Customer Questions and Answers for Thermal Fuse Assembly by Whirlpool

Hello Sal, If the thermal cutout is opened, since it has a higher thermal quality than the high limit, this means the high limit didn't open when it should and the thermal cutout has opened. Since the high limit is resettable, it will close back when it cools down and the thermal cutout should not open. Be aware that these components are opened by high temperatures ONLY. This means that the exhaust duct has to have a crimp or clog which causes the heat, lint, and moisture to blow past the felt seals around the dryer tumbler. If the exhaust issue is not corrected, the thermal cutout will continue to experience failures. None of the manufacturers recommend the use of flexible ducting since they crimp when the unit is pushed back into position. They also trap the lint so it cannot be blown out and the duct will clog in a fraction of the time any solid duct can clog. Both components in the kit should ALWAYS be replaced at the same time or the issue will repeat.

Perry, You do have options, You may want to install a Dryer Fan Booster Kit TJTF4 / TJTF4, or a similar device. Based on your information your exhaust vent length is borderline if not exceeding the vent limit (you need to add 6 inches of vent length to each foot of vertical (up) vent length) . The fan booster kit should keep your dryer operating and heating properly.

Hello Rick, This is almost always caused by a restricted, crimped or excessively long or complicated exhaust duct,(too many turns). It can sometimes be caused by the laundry room having a door with no louvers in it and the door being closed when the unit is used. This prevents proper air flow and a heat build-up inside the unit sufficient to open the fuse. Overloading can also cause the issue.

Hello Heather, The thermistor for model DV220AEW/XAA is DC32-00007A.

Hello Debbie. You need to disconnect the power and remove the top and control panel and front panel to access the heater housing and test the thermal fuse WP35001193. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Mark, The exhaust cannot exceed the equivalent of 25 feet. What this means is that each 90° elbow slows the air flow the same as 6 feet of straight ducting. So, you have to add 6 feet at every 90° turn plus the straight footage. The dryer drum is riding on felt seals. If a little too much back pressure is built up, the lint, heat, and moisture will simply blow past the drum seals back into the cabinet. This is actually where the air is taken into the unit and also where the thermostats are located. This causes the thermostats to open prematurely and this will extend the dry cycle. This is also where the thermal fuse is located. Once it opens, since it isn't a thermostat and is a fuse, it's open until it's replaced. The exhaust should be a 4 inch diameter rigid, non-flexible aluminum duct that is as short and straight as possible. You see, the shorter and straighter the duct is, the faster and easier it is for the unit to rid itself of the heat, lint, and moisture and the clothes will dry faster, the unit will use less electricity, and the dryer will last you longer since it isn't running a long time putting wear on the mechanical and electrical parts. All manufacturers strongly recommend against the flexible ducting whether it is plastic or the foil type. The flexible ducting crimps off the air flow too much when the unit is pushed back into place. It also holds lint which, when ignited, goes off like flash paper and will cherry inside the duct. The flexible duct will just melt through, (yes, even the foil type will just melt), and then you have the lint "cherryed up" in the floor. I've been a technician for a very long time and I have never seen a thermal fuse blow that the exhaust duct wasn't in some way responsible. The duct still has to be too long, too crooked, crimped, or maybe the flapper door outside is stuck. There could be a screen outside that is stopped up. Whatever the reason, heat is being held inside the cabinet of the dryer. This heat is the culprit, so you must help the dryer to be able to get rid of it.

Hello Carlos. The thermostat WP35001193 should read closed for continuity. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Hello Dan. If the fuse WP35001193 is blowing, It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry or over heat. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly. Hope this helps.

Hi Omar. It sounds like the venting system is clogged or kinked. You will need to check the vent and clean it out. Be sure and clean the vent pipe and the dryer air duct assembly. If the air flow is not good, the unit will retain moist air causing the clothes not to dry. Try running the unit with the vent unhooked from the back of the dryer and see if the dryer works properly.The thermal fuse is part # WP35001193. If the heater is intermittently or partially shorted then this will attribute to this issue also. The heater is part # WPW10222771. Hope this helps. Thank you.

Hello Sam. Yes, you can test the thermostats with a multi meter MA-DM1. They should read closed at room temperature. Here is a link you can refer to for help with using a multi meter: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html . Hope this helps!