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Customer Questions and Answers for Dryer Heating Element by Whirlpool

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Manufacturer Part
4.89 (64)
By: Whirlpool
Part Number: OEM18024852
Manufacturer Part Number: WP3387747

The Dryer Heating Element is an OEM replacement part for Whirlpool dryers. It is responsible for generating the heat necessary for the drying process, ensuring clothes and fabrics are thoroughly dried.

Symptoms of a bad dryer heating element include:

  • Clothes coming out damp or taking excessive time to dry
  • No heat or insufficient heat produced during the drying cycle  
  • Visible signs of damage or burnout on the heating element itself
  • Unusual burning smells emanating from the dryer

Causes of a faulty heating element can include normal wear over time, electrical issues, or physical damage from impact or overloading.  

This OEM Whirlpool part is also compatible with Maytag, KitchenAid, Jenn-Air, Amana, Magic Chef, Admiral, Norge, Roper, and Kenmore dryer models.

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Questions & Answers

For Whirlpool Dryer Heating Element (Part Number: OEM18024852)

1 Answer

Jessi, The jumper wire will go to the thermostat and will connect to the top terminal of the heating element.

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Bj for Model Number Kenmore Series 90 110.60922990

Hi. Repair person replaced the heating element with part# WP3387747. My dryer pigtail and wall outlet are 3 wire, not 4. (Dryer was working/spinning, but no heat). Since replacing the part, the breaker trips and there was black soot on one of the pigtail prongs that was not there before. Wall outlet was replaced and checks fine. There is continuity between the heater element terminals and the outer element housing vent--which doesn't sound correct? With the dryer unplugged and the timer set to off, there is also continuity between the terminals where the pigtail connects, between the line (black wire) and neutral, and line (black wire) and ground terminal when measured with a multi-meter. To me it sounds like a short was created when the heating element was replaced? Confirmation? Any ideas? Is there any difference in installation of the heating element for a 3 wire vs 4 wire dryer?

1 Answer

Bj, If the dryer cord had sooting then check to make sure that there is no loose connection as this would be the most likely cause for that type of situation. If you are testing continuity to chassis ground and getting continuity then this would not be correct and it would sound like there is either a wire grounded or the element is grounded.

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1 Answer

Maria, That video was to help you with getting into the unit. We do not have a video for changing the element on this model but you would have to go in through the front and that video would help with that.

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1 Answer

Maria, On this dryer, you will not be able to remove the heater from the back and will need to go from the front of the unit. Here is a video that should help with getting into the front of the unit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X39fV5jxxeI

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1 Answer

Jordan, The standard resistance for a heating element will be between 9 and 20 ohms on most dryers. For this one, it is actually between 7.8 and 11.8 ohms of resistance.

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Stuart for Model Number Kenmore Dryer 110.62942100

This dryer stopped heating and the start switch stopped working (that is, if you hold the switch on, the dryer runs, but if you release pressure, the dryer stops running. Both of these happened simultaneously, so I assume they're related. I haven't been able to figure out the problem. Here's what I've tested: Checked for continuity--all passed: thermal fuse thermal cutoff thermostat heating element start switch Checked the thermistor and it has resistance; when it is heated, the resistance decreases, so it seems okay. Checked the two relays in the control panel by swapping one for the other. Nothing changed; still no heat, and won't stay running without pressure on the start switch. I noticed some corrosion on one of the heating elements connecting wires, so I stripped the wire back, and at the point where the wire looked healthy, I wrapped tightly around the heater element terminal. It did not solve the problem. I'm at a loss as to what is causing this, and would appreciate some advice. Thanks.

1 Answer

Stuart, For this issue, the dryer motor would be the most likely cause. One line of power to the heating element will go through the motor and also switches the motor windings over so from start to run.

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1 Answer

Hello Ron, if the wiring terminals have seized to the heating element terminals, the wiring terminals would need to be cut off and replaced with part TJMA02875-1.

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1 Answer

Ralph P., You have a single element heater, if it works in high heat, it should work for low heat. I would first check the resistance of the thermistor, at room temperature is should read about 11.5-13.5 thousand ohms. At 100 degrees it should read 5.0-7.0 thousand ohms. If it is not in those ranges, replace the thermistor, the part number is WP8577274. If the thermistor is good, replace the main control, the part number is [8546219]

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1 Answer

Ted Tetzlaff, if you will turn the power off to the dryer and remove the front panel, you will see the element in the heater housing located on the right side of the dryer. The part number is WP3387747

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1 Answer

Blue, long dry times are usually due to poor air flow. Pull your dyer out away from the wall and check to see if the vent is collapsed behind the dryer. Also, turn the dryer on and check for air flow outside, there should be a noticeable amount of air going outside, if not, check for obstructions in the vent. If the venting is not the issue, empty the dryer and run it on a timed dry cycle, go outside and check the air temperature coming out of the vent, it should cycle between 120-160 degrees, if it does not get that hot, replace the operating thermister, WP8577274.

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