Customer Questions and Answers for Electronic Control Board by Whirlpool

Bill, This is the correct board for your machine and on our website just under the part, there is a detailed video on the replacement and programming of this board. WPW10503278

Curt, with the power supply cord unplugged, the defrost heater circuit would need to be tested from the adaptive defrost control 61005988 (unfortunately, this part has been discontinued and is no longer available). From the yellow wire to the red wire at the adapter, there should be a resistance reading between 20 to 40 Ohms. If the resistance is good, the adaptive defrost control has failed. If the reading is infinite or 0L, the heater (20-40 Ohms) and the bi-metal (should have continuity) would need to be tested individually to identify if the failure is in the heater and bi-metal assembly WP61006199 or if it might be a failure in the wiring inside the refrigerator liner.

David, The only place to get the programming code for the unit would have been on the sticker inside the refrigerator section with the model and serial tag on it. The 10 that you saw on the sticker on the back is the series number but not the programming code.

Hello VT, if the motorized damper for the fresh food section located on the top middle rear wall is open then the air flow from the freezer is restricted, possibly due to a defrosting problem. Your ref model came with a technical data sheet listing all testing procedures, it is located under the front lower cabinet behind the grill.

PaulM, Thanks for the question, If this board is the part number called out for your model number the board revision should not change the operation of your appliance. The only way to find what the differences would be is to contact the manufacturer. Revision changes typically are software updates to correct small bugs. Make sure you use the model number to search for parts.

Jim, if the thermistors test within range in comparison to the temperature they sense, (10KO at 77°F, 29.5KO at 36°F, and 86.3KO at 0°F) and the wires are not damaged, then the main control WPW10503278 would be the likely cause.

Hello Christian, this sounds like a power /voltage loss in the ref. Start by unplugging the ref from power, access the rear of the ref and remove the compressor cover, locate the rear wire harness where it plugs into the lower cabinet and check for any problems, loose plug, wiring terminals, overheated wiring insulation. If ok then next go to the fresh food section and take down the control board and do the same checks at the wiring connections to the control board, if ok next you will need to take down the ceiling light cover then the large cover (control and lights bracket/cover) the light cover attached to. There is a large wire harness jumper there, check both wire harness ends the same way you checked the other wire harnesses.

Hello Paul, The forced defrost function is performed using the refrigerator display and keypad. Enter the forced defrost mode by performing the following: 1. Hold the refrigerator door light switch closed. 2. Press the refrigerator down keypad 3 times consecutively. Note: The 3 keystrokes must be consecutive and within 10 seconds. 3. Release the refrigerator door light switch. 4. The control will display Fd to confirm entry into the forced defrost mode. 5. Entry is confirmed by pressing the refrigerator down key once more. The unit is off and in the defrost mode. Note: All control functions will be turned off (compressor, defrost, evaporator fan, the damper will remain in the current position). 6. The control will default to the short run period test signified with an "S" in the refrigerator side of the display. Note: You can toggle between the (S)hort and (L)ong test mode by pressing the refrigerator up key. Long test mode is used for factory test and should not be used in the field. 7. Once the desired mode is displayed, confirm the forced defrost by pressing the refrigerator down key once. The defrost will begin immediately and the display will return to a normal operating display with set point values. 8. Close the refrigerator door(s). You are in the defrost mode. Note: Forced defrost mode can be exited at any time prior to step 7 by closing the refrigerator door(s).

Hello Bill, try to find out where the noise is coming from first. If in fresh food section check to see if the damper mounted on rear wall in center top is opening/closing non stop. If in the freezer section check if the ice maker is making ice or just rotating. If the noise seems to be underneath/behind the cabinet,take off the rear compartment cover and check if its from the compressor.

Ed, for the condenser fan motor to be constantly running, the compressor will be running at the same time. You will want to check the thermistors for resistance to ensure that they are reading the proper temperatures. From there, you will want to ensure that the compressor tests good because an inefficient compressor can cause excessive run times. You may also want to check for freon leaks by looking for oil on the sealed system. Information to assist with this testing will be sent to you.