Jerry November 20, 2014 for Model Number ED25PQXDW03 My 1997 Whirlpool two door refrigerator, model number ED25PQXDW03, has started tripping the GFCI breaker on the electrical outlet it’s plugged into (in the garage) after running for a while. It’s been in the garage for about 5 months now and it just started doing this last week. The breaker is always tripped when the defrost timer is in defrost mode. During troubleshooting via YouTube the defrost thermometer failed the ice water ohm meter test so I replaced it. I also checked the heating element while I was in there and it passed the continuity test I did with the ohm meter. I decided to do a mini rebuild on my refrigerator while I had it apart and the following items have also been replaced as well: the overload and relay for the compressor, the cold control (old one had some black powder under it) and the defrost timer. The underside grill was cleaned out of all dust with a grill brush I bought. Everything was running fine and the unit was cooling down when I went to bed last night. This morning when I got up the GFCI was tripped (and the timer was in defrost). I tried to reset the fuse and it kept popping. When I turned the timer out of defrost the fuse could be rest and the refrigerator started running again. I read in another Q&A for a different model refrigerator the GFCI its self could be the problem (with nuisance tripping). Is that true with my model as well? I can change out the electrical outlet and change the fuse in the fuse box if need be. Thank you, I’ve learned allot about refrigerators during this.
1 Answer Hello Jerry. Yes, the manufacturer never recommends a refrigerator to be on a GFCI outlet. Read More...
Lynette September 07, 2013 for Model Number ED5JHEXTQ00 Whirlpool I bought part 2323198 defrost heater and watched video. My model is different than that of one in video. The bottom rails are not removable. How can I get the heater pan out to remove the defrost heater? Please help. I've been without refrigerator for about 3 weeks now.
1 Answer Lynette, We reviewed the video for the heater element replacement. We find it to be pretty accurate. In your case, you have molded in "slides" for the lower bin(s). You may find it easiest, if once you have the evaporator cover screws removed and the top portion remove from the fan housing assembly, to raise the cover up enough the clear the molded in slides, then slide the cover up and out of the freezer compartment. You'll need to be careful, the cover does have sharp edges, and can damage the freezer liner, you'll find it safer to slightly "twist" the panel to keep the edges away from the liner. Read More...
1 Answer Hello Eddie. Here is a link to our Repair Forum, this is a free service to our customers. Use this link to access the repair for your question. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/193358-freezer-fridge-not-cooling.html Read More...
Richard P. September 07, 2012 for Model Number Whirlpool ED25CQ My refrigerator trip the GFI breaker after running for a several hours. If I reset the GFI and turn the defrost timer until it clicks, the refrigerator begins to run again. Could it be a shorted defrost timer or a shorted heater element? What's the easiest way to troubleshoot. Please help.
1 Answer Hello Richard, The manufacturer advises against plugging into a GFCI receptacle. This is directly from an installation guide for a 22 cubic foot refrigerator: Electrical: A 115 Volt, 60 Hz., AC only, 15- or 20-amp electrical supply, properly grounded in accordance with the National Electrical Code and local codes and ordinances, is required. It is recommended that a separate circuit, serving only your refrigerator, be provided. Use a receptacle which cannot be turned off by a switch or pull chain. IMPORTANT: If this product is connected to a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) equipped outlet, nuisance tripping of the power supply may occur, resulting in loss of cooling. Food quality and flavor may be affected. If nuisance tripping has occurred, and if the condition of the food appears poor, dispose of it. Water: A cold water supply with water pressure between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa) is required to operate ice maker and water dispenser. If you have questions about your water pressure, call a licensed, qualified plumber. Reverse Osmosis Water Supply: The pressure of the water coming out of a reverse osmosis system going to the water inlet valve of the refrigerator needs to be between 30 and 120 psi (207 and 827 kPa). I doubt that there is anything wrong with the unit since it has a strong current draw during defrost and during the initial start-up of the compressor. If you wanted to check for sure, you could use a heavy duty three prong appliance extension cord to try plugging the unit into a standard receptacle. It has to be a dedicated line so if anything else is running off the same breaker, the additional load would have to be removed to prove a problem with the unit. Read More...
