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Customer Questions and Answers for Washer Drive Block by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18026517
Manufacturer Part Number: WP389140

The Washer Drive Block is an OEM part for Whirlpool washing machines. This component is situated between the washer's transmission and the inner tub, playing a key role in transferring the rotational motion from the motor to the tub. 

Causes for replacement often stem from normal wear and tear, which can lead to the drive block becoming worn or damaged. This wear can prevent the drive block from properly engaging with the tub, leading to inefficient cycles and potential damage to other parts of the washing machine.

Symptoms of a bad Washer Drive Block include:

  • The washer tub has difficulty agitating or spinning.
  • A loud noise during the spin cycle, indicating that the tub is not engaging correctly with the transmission.
  • The machine vibrates excessively or seems off-balance, even with a balanced load.

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper and some Kenmore models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Washer Drive Block (Part Number: OEM18026517)

Len for Model Number 110-82673810

1st thanks for the excellent video on how to replace the drive block. After reading through some of the questions I found a symptom that my washer has, a knock when it engages and disengages the spin cycle please advise if this would be the drive block. I also have another knocking noise, its when its in the wash cycle. The noise is in sync with the Agitator as is pauses. It knocks when the Agitator begins to move again after the momentary pause. Sounds similar to a rod bearing knock. Could this be the Agitator in need of a repair kit or replaced? Also are the a set of 4 dogs in both the lower and upper Agitators? Please advise and thank you. Len

Jase for Model Number 11028532701

The washer will fill, but there is a humming noise near the right back side of the washer. The washer will not kick into the agitation cycle on any of the wash cycles... However, it does spin and drain. the water... Steps I have taken: -Checked the Motor coupling it is fine, -Replaced the dog agitators - Tested the capacitor It has a reading of 208 which is in the range of the 198-227. The spin cycle comes after the agitation. So I wouldn't think it would be an electrical issue.. I would think the motor is fine if it still spins... Where would be the best place to start?

1 Answer

Jase, Start with, using the tech sheet packaged with the machine. Test for proper power to the motor during agitation.

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1 Answer

Hello Ryan, the usual procedure is to use penetrating oil and give it time to work. We would not have any way of knowing what could be damaged in the attempt to pound the part out.

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1 Answer

Hello Frank, access the lower base of the washer and check the springs and glide pads.

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Bob for Model Number WTW4810BQ1

This washer was unused in a vacant house for a number of years. I Recently put it in the service. The washer was doing a poor job of cleaning clothes. I have diagnosed that it is not properly agitating. I have replaced the polls. The agitator turns correctly and stops when turned in the opposite direction. It also appears to agitate correctly when in test mode, but can be easily stopped with my hand. It is very weak when clothes are put in. I have replaced the belt, agitator pawls (which were broken), the shift actuator, and the drive block. None of this has corrected the problem. It spins absolutely fine, and is strong. Any ideas before I buy a new washer? Thanks!

1 Answer

Hello Bob, first run the diagnostic test for any fault codes, the Tech sheet is located behind the front panel near the top. Weak agitation can be caused by a weak motor, weak motor capacitator, or failing main control board.

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1 Answer

Matthew, It would be suggested to put the unit through a cycle and after it drains, try lifting the lid and then closing it to see if the washer will then spin. If it does then this would be a gearcase issue in which the gearcase would need to be replaced.

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Chris for Model Number LSR7233EQ0

My washer will not transition from agitate to spin on its own. With the lid switch defeated I have watched the process. When it starts any spin cycle the agitator moves an 1/8 turn or less then stops and water starts to drain out. There is an unusual sound (not a squeak or squeal) but the tub does not move. I stop the washer (with lid switch or knob) and there is a clunk and the tub moves clockwise slightly. When I restart the machine the tub and agitator spin clockwise quickly, there is no unusual souond, and the washer works fine until the next spin cycle. I have replaced the gearcase and timer but I suppose one of those could be defective. But defective in exactly the same as my issue seems unlikely.

1 Answer

Chris, This unit has a neutral drain in which it will allow the unit to go into the spin after drain. If the unit is not going to spin on its own without activating the lid switch or the knob then the neutral drain which is part of the transmission will be the issue.

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Mark for Model Number RTW4640YQ1

Hello Sirs: Thank you for the tech sheet. When I entered the Fault Code Display Mode, it showed the error code "F7E1". I followed the instruct, entered the Manual Test Mode, "Heavy Agitation" test is always past, the "High Spin" test was always failed and "Low Spin" test was sometime failed, after I entered the calibration mode, "Low Spin" test was past. But sometime the "Low Spin" test was failed again. Do you have any suggestion? What issue it maybe? Thanks.

1 Answer

Mark, it would be recommended that the motor WPW10677715 windings are tested for resistance. At the main control connection J16 from the wire at pin 5 to the wire at pin 6, there should be a resistance between 5O to 9.5O. Then from the wire at pin 5 to the wire at pin 7, there should be a similar resistance. If the motor tests good, then the shift actuator WPW10006355 would need to be tested from the main control at connection J2. With the washer turned on, the red meter probe will go to pin 4 and the black meter probe to pin 3 and there should be a 13VDC reading. If there is 13VDC, the next step would be to activate the tachometer test in diagnostics and rotating the spin basket by hand slowly. This should cause the LEDs to illuminate one at a time to represent basket RPM. If there is not 13VDC or the LEDs do illuminate one at a time, it would likely be that the main control W10484681 failed. If the LEDs do not illuminate one at a time, it is likely that the actuator has failed.

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