Jim December 11, 2012 for Model Number GR9FHKXPB00 I replaced my defrost timer a few weeks ago, as the original timer was sticking in defrost mode. I confirmed that the timer was hooked up correctly as there is an extra black wire which I installed on terminal #1. The new timer worked great for 5 or 6 days, and then stuck again in defrost mode. When I advance the timer manually with a screwdriver, it works okay for a few days, then sticks again in defrost mode. Do you think I might have gotten a defective timer as a replacement , and buy another one? I'm thinking the defrost bi-metal (part# 4387503) might be causing the problem. Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated.
1 Answer Hello Jim. Black wire is in wrong location on the timer. For cumulative run timer push slotted loose timer motor lead over & all the way down terminal number 2 with wire toward timer motor. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Bert. The wire colors do not matter. The Bi-metal WP4387503 is a closed circuit. As long as the temperature when it opens is the same, that is all that matters. Read More...
Jim November 08, 2012 for Model Number Whirlpool GT1HTXLQ01 My refrigerator goes on and off very often, sometimes several times a minute. Is there some control besides the main thermostat that could cause this? I don't here the big click like when the main thermostat goes on and off.
1 Answer Hello Jim, I would check the start relay on the compressor to see if it is bad. Normally when you pull the relay off and shake it against your hand, there might be particles of ceramic that come out. If this happens then you would need a new relay. We would need to verify your refrigerator model number to help further. Please post your model number with a new question on the parts page. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx Read More...
1 Answer Hello John. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Wei April 09, 2012 for Model Number Amana Where is the Model number located for Amana side by side bought in 1999 ?
1 Answer Hello Wei. Here is a link to our model number locator to help you find the model number. Hope this helps. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx Read More...
Michael April 05, 2012 for Model Number ET8LFKXKQ01 I am considering the bi-metal defrost thermostat being the problem. The coil in the back wall of the freezer compartment totally ices up. The icemaker production slows down and both the refrigerator and the freezer are not as cool as normal. After turning the unit off and defrosting everything, including the ventilation tube the scenario repeated itself after a few days. I can advance the defrost timer manually and the unit shuts off. During this period I can detect no noise indicating a thawing process, and it seems the only time the unit shuts off automatically is when the temperature dial is raised to the warmest position.
1 Answer Hello Michael, I'm assuming that when you force the unit into defrost at the defrost timer it is cycling itself back out of defrost by itself. If not, the defrost timer isn't advancing and will require replacement. If it is then the defrost thermostat or the heater are the main concerns. The thermostat cannot be tested unless it's below about 25°F. In this state it will be closed, (zero resistance). Also, this defrost thermostat WP4387503 has the epoxy top so you should examine it carefully as if the epoxy is protruding from the metal cup, it has been contaminated with moisture and requires replacement. Let me know if I can assist you futher. Read More...
Steve March 02, 2012 for Model Number 10676244401 Ice forms around the evaporator and the evaporator tray fills with ice. The drain tube also fills with ice, no water reaches the pan
1 Answer Hello Steve. Sounds like your defrost drain has frozen up. This isn't a big deal, just time consuming. You have to remove the back wall of the freezer compartment and get you hair dryer. The defrost drain is in the floor in the back of the freezer compartment (usually in the center). I usually use a paint scraper to remove all of the ice I can get out without damaging any Styrofoam. Then use the hair dryer to start melting ice. When the ice is gone except for the ice in the drain hole, I use a screwdriver to transfer the heat,(I stand the screwdriver up on the ice in the hole and heat the screwdriver shaft with the hairdryer). This method works great but is, as I said, a time consuming endeavor. You can speed things up if you have a portable steamer used for steaming clothes. It will melt the ice faster but you have to also use a shop vac to catch all of the water it produces. Once you get the drain clear, use a piece of weed eater string to chase the entire drain (never use wire or anything that can puncture the rubber drain tube!). After this is complete, I always put about a tablespoon of white vinegar in the drain to prevent algae formation which will also cause the drain to stop up again. Next, set the freezer to one number warmer, which will prevent the drain from freezing again if it froze due to excessively low temperatures. Good luck and I sure hope I've helped! Read More...
Jose December 09, 2011 for Model Number ksfs20qweh1 Hi, still having trouble with frige not cooling. I replaced bimetal swich evap motor and defrost board everything starts and runs but the evap fan dont come on and the evaporator dont get cold. Do you have any other ideas? I also replaced the freezer control. Jose
1 Answer Hello Jose. Check and see if the compressor is running. If not, test for power to the compressor. If there is none there, and the defrost board is new, you may have a broken or bad wire on the unit. You will need to track the wires and check the connectors. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Jose December 01, 2011 for Model Number ksfs20qewhi Hi, my fridge stopped cooling. The compresser starts and runs. Condenser fan also runs, but the evaporator fan motor does not. I replaced the evap motor with a new one and it still dont work. I jumped the bimetal defrost switch and the fan motor started to run. Does this mean the bimetal switch is bad?
1 Answer Hello Jose. It sounds like you may have an issue with the defrost board 12050506. This powers the evaporator fan motor and works with the cooling of the unit. This part has been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer and we don't know of any source or replacement for the part. Thanks. Read More...
Chris November 12, 2011 for Model Number 106.72132101 (kenmore coldspot) My freezer is building up ice on the back of the freezer....so i took everthing out let it defrost and cleaned out the drain tube and took an air compressor to the bottom of the frige....i belive it is the auto defrost but i dont know how to get to it to see if is working and is there a visual that would be a type of give away that it is bad or could it be another problem
1 Answer Chris, A visual inspection won't work, You will need to test the defrost thermostat WP4387503 and heater WP2315530 for an "open"(no resistance) circuit or a "closed"(continuity) circuit with a multimeter. To access the heater and thermostat, you will need to remove the back wall of the freezer compartment, carefully disconnect the wire harnesses, and of course, you need to unplug the power cord first. The defrost thermostat has to be in an ice water bath in order for it to be a closed circuit. If the components test proper with a meter, you pretty much have it isolated to a bad defrost control/timer W10822278 located in the control panel assembly in the ceiling of the fridge compartment. Thanks and Good Luck Read More...