Jeff May 20, 2012 for Model Number 106.56689502 Mine is definetly frosting the rear panel in freezer. The bi metal is continuously open and will not close when cold so I know it is bad. When that circuit is open I am getting 78 volts to the plugs for the heater. When I close that circuit by putting the bimetal leads together the voltage to the heater leads drops to 17volts. In either situation the heater will not get warm. Are those the proper voltages and should the heater be getting warm? Also is there a timer or programer of some sort involved? Thanks for your help.
1 Answer Hello Jeff. If the voltage is dropping, you have other issues as well. It may be the timer breaking down, or it could be a wiring issue with the unit. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. Here is a link on how to use a multi-meter. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Carl March 04, 2012 for Model Number 106.56689501 I tested the defrost heater, 20 ohms however would not give me a continuity alarm on my meter and tested the defrost thermostat, it seems to be good. Any ideas what to test next. It seems to to be the common problem, freezer is normal and refrigerator is a little warm. Also is there a way to start a manual defrost. Thanks for the help.
1 Answer Hello Carl. If the heater and the thermostat are good, but the unit does not defrost, you will need to replace the electronic control WP2313177. If you turn the unit on and off, 5 times within 10 seconds, it should go into defrost. Hope this helps. Read More...
John March 02, 2012 for Model Number ed5thaxms Freezer side works well, but the refrigerator side does not get cold.
1 Answer Hello John. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater WP2323198 and the defrost thermostat. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Judy December 15, 2011 for Model Number 106-565-39400 Freezer is 5 degrees but frig is 50 degrees, coil is iced over. What could be our problem?
1 Answer Hello Judy. It sounds like you may have a defrost problem with the unit. Check and see if there is any frost build up on the back wall of the freezer. If so, you will need to test the defrost heater WP2323198 and the defrost thermostat WPW10225581. They should read closed for continuity when cold. You can test this with a multi-meter TJMA-DMT3. I will include a link at the end to assist you how to use the multi-meter if needed. If both parts are good, you will need to replace the defrost timer 8201661. Once the problem is repaired, you will need to thaw out the ice on the coils before the unit will operate properly. Hope this helps. http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/oven-repair-including-ranges-cooktops/4810-how-check-continuity-ohmmeter.html Read More...
Bob October 24, 2011 for Model Number ED5FHEXMS00 My freezer started dripping and noticed refrig was not cold. Pulled it out cleaned coils and vacuumed. It was unplugged for 1 1/2 hours. Then plugged it in and checked about 1/2 hr later. Both refrig and freezer getting cold. Heard it making ice, then about a couple hours later saw ice maker was dripping again. I know there are a couple of possibilities.One being defrost control board. How would I test it to know if that is the part I need. Please walk me thru what it could be and how to diagnosis Thanks !
1 Answer Bob, did you ever notice a patch of heavy frost, or ice on the back wall of the freezer, this would indicate a defrost problem. If all you have is an icicle from the icemaker drip, it's most likely causing the evaporator fan to seize up and not turn and ciculate the air. If that's the case you'd want to consider a new fill valve W10408179 or adjusting the fill time/level of the icemaker. Thanks and Good Luck Read More...
Guy D. August 19, 2011 for Model Number ed25tqxfw01 Ice build up on freezer coils. I replaced defrost timer control, heating element still not heating. Should I replace element and bi metal? How difficult is this to do? Thank You. Guy GuyThank You Guy
1 Answer Hi Guy. Yes, 60% of defrost failures are because of the defrost thermostat part # WPW10225581. You can use a ohm meter to check the continuity of the heater should read 11-18 ohms. This part # is WP2323198. Thank you. Read More...