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Customer Questions and Answers for Surface Element (Top Burner) by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18092835
Manufacturer Part Number: W10823720

Restore a reliable burner with this replacement surface element. It provides the heat your cookware needs so meals warm efficiently and evenly when the control is turned on, replacing a worn or failed top burner element. What it does:

  • Heats the selected cooking zone when its control is engaged
  • Replaces a failed, shorted, or physically damaged element
  • Helps resolve issues like a burner not heating, heating only partially, or heating inconsistently
  • Supports even cooking performance across the cooking surface
What's included:
  • 1 surface element
Install notes:
  • Disconnect power at the breaker or unplug the appliance; allow all components to cool
  • Access the element; support the cooktop surface if lifted
  • Move wires to the new element one at a time to maintain correct connections; reuse existing brackets as needed
  • Handle the element carefully; avoid touching heating surfaces and verify secure connections before reassembly and testing

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$162.46
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$194.95
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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Surface Element (Top Burner) (Part Number: OEM18092835)

Dan for Model Number JER8885RAS

This question regards a Jenn-Air range (JER8885ras) in which the inner ring on the triple element (front right) has stopped working. Turning the control knob to the left does not heat up the inner element ring. Turning the control knob to the right does make the middle & outer rings heat up only (no heat on inner ring as well). In this setting, the rocker switch works to heat middle ring vs middle & outer rings. In no setting does the inner ring work. The replacement part ordered for the triple element (W10823720) was installed, but does NOT heat up under any setting. This was the manufacturer replacement part for the original part (74011218) included with this Jenn-Air stove. Additional notes - Before the inner ring on the original triple element stopped working, I noticed that there was a spot on the inner ring that was bright hot (like a cinder) like it was burning out. However, it did not appear burnt or with a broken coil when I was swapping out the element parts. So - based on the diagnosis provided, couple of questions: 1) If it's the triple element that is failed, do I need to get the original part (74011218) to fix this problem or 2) Could this be instead caused by the Infinity control knob? Any help would be very much appreciated!! Dan

Ko for Model Number JER8885RAS

Was having the same problems described in other questions with the inner element of the triple burner not working. Replaced the element with the new element, the burner does not work at all now and the element on indicator light has now come on. Tested this and the element light on indicator light only came on when triple burner switch was connected. Replaced the triple burner switch. The triple element still does not work at all and now the element on indicator light flashes rapidly. What else could the issue be?

1 Answer

KO, With the element having been replaced, this would most likely be caused by a faulty infinite switch.

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Roy for Model Number Whirlpool Range Triple Element 74011218 NEW

Not a question but an answer, sort of, to the folks that are having the middle element of the right/front burner ring not working. Mine failed after 4 years of casual use. I disassembled the range top and inspected the heater element. The brown, ceramic like material which forms the inner base of the elements and holds the 3 separate corrugated heater strip was cracked. At this crack location, the heater strip was stressed and broken, losing continuity. So basically, the failure was a mechanical problem leading to an electrical open circuit. Totally irreparable. I purchased a new element and replaced it without difficulty.

1 Answer

Steve, This would be the dual infinite switch and the correct part number will depend on the series. If the first 2 digits of the serial number are 10-16 then the part number will be 7450P033-60 and if the first 2 are 17 or later then the part number is W10177711.

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Woody for Model Number MER5775RAS

I've read several other posts, same problem triple element only outer 2 elemnts work & center does not. We did flashlight test & there appears to be no burn marks or broken rings. Read that the problem is more likely an infinite switch issue. However there are 3 'infinite switch' item #s to choose from each with a variation in pricing & all when clicking on parts diagram say they are #6 in the picture. Which one is the one we need to control our triple element? MER5775RAS Maytag purchased about 4 yrs ago.

1 Answer

Barry, The Rocker switch 7403P985-60 only comes into play, when you select it to activate the third element. When you press the switch, the circuit "closes" and allows 120 VAC (L1) to one side of the element. When the button is deselected, the circuit "opens" (infinite resistance) and the 120 VAC L1 power stops at the rocker switch(only the single or double elements work, depending on the infinite switch selection / position). Yes a faulty infinite switch could damage a rocker switch, as could a shorted wire or element, but at this point, the rocker switch is working properly based on your post information.

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1 Answer

Hi David. The triple element is part # W10823720. Use a flashlight to see if the ribbon type of element is open. Just above the ft. rt. switch is a rocker type of switch that you select before you use the infinite switch to select the inner or outer elements of that burner. It is part # 7403P985-60. Use a ohm meter to see if there is continuity between the contacts as you toggle them on / off. Are the connections there burnt or loose ? Then please look carefully at the wires connected to the infinite switch. Are they loose or tight. Sometimes you can see a burnt contact that shows a faulty switch. Please use a magnifying glass to tell us what the terminals are labeled along with the color of wire going to that terminal. The wiring diagram is behind the storage drawer or behind the control panel folded in a packet. You should have a switch with S1,S2,P,and a 4 terminal, correct ? I want to make sure so you do not get the incorrect part. http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16023416.pdf http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16027361.pdf If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. Thank You.

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