compatible models
What's included: 1 heater assembly Installation notes:
  • Disconnect power at the breaker before servicing
  • Access the heater per your model's service procedure and document wire locations
  • Move wires to matching terminals; transfer any attached brackets/sensors from the old assembly if your model uses them
  • Clear lint and verify airflow before a test run to confirm proper heating and cycling

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$100.95
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Questions & Answers

For Speedqueen Heater Assembly (240V) (Part Number: OEM7210782)

1 Answer

Bruce, It sounds like you installed the door properly, to be honest, As long as the door shuts and the motor starts and runs, it should heat, unless there's an issue with a thermostat, or wire, you may want to recheck the connections and check the thermosat for a "closed" circuit with a meter. As for the door catch LA-1003, that should be a breeze for you. here's some meter usage info if you need it, [http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html] Thanks

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Marlane for Model Number NE4613W43721

I replaced the heating element on my speed queen marathon electric dryer manufactured in 1990. I ordered the part from All Appliance Pros. First heating element seemed defective. Second replacement elements worked briefly, but only on certain settings on the timer. Now there is no heat at all. How can I tell by looking at it if the element has been damaged, or if it was defective originally? Also, are there other parts that could be responsible for causing the element fail? Do I need to order another element? Do I need the brains and timer? Is there another fuse/ or thermostat that is not on the element that may need to be replaced? I'd really like to save the dryer. I do want to let you know that I was running a space heater in my kitchen that got too hot and I had to reset all the breakers in my basement; after that I noticed a gradual decline in the dryer's efficiency before it did not heat at all. Do you think that had something to do with it? I think I can replace the faulty parts myself. Do you think that it is worthwhile to do so? Thanks, Marlane

1 Answer

Hi Marlene. Great question. The element failure rate has to do w/ a vent flow blockage mainly. Try to look at the back of the dryer w/out moving it. See if in the normal position that there is a kink ,where the lint and moisture begins to build up and back up the heat and clothes moisture back into the dryer. This red-hot heated element will now be a white -hot and expand the element. Over a short time this will expand, contract the element time and time again until it shorts out and by safety it opens the high-limit fuse and thermal fuses. You need to really remove the front panel and access the element, blower hsg thermal fuse and the safety fuse and hi-limit t-stat on the heater can. If any one of these are open then you will not get the voltage to the element. You need to test the element for resistance (11- 18 ohms) not open or shorted to the casing. You will need to invest in the volt/ohm meter part # WB27T10549. As you clean the entire vent system including the vent cap /hood outside to open and close right. Not allowing the night moisture or rain/snow moisture back into the vent to create another block. You need to do this 4/5x yr. so the 15,000 yr house fires will not occur. If the element is damaged it will physically break open or be stuck/welded to the heater case and you may need to yank it out being shorted to the case. The element part # 61927 and the element mount assy. will be burnt black at the point of issue. There is a thermal fuse mounted at the front of the heater can along with the thermal fuse. They now come in a kit part # R9900489. Your space heater runs on 120 vac. The dryer runs on 240 vac, not the same breaker/ circuit. Not likely a related issue. Do you also hear a thumping steady noise as if the blower wheel is stripped on the motor shaft. Blower part # 56000.You will need to hold the motor pulley and unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft with a wrench and socket. It is counterclockwise threads. If there is improper air flow this will overheat the internal parts also affecting as we spoke of b/4. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Marlane, I don't think you need a fuse, but it is a possible you need a thermostat WPY61372. Also check and make sure the exhaust venting is clear of any clogs or debris. Good Luck and Thanks

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1 Answer

Hello Marlane. You will need to raise the top of the dryer and remove the screws securing the front panel. Then remove the front panel. You will locate the heater 61927 under the drum on the left hand side of the unit in the back. You can access and replace the heater from this point. Hope this helps.

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Boom T. for Model Number LEM847W amana electric dryer

I ordered a thermal fuse which goes on the side of the heating element. I want to make sure I get it all wired back the way it should be. Will instructions come with the Thermal Fuse as to how to wire everything back up under their. Someone tried working on it before I got it and the wrong part was were the Thermal Fuse was supposed to be and a couple of wires were burnt up and I'm sure it wasn't wired properly. Just want to get it wired back right. Help!!

1 Answer

Hi Boom. Can you access the inside of the control panel back. Inside you will find your electrical wiring diagram which will show the correct colered wires and the manner that the "series" thermostats are wired. The heater assembly needs replaced so the new wires will not burn. This part # is 61927. Also It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. There is a gray wire that goes to the bottom of the thermal fuse (mounted to the rt.). The top of the thermal fuse is then jumpered to the rt side of the Limit thermostat (mounted on the Lt.). Then there is a black jumper wire from the top left of the heater to the left side terminal of the limit thermostat. They have to be the exact "gauge" wire size to safely carry the amperage needed for your system. Thank You.

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1 Answer

Hello Jon. Yes, according to the model number you provided, 61927 will work in your dryer. Hope this helps.

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