Allami May 02, 2023 for Model Number st21hpxpq00 Where can find the thermostat in my whirlpool fridge? I looked in the freezer box and can not find the bimetal thermostat?
1 Answer Hello Alami, the defrost thermostat is attached to the evap coil tubing behind the freezer rear wall, it is part WP4387503, if needed there is a repair video listed under that part number on our website . Read More...
Brad Harris July 21, 2021 for Model Number WRT111SFDM03 My refrigerator and top freezer stays warm and will not get cold. I have replaced start relay, run capacitor and the bi-metal defrost thermostat. The compressor turns on and runs and get warm to touch and one of the lines get cool, also the evaporator fan works but only warn air in the freezer. This unit does not have a compressor fan. I'm wondering what should be the next thing I should troubleshoot. I would appreciate any help that you can provide. Thank You, Brad Harris
1 Answer Brad, If the compressor is running but the unit is not cooling then it would be recommended to have service on the unit as it sounds like there is a sealed system issue. Read More...
Samuel September 10, 2020 for Model Number WSF26C2EXY02 I have this side by side. One day it stopped cooling. The compressor and the condenser fan don't start. I bypass fan separately and compressor plugged in directly and it was running well. I thought it's the relay and capacitor so I bought a 3in1. Relay combo kit. Looks like does the same as before with the old relay, makes a short kick, and doesn't want to start. Do you think can be the control border? I checked the white and red wire the once who enter the compressor and I had 0.3-0.5V on the 200V scale. Feels like it doesn't get power to fire the compressor. The funny thing is when I plugged just the compressor and fan directly was working fine. Usually how many volts I should get from control board on those white and red wire?Thanks Sam L. for Model Number WSF26C2EXY02
1 Answer Samuel, Based on the information provided it does not sound as if you are getting the voltage from the board, the red and white wires should read 120vac if the board is in the run position. Read More...
Sam L. September 01, 2020 for Model Number WSF26C2EXY02 I have this side by side. One day it stopped cooling. The compressor and the fan don't start. Check the fan separately and was running well. I thought it's the relay and capacitor so I bought a 3in1. Relay combo kit. Looks like does the same as before with the old relay, makes a short kick, and doesn't want to start. I did the service diagnostic mode and the only one looked different was the defrost heater/by-metal was on bimetal open. Is there something I should check other than the relay? Can it be something about the thermostat? Thanks
1 Answer Hello Sam, The compressor, condenser fan, and the evaporator fan should all come on at the same time. The start relay has nothing to do with either fan motor. The only time I use a 3 in 1 device to see if a compressor that is not starting, will start and run with the extra kick of amperage. If anything is not running you should eliminate the wiring as a cause first then verify voltage from the board. Read More...
John May 08, 2020 for Model Number whirlpool-gr9shkxkq00 Wondering if the range on my Defrost Thermostat is adequate for this freezer. It is marked L62-14F. It seems kind of high for limits and closing (48F). I'm pure amateur but from reading on thermostats, it seems the range is just outside the upper range of acceptable. I've replaced the thermostat in our freezer and tested with multimeter. It definitely works. However, the freezer coils still freeze over. Assumming at this point it is the actual heater and have one on the way and should be here tomorrow! Just curious though, is the temperature range on this thermostat acceptable?
1 Answer Hello John, the defrost thermostat temp range is matched to the ref model design, the defrost heater can checked and is rated to be between 31-42 ohms, the defrost timer controls defrost cycle timing based on compressor run time. Read More...
Joseph October 18, 2019 for Model Number et1chmxkbo3 My whirlpool refrigerator periodically has water leaking inside from the defrost openings. Also, the freezer has some ice forming on the plastic bottom liner. What would cause this? Is this a bad defrost bimetal? No frost on the evaporator and drain line is clear.
1 Answer Joseph, The defrost bimetal is a possibility, but not likely, based on your post description. You most likely have a clogged or frozen defrost drain trough or drain tube. The defrost water doesn' t drain, accumulates in the trough, and overflows out the evaporator cover. You'll need to access the defrost trough in the freezer, and remove the ait tunnel cover at the back of the refrigerator ceiling. use a turkey baster, hot water and a flexible line (trombone cleaner, large-diameter trim line from a weed eater, and clear and flush the drain tube, then install the 819043 D/F Drain Heat Probe and check both doors for proper closure and seal. Read More...
Kirk September 25, 2019 for Model Number WRF990SLAM00 Freezer not getting cold enough, everything checks out in diagnostic mode except defrost heater bimetal is open, the troubleshooting guide says that it if it is open it should be by-passed for the heater to operate. Could this be the reason for the freezer not getting cold and there is ice covering a good portion of the evaporator?
1 Answer Kirk, the defrost bi-metal being in an open condition will certainly cause a cooling issue as it creates a defrost issue. The defrost bi-metal can be verified for failure from the main control by testing at connection P2 from the pink wire to the brown wire for continuity. If there is not continuity, then the bi-metal has failed. If there is continuity, then it is likely that the main control has failed. The defrost heater can be tested for condition by testing at connection P2 from the brown wire to the white wire at the power supply board on connection P1. The defrost heater should measure 30 ohms of resistance. Read More...
Johnv June 11, 2019 for Model Number ET18DKXXN10 SYMPTOM: 1. The freezer portion of the unit runs now between 25 to 35 degrees. 2. The refrigerator runs, but now close 48-50 degrees, all the time. So, both halves obviously are not doing what they're supposed to do. WHICH PART(S) would likely repair my unit properly? THANK YOU for responding.
1 Answer Hello Johnv, check the condenser assembly is clear and the condenser fan is running. Next remove the inner rear wall of the freezer and check the frost build up on the evaporator coil. If there is a heavy build up then there is a defrost problem. If very little frost then the sealed system has a problem. Read More...
Woody October 14, 2017 for Model Number ET1MHKXMT01 Whirlpool model ET1MHKXMT01 keeps freezing the water fill tube angling down to the ice maker and ice will build up below the coil. Removed the ice maker and unplugged the solenoid valve wires, melted the ice away and cleared the drain line. Now it just builds up ice in the freezer, under the coil, over time (several weeks.).
1 Answer Woody, For the issue of the fill tube freezing then will be a faulty water valve and the issue with the ice int he bottom under evaportoar you will want to in clean trough and install drain hea probe 819043. Read More...
Rose June 16, 2017 for Model Number Sub Zero Refrigerator Model 501R Serial #M1305968 I have a sub zero refrigerator that needs a bi metal. However, when I go to look for a bi metal compatible for my refrigerator I come up empty handed. All the parts I have looked up, don't appear to go to my refrigerator. Can you help me?
1 Answer Rose, Unfortunately we do not have any parts for SubZero products to be able to assist with your question. Read More...