Skip to Content
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • lovely images 15 million satisfied customers
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store

Customer Questions and Answers for Defrost Bimetal by Whirlpool

Best Seller
Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18027960
Manufacturer Part Number: WP4387503

The Defrost Bimetal is an OEM part for Whirlpool refrigerators. It acts as a safety thermostat that monitors and controls the temperature during the defrost cycle. This component ensures that the defrost heater turns off when the evaporator coil reaches a specific temperature, preventing overheating and potential damage.

Causes of failure may include a malfunction due to wear and tear over time, electrical failure, or damage from moisture and ice.  

Symptoms of a bad Defrost Bimetal include:

  • The refrigerator is constantly running without cycling off
  • Frost buildup on the evaporator coils, leading to reduced cooling efficiency
  • The refrigerator or freezer compartment is too warm
  • Unusual fluctuations in refrigerator temperature

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

More
$31.95
Compare At:
$38.02
You Save:
$6.07

IN STOCK
Ships Monday Guaranteed
Add to Cart

Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Defrost Bimetal (Part Number: OEM18027960)

1 Answer

Hello David, This is more likely a poor water fill due to low water pressure, a failing water valve WPW10238100, or the icemaker WPW10251076 contacts inside the motor module. The water valve is the most common cause.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Mathew. Check and see if the coils are dirty. If they are, it can cause it. If they are clean, the fan should run as long as the compressor is running. This could indicate a bad cold control WP2204605 on the unit.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Pete. No, if the unit is not cooling, and the motor is not running, it sounds like the compressor may be bad. If the compressor is running, then check the condenser coils and the condenser fan motor and the evaporator fan motor.

Read More...

1 Answer

Jose, It sounds like the defrost timer may be the issue of the unit not cooling. When the unit shuts down if you go into the refrigerator section and on the bottom of the control there is a hole that you can insert a flat blade screwdriver and turn the dial the unit should kick on. If it does then the timer would need to be replaced.

Read More...

1 Answer

Hello Doug. It could be the cold control sticking or the defrost timer sticking on the unit. You will need to check both parts on the unit.

Read More...

1 Answer

Todd, If you have a digital multimeter with an audible tone you will hear a tone when you go across the 2 leads of the bimetal. This bi metal would need to be below 20 degrees to get an accurate reading. You will also want to do a continuity test of the heating element to make sure that it is not bad.

Read More...

1 Answer

Ed, It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html

Read More...
Rich for Model Number ET1MTKXKT02

At what temperature should the defrost bimetal close? I packed mine in ice, but it still did not close. Since I recently purchased it, I hope that it is not bad. We have been getting water in the refrigerator and ice in the back and bottom of the freezer that blocks the drain. I checked that I have 120VAC at the bimetal when in defrost mode, and no voltage when the refrigerator is in cooling mode. If I shunt across the bimetal in defrost mode the heater works. I can tell that the timer also is working, so I am reasonably sure that the bimetal is the problem.

1 Answer

Hello Henry. No, it should read open when warm and closed when cold. Make sure the meter is set on the right setting for continuity. It should beep when both leads are touched together to read closed.

Read More...

Have questions? Ask our pros!

Contact us in a way that is convenient for you

Call us 1-877-477-7278
Need Help? Chat with a Pro
Or ask a question by filling in the form

Share your thoughts with other customers

Ask a Question
  • boxes images Over 2.1 Million Parts In Stock
  • time delivery images 2 Day Quick Delivery!
  • box-refresh images 365 Day Return Policy!
  • headphone imagesFree Tech Support!
  • google images Google Trusted Store